I'm in the process of rewiring my layout. I'm using a MRC pure power dual transformer with Legacy, TMCC and DCS command control. The layout is 16 ft long and 4 ft wide. I found a bus bar on Amazon that has 8 outputs (of course I'd need two for multiple loops of track) would this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d...FPW259YSFR&psc=1
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banjoflyer posted:That would work, You have about 40' of track per loop. 4 power drops (one every 10') would be enough most likely so you could shop for a smaller terminal block if desired.
If you're running Legacy and DCS engines (expensive) I'd see about adding some railings of some sort around the layout so one of your trains doesn't take a header into the concrete floor.
Mark
Thank you. Yes, I should put a railing on the edge.
I use just terminal strips and make however many of them common with the shorting strips (just cut off as many as you want terminals connected together). And this way you can use heavier feed wires (the ones shown in your link are a bit light).
cjack posted:I use just terminal strips and make however many of them common with the shorting strips (just cut off as many as you want terminals connected together). And this way you can use heavier feed wires (the ones shown in your link are a bit light).
I'll just use those, they look to be better than the one I was looking at. Would 16 gauge wire work well or should I go with 14?
I wouldn't chance it. Most of those have very thin wire connecting the terminals; certainly not big enough for track power. I have a couple, but only used for Fastrack switch power and some leds in houses. Get a regular terminal strip and use jumper bars to make it a bus bar.
I'd use 14 for any longish length of wire run. Maybe 16 or 18 for a foot length. By the way, much of the red/black "speaker" wire you find on line is copper clad aluminum. It has a lower amperage per foot rating by about one gauge step. Sometimes it's hard to tell what they are selling, but just use a generous gauge like 14, and it'll be fine.
John H posted:I wouldn't chance it. Most of those have very thin wire connecting the terminals; certainly not big enough for track power. I have a couple, but only used for Fastrack switch power and some leds in houses. Get a regular terminal strip and use jumper bars to make it a bus bar.
Would they be good for accessory power? I'd use 22 gauge wire there at 14v. I'm going to use the one that Cjack showed me for my track power.
cjack posted:I'd use 14 for any longish length of wire run. Maybe 16 or 18 for a foot length. By the way, much of the red/black "speaker" wire you find on line is copper clad aluminum. It has a lower amperage per foot rating by about one gauge step. Sometimes it's hard to tell what they are selling, but just use a generous gauge like 14, and it'll be fine.
Thank you.
I run DCS with a Z4000. I use 10 Gauge wire as a BUSS and join the wire in 4 separate locations with these connectors. My layout is 15 x 33.
Have Fun
Ron
Trainlover9943 posted:John H posted:I wouldn't chance it. Most of those have very thin wire connecting the terminals; certainly not big enough for track power. I have a couple, but only used for Fastrack switch power and some leds in houses. Get a regular terminal strip and use jumper bars to make it a bus bar.
Would they be good for accessory power? I'd use 22 gauge wire there at 14v. I'm going to use the one that Cjack showed me for my track power.
It depends on the accessory. For some it would be fine others, not so great, still others; a meltdown.
If wiring gets hot, it's too small. If motors get hot, wires just warm, it might be too small. It may take a bit too as its a rising thermal build up that you watch for more than just a warmth. It may take 5 seconds or an hour...?
Adriatic posted:Trainlover9943 posted:John H posted:I wouldn't chance it. Most of those have very thin wire connecting the terminals; certainly not big enough for track power. I have a couple, but only used for Fastrack switch power and some leds in houses. Get a regular terminal strip and use jumper bars to make it a bus bar.
Would they be good for accessory power? I'd use 22 gauge wire there at 14v. I'm going to use the one that Cjack showed me for my track power.
It depends on the accessory. For some it would be fine others, not so great, still others; a meltdown.
If wiring gets hot, it's too small. If motors get hot, wires just warm, it might be too small. It may take a bit too as its a rising thermal build up that you watch for more than just a warmth. It may take 5 seconds or an hour...?
Most of my accessories are just lighted buildings nothing fancy. I only have one operating accessory a mth transfer dock. Which I will eventually convert to ERR. I also have a MTH passenger station that I will add smoke units to.
Ron045 posted:I run DCS with a Z4000. I use 10 Gauge wire as a BUSS and join the wire in 4 separate locations with these connectors. My layout is 15 x 33.
Have Fun
Ron
Would 10 gauge be overkill for my layout? @Ron045 or should I go with my original idea of 14 gauge.
Trainlover9943 posted:Ron045 posted:Would 10 gauge be overkill for my layout? @Ron045 or should I go with my original idea of 14 gauge.
I guess it depends on if you are doing STAR wiring or a BUSS with feeders. Alan Arnold told me about the BUSS method and recommended 12 gauge. I went extra and did 10.
Ron
Ron045 posted:Trainlover9943 posted:Ron045 posted:Would 10 gauge be overkill for my layout? @Ron045 or should I go with my original idea of 14 gauge.
I guess it depends on if you are doing STAR wiring or a BUSS with feeders. Alan Arnold told me about the BUSS method and recommended 12 gauge. I went extra and did 10.
Ron
I was going to do buss with feeders. I'll go with the 10.
When connecting the wires to the track, should I solder the wires or use spade connectors?
What kind of track?
cjack posted:What kind of track?
Lionel fastrack.
I use the spade connectors. I make sure they are very tight, and pinch they down a tiny bit before installing them.
cjack posted:I use the spade connectors. I make sure they are very tight, and pinch they down a tiny bit before installing them.
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d...auge+spade+connector
cjack posted:
Thanks. They have any for 10 gauge wire?
That would be way over kill. Use 16 or 14 ga or wire that will fit into the connector crimp and run it less than 2 feet into a connector block. Then you can run 12 ga to the transformer. It’s important to use multiple feed wires along a particular loop than using a wire gauge that is difficult to handle or plug in under the track. Just make your smaller, easy to handle, wire under the track short to the connector block where you will go on to a heavier gauge.
cjack posted:That would be way over kill. Use 16 or 14 ga or wire that will fit into the connector crimp and run it less than 2 feet into a connector block. Then you can run 12 ga to the transformer. It’s important to use multiple feed wires along a particular loop than using a wire gauge that is difficult to handle or plug in under the track. Just make your smaller, easy to handle, wire under the track short to the connector block where you will go on to a heavier gauge.
Alright, I'll do that.
Are these the same size? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d...e&psc=1&th=1 I'd get the 14 gauge size. I'd get free shipping if I got these ones.
No. They have to say .110, .125 or 1/8 inch somewhere in the listing. That’s the width of the spade. I think the .110 are the closest to what Lionel uses.
Do you have a terminal track with the wire that Lionel supplies with it. That’s the skinny spade you should use.
cjack posted:No. They have to say .110, .125 or 1/8 inch somewhere in the listing. That’s the width of the spade. I think the .110 are the closest to what Lionel uses.
Do you have a terminal track with the wire that Lionel supplies with it. That’s the skinny spade you should use.
Yes, I do have a terminal track. Thanks. I'll get the first set you showed me. Thanks for the help.
I have found that they need to be repinched if used more than once.
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