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Cement and paving I use colored paper superglued over wood spacer strips to make those areas flush with the track. I tried thick card stock but 3r wheel flanges have trouble operating freely. The spacers are glued toward the middle rail and the paper can flex next to the wheel flange. Layout is an experiment that's never done before. I am soldering 3 mfg. tracks together to achieve the objective. When the track is in place, I will match the street and siding and cover the edges toward the buildings shown below.

FENDER [10)

New layout bulk [4)

 

 

 

 

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To make road patches, you can cut and glue black construction paper scraps. Drag a silver pencil to highlight the repair and use a Sharpie marker for around the tar. Inspired by Don Smith's Industrial Models layout . As for the trackage, lots of Dremal tool work is required. Link - http://www.rrpicturearchives.n...;id=49925&Page=1

Something like this...

1136%20147

 

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Last edited by SIRT

I built the 36-inch truss bridges on my 12’-by-8’ layout more than twenty years ago from kits by Miami Valley Products. As I recall, the truss bridges were constructed of spruce wood that had been cut to I-beam cross-sections. They were assembled in the traditional manner – on waxed paper on top of full-size drawings. I cut the beams to length and angle with a razor saw, finished by hand with files, and glued together with yellow carpenter’s glue. Aluminum gussets were attached with epoxy. There is a two-span girder bridge between the truss bridges. They are strong but I keep trains off them when the layout is not in operation. Since then, I have scratch-built a similar truss bridge and a trestle entirely from basswood. I worked as a structural engineer and taught structural analysis for more than ten years.

MELGAR

MELGAR_2020_0115_05_B&A_HUDSON_606MELGAR_12X8_TRUSS_BRIDGES

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@RSJB18 posted:

I did some prints for my next project. I have a nice color inkjet printer in my office that does a great job. The images are on card stock from a 3D model. I'm only using one side to make a flat to go behind another building.

Bob

It will go on the wall behind this building. Might add a fence between them also.

 

Bob, 

Where do you obtain your graphics?  

Ron

 

Nothing fancy or tricky involved.  I left the skinny pillar as it comes and sanded the angle on the back of the fat pillar, Leaving the width of the face of it intact.  Lined stuff up, apply some MEK and get the walls stuck “enough” then traced some evergreen sheet I cut into strips and made some braces which I glued behind the wall to hold it.   Once all that set up, I filled in the back side with epoxy, since it was a bit more fragile of a joint than a 90 would be. 
E6668F14-5CAA-43C2-8F32-3CC436E01647

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Last edited by Boilermaker1

First..."Sunday Scenic Showcase" is the first place i go on Sunday morning to see what Alan and and you creative people have been up to...and since this week started with a house...here's a reproduction of an actual house i made for a client about 10 years ago...approximately O scale...mostly cardboard and some craft wood...the stucco, roof and concrete texture is a primer coat of safety tread floor paint finished with ordinary craft paint...the platform it's on was supposed to be dropped into a recess in a layout...

howard

www.littleglitterhouses.com

CalHouse

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@coach joe posted:

Jackiejr, Very interesting water "tower".  How did you construct it?

Hello Coach Joe    The water tank itself was a clear plastic display top for a die cast car I had purchased. Bought the water spout kit from a vender and attached a couple of tank access panels from some round plastic scrap pieces. The structure under the tank supposedly houses a boiler. A British railroad picture book inspired the build. Thanks for your interest.DSCN1129

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Last edited by jackiejr

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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