If you could do it over again...what would be the height of your train table ?? Thanks
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Same as it is now - 46" for the lowest of the three levels.
High enough to be able to sit on a stool or something under it without bumping your head. No hands and knees crawling. This is probably dependent on the layout owners height.
My table is 45" high. I can comfortably roll underneath with a mechanic's stool. If my layout wasn't in the basement with a low ceiling, I would consider going a little higher.
Same 42".
Mine is 50" , works for me. It can depend on your height. I am 6'2"
I'm building to 32". The ceiling height in the attic is less than 7' and this provides a better overall proportion. At 6'2" I can reach further across allowing for a wider table. And finally IMHO, lower height provides a better overall view of the layout.
My Granddaughter is 2 months old now. I've got to get my backside in gear and get this thing built. The lower height IMHO will make the layout more "child friendly".
Gilly
Probably around 42 inches, which is what it is now, although I would even build it higher if access/reach was not a problem. I don't like access hatches, and that precludes making things precisely as I might want them to be.
By the time I added the 1/2" ply and 1" foam, 42.5"
Linear along the 40' X 60' walls, depending on location the lowest is 36", highest is 54". I would do the same again because of what this configuration yields in operational value with three levels and five branch lines.
The 36" is a tad difficult to work under but doable. I use a furniture equipment roller and recess mounted a seat below it's frame with the bottom 1/4" off the floor.
Im 6'7", my original board I took to shows was 48", but my lovely wife mentioned
that the kids couldn't see the trains. So I dropped it to 36" and left my control table at 48". Kids can see the trains and I don't have to break my back working and controling trains.
I have the perfect layout! It ranges from 36" to 60". If you don't like the layout height just move yourself upward or downward until you're happy!
Yes, having different heights makes viewing much more interesting. Mine varies from 42" to 54".
I really think changing the heights is good for multiple reasons. After all, the world isn't flat even though the railroad owners wish everything would have been flat and straight.
Current layout is mostly 42" which 25 years ago was considered too high by the so-called experts. If i were to do it over it would be at least 48" and maybe 52" making it easier to view the trains almost at eye level. Remember as kids when viewing the carpet central how we'd lie on the floor to get an eye level view of the trains? Maybe we were onto something then that many of us have since forgotten. As far as young kids being able to see things - that's what they make stools for; plus kids do grow, and i've not seen any adjustable height layouts!
jackson
remember, I have a moveable layout that I take to shows.
stools are not reddly accessable for youngsters. I've lowered the board to 36" to make it easier for their viewing so we can create interest in the younger generation to keep this hobby going and get the kids out from behind those Iphones and computers.
46. I can easily move around under it on a stool with wheels, and parents of little guests have to pick them up to see. Helps manage their hands.
my father-in-law (before he died last year in July)
used to have kids over at Christmas time to view his 10
train operation. Before they went into the cellar he told
the kids very matter of factly "put your hands in your pockets
and leave them there". he didn't have any trouble with kids grabbing stuff
Current layout is mostly 42" which 25 years ago was considered too high by the so-called experts. If i were to do it over it would be at least 48" and maybe 52" making it easier to view the trains almost at eye level. Remember as kids when viewing the carpet central how we'd lie on the floor to get an eye level view of the trains? Maybe we were onto something then that many of us have since forgotten. As far as young kids being able to see things - that's what they make stools for; plus kids do grow, and i've not seen any adjustable height layouts!
jackson
I really think changing the heights is good for multiple reasons. After all, the world isn't flat even though the railroad owners wish everything would have been flat and straight. John Robert
John, come to eastern North Dakota. It's the international standard for flat! ;-)
But seriously, wouldn't the table height be influenced by how many level changes were included in the layout? If so, does one start the table height at a level to allow the highest level at eye height? I suppose there can't possibly be a standard that suits everyone...
watched a toy train video once and the commentator
said
"build what you like and buy what you like"
and I kind of agree with him, after all its your railroad
and you are the owner.
choo choo
I really think changing the heights is good for multiple reasons. After all, the world isn't flat even though the railroad owners wish everything would have been flat and straight. John Robert
John, come to eastern North Dakota. It's the international standard for flat! ;-)
But seriously, wouldn't the table height be influenced by how many level changes were included in the layout? If so, does one start the table height at a level to allow the highest level at eye height? I suppose there can't possibly be a standard that suits everyone...
Table high from basement floor 40", I would not change the height. Jim Barrett in the Backshop article, "Building a Layout: Making Hinged Sections", Run 270, O Gauge Railroading answered my question on building these hinged sections. I am retrofitting certain locations on the layout for walk in entry no more crawling below the layout during construction/operation phase. I recommend that Forum members building layouts should use the hinged entry sections if possible, it will save your knees.
Table deck heights, 36" or higher, provide a better working height for installing switch motors, layout wiring and troubleshooting. I am also considering the purchase of a padded automotive creeper with a head rest.
I still can't believe after all this time and great advice that's been written through the years that railroad designers/builders put a duck-under into plans.
Sometimes you've just gotta do what you gotta do - now stop being so judgmental and believe it.
jackson
I'
m sticking with saving on the knees and back...not to mention continuously making the same mistake over and over.
jackson
"Duckunders" are okay when one is younger but with age it becomes a painful process for many including me. Thus the liftouts, hinged lift bridges, swing outs and hinged drop sections. A drop section has extended my ability to even have a layout.
"judgemental" I reckon so.
Attachments
Agree that "duckunders" are painful, and at my age just crawling under to repair anything is painful; BUT accepting that age old rule of model railroading called "givens and druthers" sometimes people have no choice based on what they want to build, space available, skill level, tools available, etc., etc. than to have a "duckunder". While i wouldn't build a model railroad with one, i don't pretend to know each and every person's circumstances, interests and limitations to be so judgmental. That is all i meant.
jackson
32" because I have short people who need to be able to see. As it is one of them will still need a step stool.
39 inches If I could do it over again. It would be around 50 inches.
Platform level at 50 inches. Framing at 45 and 1/2 inches for easy duck under. I can sit on a stool or stand and follow trains around. My switches are all manual.
I BASED THE HEIGHT ON STACKING TWO 18 GALLON RUBBERMAID BUCKETS UNDERNEATH FOR STORAGE PURPOSES. 33" SUPPORT CLEARANCE AND 39" LAYOUT HEIGHT. A LITTLE LOW BUT MAKES REACHING SCENERY EASIER. I AM 6' 2" TALL, NEXT TIME I'LL MAKE IT 45" TO 50".
I just checked my table height and it is 39 3/4".I have no idea why I came up with that measurement but I did. I am 5'6" tall, I go and let the dog out this way with out my leg most of the time. All I do know is I'm happy with the height I chose. So It would all depend on your height I guess. So I would determine that first then run with it. Remember its a hobby and don't beet yourself up over it.
Agree that "duckunders" are painful, and at my age just crawling under to repair anything is painful; BUT accepting that age old rule of model railroading called "givens and druthers" sometimes people have no choice based on what they want to build, space available, skill level, tools available, etc., etc. than to have a "duckunder". While i wouldn't build a model railroad with one, i don't pretend to know each and every person's circumstances, interests and limitations to be so judgmental. That is all i meant.
jackson
My benchwork is 48 inches. The roadbed when mounted places the track at about 50 inches. I prefer to have the track at about eye level. My layout sections are modular and are about 18 inches deep maximum so reaching the track is never a problem.