Tinplate cleaning and polishing

Try a spray of pledge furniture polish (yellow can) and then brush it around with a good 2" paint brush. until it dries off. Then polish with a soft cloth. The brush will pick up the crud and dirt and leave a slight haze.The soft cloth will pick that up and leave a nice shine.

-Pat Rolland

Try cleaning like Pat suggests and see what happens. If not enough shine comes back then try a little automotive polishing or rubbing compound on the paint on the inside of a roof for a test. The MTH paint should be robust enough to take a little polishing to buff it out.

Polishing compound is finer grit and be sure to use a clean soft rag like an old cotton t-shirt. Then clean with a little light soap and water.

The trick with any type of wax or cleaner is cleaning into all the corners, nooks, cracks, etc, and getting all the cleaner out.

 

I have been experimenting with Zymol polish.

So far so good.

Since they make quite a few products, here is a link to show the product.

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_cleaner-wax-zymol_7110952-p?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-National-_-Keywordless--StoreKeywordless--Ad#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=national&utm_content=keywordless--storekeywordless--ad

For over thirty-five years I used nothing but "Turtle Wax". It has very low abrasive content. Then I found, Mothers "California Gold" Carnauba Cleaner Wax to be much better. I'd stay away from using rubbing compounds of any kind and regular tooth brushes. They leave tiny minute scratches which do show. Enjoy yourself, take it slow and easy. Use the softest rags you can find and plenty of Q-Tips.

Thanks guys for the info. I will try some of your ideas and take my time. Frank

Just another variation on the same theme - I usually use Meguiar's automotive cleaner wax if Pledge or Endust doesn't do it. You need to be a bit careful with any litho or markings - the stuff is mildly abrasive. It will damage delicate lettering like the markings on a Lionel 516 Coal Train hopper if you get over-enthusiastic. I also use polishing compound, which is less abrasive than rubbing compound, on really stubborn cases, but that is the last resort before deciding to restore. 

I never use pledge as it leaves a residue on the paint. I know a lot of folks here like it though, but I would make it a last resort option. Auto wax is a cleaner and protectant made for painted metal surfaces. I'm with Pappy, I use turtle wax liquid as it is the least abrasive. You need to be extra cautious and not rub hard or too long that you rub the paint off the edges and high details. Use the least amount of wax possible. I've seen so many pieces ruined by aggressive cleaning that removed the paint along edges, stamped details such as rivets or vents. As someone posted be sure to remove all remnants of the wax. If its down in crevices and seams you can use a very soft toothbrush to coax it out. Q-tips help a lot and I use tons of them. Use as soft of a cotton cloth as you can find to both apply and remove the wax.

If we are talking about wax and not rubbing the paint finish out...

Renaissance Wax is the best wax I've used. Period. Museum quality.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

http://www.amazon.com/Picreato...-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

Turtle Wax Color Back.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Turt...sh-Restorer/16767855

I think you should post this on the Standard Gauge Yahoo list for the best answers.

The car is new in that modern paints were used. I would not use anything abrasive or anything with wax. Abrasive will micro-scratch and wax will eventually yellow. The wax may stay on this car 10 or 20 years.

 

Clean with a mild soap and water solution and use a polish.

 

Very little is ever said about MTH products on the STG Yahoo group.

I'd call MTH and ask.  

 

Counted six "wax" recommendations here, but if it's a bad idea, and it just may be, there will be more harm done than good accomplished.

You could just leave them as is and let them develop a patina or even let them sit outside in the rain until they get crusty and look like "real" tinplate trains .  Sorry, I couldn't resist.  I'm like you, I like my trains to looks as nice as possible too.

 

We now return you to your regularly scheduled original post.

 

 

John.

FYI: The Renaissance Wax I posted about above is used by museums on priceless artifacts.

Yes, polishing compound is a micro-abrasive but it does actually increase the gloss (you have to think on a microscopic level there).
Plus not all waxes yellow, which is why museums use the specially formulated Renaissance Wax.

There's quite a bit of misinformation on this post.
Do the proper research