Sunday Scenic Showcase May 7, 2023

Continuing my work on a Korber kit......lots of windows!

Prior:

Then, toning down the brick color with some dry brushing......

Window placement is a great "watching the coronation" activity

I will leave the fire escapes till later.....they are very fragile and will save for when I'm ready to place on the layout in its final position....

Foundation work.

Have a great and safe Sunday, folks!

Peter

Very nice, Alan and Peter. I’m on the self-guided tour list of the NMRA Div 2 convention today. I was planting a lot of trees to prepare this week.

Keep up the good work Peter and enjoy building.

Anthony,

That is a beautiful scene. The trees and foliage  look great

Finished this

                                                         Go with the Coopers...

Nice work everyone! It's always fun to see what everyone is up to.

Anthony - Beautiful trackwork and scenery. Steve - The more I see your layout, the more impressed I am. The gate at American Dock Terminal is a nice detail.

On my end I've slowly been working on my hydrocal kit. A few weeks ago I finished the front:

This week, I tackled the sides and rear:

I still haven't decided how to treat the corrugated roof. Does anyone have a favorite technique for an old metal roof?

Once I finish the final exterior touches, I'll move on to the interior. I hope to make this my most detailed interior yet. Here's the Banta Modelworks shelf getting stocked. The cereal boxes are images of flattened boxes that were glued around a small piece of wood.

Have a great rest of your weekend, everyone!

Knickerbocker Transfer:

As you can see from the picture on the Korber kit box, the entire upper three stories are cantilevered off the first floor and supported by columns. Due to the size of the finished model ( 2 kits combined = 46") and the fact that it has to be somewhat movable, some sort of support structure or backbone was going to be needed.

I started out by attaching the rear of the assembled first floor to a 46" long piece of poplar that I ripped down on a table saw.

#4 wood screws were counter sunk though the front in the area where the column insert will be to secure the two pieces.

1/8" Masonite was screwed to the bottom of the popular strip. This will form the base of the model. The base will be removable to aid in track laying and detailing later.

Vertical uprights were added using "L" brackets. These will support the upper floor side walls when installed.

The completed 3 upper floors and side walls were attached to the uprights using 2 part epoxy. This was done after making sure everything was square and vertical.Once the epoxy dried the three piece first floor roof was instaled.Splice plates were added to the Plastruct angle to provide a larger area and more ridgid mounting surface to mount the lower columns.

Until next time, have a good week.

^^^ when I built that kit I ended up running screws down through the floor and into the columns to hold them on. Especially if you need to move it, that 1x1” area just isn’t enough glue surface to do the job. I can’t remember if I pre drilled the columns first, but I probably did to make sure I didn’t split em.

Alex,

That beagle is getting ready to leave your scene. He must have just seen a rabbit. Nice work

By the way.....this Korber kit is really an apartment building front. To keep my brain sharp I am listening to the Great Courses series, "The Secrets of Mental Math" and I learned that 1/2 plus 1/2 = 1.

I hope that I'm right...........we'll all know how it goes next week.....here is step one of the combination:

Have a great and safe Sunday, folks!

Peter

To Boilermaker1:

You mean like this?

Great minds think alike.

@Alex W posted:

I still haven't decided how to treat the corrugated roof. Does anyone have a favorite technique for an old metal roof?

You need:

Light grey (almost white) acrylic paint (or just mix a dot of black into a big blob of white)

Black chalk weathering powder

Raw Umber (or some dark brown) acrylic paint

Raw Sienna (or some other lightish, orangeish brown) OIL paint

Turpenoid (available at Michaels)

Paper towels

Brushes for both paints (whatever for acrylic, large and small for oil)

1. Thin out the light grey paint and paint the roof (this simulates oxidation of the galvanizing on the corrugated roof)

2. Once dry, brush on black chalk. It should settle into the troughs of the roof. Dont need to be heavy.

3. In a believable manner (google photos), blot on your dark brown acrylic toward the tops of the sheets. Make it blobby on purpose. If you paint the whole roof, then the rest of the effect becomes moot.

4. Once totally dry, use a small brush and add small amounts of your light orange-brown oil paint around the low side edges of the dark brown splotches. Could even use a toothpick if you want.  Imprecision is fine, and a little paint will go a long way.

5. Pour some turpenoid in a vessel (glass or ceramic is good but it wont eat plastic). Wet your large oil brush, and pat out the excess on the paper towels.  You want the brush wet but not dripping.  Now, drag your wet turpenoid brush down the roof, pulling the oil paint with you.  It will not touch any of the acrylic because its not the right solvent for it. This makes the rust "run" down the roof as lighter new rust.  You can repeat this over and over as much as you want until you get the color you want.  (you can even add more oil paint back in there if you pull away too much).  After each swipe, clean the brush before you re-dip in the turpenoid. You want to keep the brush clean so you're just thinning the roof off, rather than "painting" it.

6. You need to let the oil paint dry for about a week.  It will be handling safe the next day, but you need to make sure that all of the oil has dried out before clearcoating.  

@Boilermaker1 posted:

You need:

Light grey (almost white) acrylic paint (or just mix a dot of black into a big blob of white)

Black chalk weathering powder

Raw Umber (or some dark brown) acrylic paint

Raw Sienna (or some other lightish, orangeish brown) OIL paint

Turpenoid (available at Michaels)

Paper towels

Brushes for both paints (whatever for acrylic, large and small for oil)

1. Thin out the light grey paint and paint the roof (this simulates oxidation of the galvanizing on the corrugated roof)

2. Once dry, brush on black chalk. It should settle into the troughs of the roof. Dont need to be heavy.

3. In a believable manner (google photos), blot on your dark brown acrylic toward the tops of the sheets. Make it blobby on purpose. If you paint the whole roof, then the rest of the effect becomes moot.

4. Once totally dry, use a small brush and add small amounts of your light orange-brown oil paint around the low side edges of the dark brown splotches. Could even use a toothpick if you want.  Imprecision is fine, and a little paint will go a long way.

5. Pour some turpenoid in a vessel (glass or ceramic is good but it wont eat plastic). Wet your large oil brush, and pat out the excess on the paper towels.  You want the brush wet but not dripping.  Now, drag your wet turpenoid brush down the roof, pulling the oil paint with you.  It will not touch any of the acrylic because its not the right solvent for it. This makes the rust "run" down the roof as lighter new rust.  You can repeat this over and over as much as you want until you get the color you want.  (you can even add more oil paint back in there if you pull away too much).  After each swipe, clean the brush before you re-dip in the turpenoid. You want to keep the brush clean so you're just thinning the roof off, rather than "painting" it.

6. You need to let the oil paint dry for about a week.  It will be handling safe the next day, but you need to make sure that all of the oil has dried out before clearcoating.  

Exactly what I’m looking for - thank you! The effect looks great on your structures.