Taping Wires to Wood: Recommendations Wanted

Gorilla Tape might hold long enough till you get it permanently secured.

Concrete/Rough surface (green) tape.

I’ve used a 3M product. Over time the adhesive may give way. But I still have some on my house after 20 years that held up Christmas lights. There are mounting holes for screws if you want them permanent. After you attach the mount. The tie just passes through a slot.

I would use a cable clamp like this:

You only need to screw down the flat end and leave the other end hanging free so you can slip in additional wires.  I would use the 1/2" or 3/4" sizes.  Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Amazon all carry them.

Do a search for "Plastic cable clamps" for these and other fancier options.  

Bob

I use pipe hangers. Like Bob said above, you could leave one screw out. This way you could turn the clamp slightly and slip the wire in place.

I really like these Multi-cable clips in areas where there are a lot of wire/cables. Locking and unlocking the retention strap is a snap.  I prefer attaching them to the bench frame with screws.

I also like that these have the ability to group by similar wire types.

They are available in the electrical section of Home Improvement stores and online.

I used these. They hold many wires and are easy to add more.

This Item

Gardner BenderMulti-Cable Staples (20-Pack)

(135)

$1081

+

Oops. Steve got in ahead of me.

When I’m running wires under the table for temporary routings I just shoot a staple into the table. Than I use a scrap piece of wire or trash bag twist tie as a hanger bundle. Once I’m done wiring and routing I can then use my cable clamps for my final placement.

Ty- wraps with a mounting hole are a good cheap temporary solution or permanent. Cost around $8.00 per hundred.  I have mostly used the pipe straps as shown above (pipe hangars) and the cable clamps. Both of those are also cheap and very easy to use.

You can drill 1" holes through wood framing, works well for a lot of wires, IMO, Mike CT.   I also used cable tray.

Gaffer's tape works great and is readily available on the river site.

How could so many of us respond without reading George's original post in detail?

He said "temporary".

Congratulations to @Farmall-Joe, @Lehigh74, @Rich Wiemann, and @BradFish1 for correctly reading the post and providing excellent suggestions in response.

And BTW to all others too, in spite of not reading the post carefully, for the great suggestions in the good spirit they were intended.

Both kinds are good recommendations and viable approaches, whether temporary or more permanent.

Mike

@G3750 posted:

What are your recommendations for a tape to fasten wire(s) to wood, either temporarily or permanently?

George

What part didn't we read carefully?

@John H posted:

What part didn't we read carefully?

It was changed after I commented.

Mike

Um, isn't pretty much everything temporary...

I drilled holes for the wires.  In my case, I drilled smaller holes and ran one wire (or bundle for switches) through each beam, that way I could label them on the beam for easy ID later.

@John H posted:

What part didn't we read carefully?

Well, George did specifically ask about tape.

But I have used just about all the examples sited except tape.  The one that SteveH suggested is excellent to keep things organized while you add wires as you make progress and to remove wires if you change things around.

@G3750 posted:

What are your recommendations for a tape to fasten wire(s) to wood, either temporarily or permanently?

@Farmall-Joe posted:

Gorilla Tape might hold long enough till you get it permanently secured.

Black Gorilla Tape will  fasten wire(s) to wood, either temporarily or permanently.

@SteveH posted:

Um, isn't pretty much everything temporary...

Or to quote Red Green, "this is only temporary, unless it works".

i have some wires which have poor accessibility like under elevated tracks.  You cannot see the underside.  I make the wiring connections via barrier strips before the final install then hold the wires and barrier strips in place with 3M Velcro.   The  wiring is hidden but accessible for modification or repair.

I am using an arrow stapler and arrow insulated staples, the work goes very fast and very easy with a pair of pliers to pull staples. staples are very inexpensive

kevin

@Mike CT posted:

You can drill 1" holes through wood framing, works well for a lot of wires, IMO, Mike CT.   I also used cable tray.

Agreed.  I've found 1"is best.  I started with smaller holes years ago and always ended up drilling a lot more holes.  My new layout has an abundance of 1" holes and they are serving me well.

When I bought my house in 1988, just about every room had a drop ceiling in it. I removed them all, but having been raised by two parents who grew up in the Great Depression, I saved all the hooks that screwed into the ceiling and held the hanger wire. These readily screw into soft pine benchwork, and hold multiple wires that are readily removed if need be. If they won't go in completely by hand, a screwdriver across the two verticals of the hook allow it to be turned in as far as needed. When I need to trace a wire during troubleshooting, the ability to slide the loose wires back and forth is a godsend. The last thing I want are tight cable ties. Troubleshooting is frustrating enough as it is.

If requested, I'll take and post a photo of a hanger.

Shower curtain rings attached to underside of layout with screw eyes.

Bob

My experience is all of the above.  IMHO these is no one answer.  On my layout I've used many of the above recommendations dependent on the situation.  I say, routing wiring through drilled holes is my main method.  But I've employed hangers, stapling, hooks, Velcro, contact cement for ribbons, liquid rubber, etc.  I've never used tape on wood other than the 3M Velcro, it sticks.   I use a tape labeler for my control panels painted stainless surface.  The labels are peelable.  Labeling on wood I do using a pen.

My wiring interconnects are with barrier strips and Fahnestock clips for the really small gauge.  Printed Circuit boards I attach with screws and standoffs.  Arrays of PC boards which I use to provide logic control for scenes I mount on plywood.  I mount barrier strips on the plywood edge for all the I/O.   I screw these plywood logic assemblies to the underside of the layout.  Socketed relays I screw to the table underside.