Hi everyone!... I am new to the hobby & see a lot of Tinplate floating around various sites- My question: is an original blue/red comet or other set of tinplate worth more restored (Properly painted) or as is/ By that I mean old scratched, worn but worth a good cleanup...Is there a place or person on the forum that is known on the forum that does restoration & lives on Long Island area?- Also what are everyone`s thoughts regarding value/collecting vs. restoring & enjoying? What about parts needed in the situation with MTH closing as well...Should I just buy a clean reissue & pay the high price? Any info is appreciated? Thanks!- Sal.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I guess you have to consider what it costs to buy an old set in poor condition and then have it restored, as it sounds like you will not be doing the restoration yourself and then compare that cost to what you can buy a clean re-issue.
If you are paying someone else to do your work, you might be further ahead by simply buying a re-issue.
However, in going with the re-issue you have to consider what type of motor it has in it. I have heard stories of some of the modern motors burning out their electronics and it being difficult to replace the electronics and getting the engines running again.
I would say that if you having someone else restore a set for you, don't expect it to be a moneymaker when selling it.
Those are just my thoughts and I suspect that others may have different opinions.
Well said...I like the look of the Blue Comet/Red Comet 7 some of the O gauge 293E stuff but my worries are there will be limited parts & problems ahead- Maybe in a few years if someoneone like an Atlas or Bachmann or Lionel take over maybe they can get the new MTH going ( I can only dream) & see what the market is in 3-5 yrs. from now...Sticking with my Lionel for now...Thanks!
I think the answer depends on your objectives and personal preferences. Here are some scenarios: Attractive display piece, with no concern about collectability or future value - buy a reproduction. Nostalgic runner - buy a solid old copy and clean it up. Shiny runner - buy an older reissue with conventional innards. Runner with all the "bells and whistles" - not much choice but to go with a new reproduction. Display piece with collector value - hold out until you can find a nice original; IMO, the vast majority of tinplate reproductions have no collector upside.
Welcome to the tinplate addiction. We have a 12-step program, but all of the steps involve searching for, buying, cleaning/restoring, and running trains.
Sal: ALL good choices! :-)
I have no experience with restoration of old tinplate.
I was bitten by the shiney shiney MTH reproductions in Traditional conventional control. DC can motors and basic "E" units. Controlled by a basic AC transformer. No specialty circuit boards. If I want smoke I can add an aftermarket smoke unit directly track powered. If I want sound I can add a sound package separately wired to track power. Same deal with lights.
Bottom line is...I can replace an "E" unit. I can replace a DC can motor. Nothing proprietary, or exclusive to a name brand.
A shelf queen because of no spare parts or discontinued proprietary circuit boards is worth less than an engine that can be easily repaired by simple independently wired and powered parts.
Much more traditional.
Just don't fall for the "worth more" collecting as an investment. Put your investment money elsewhere. Toy trains are a HOBBY with a proven track record of more loss than investment gain.
Either way it's a big hobby with many facets. Whatever you decide you like.... Its your railroad.
Best Regards.
If you make money speculating, you'd be one of few. Especially if you started factoring time, shipping, and storage as a business should.
You should check out the guides to TCA grading. Not a price list; but instructions on grading for collecting trains (tin and postwar guides both).
To me some pretty C-8+ that doesn't run is useless, to some folk it's a top shelf piece.
Big dollar collecting is more about originality and preservation. Rebuilding and restoring are frowned on and reclassifies the piece.
I'd suggest you run something new and something old asap. The motors are two different worlds in performance styles.
If you are not into fixing the mechanical workings you can buy good running vintage trains at some pretty good prices. Removing paint and repainting old Tinplate is pretty easy to to do your self. The joy of bringing some old Tinplate back to life is very rewarding. All these photos show restored and repainted Tinplate and even the Plasticville Northport, LI Switching Tower is repainted. The Locos are Lionel 259E's.
There used to be a O Gauge Train show every couple of months??? in the Bingo Hall in Farmingvile...someone there could help you, But you might have to wait until after the Virus goes away. In the mean time pick up a tinplate beat up car and try restoring it....
Attachments
Don't expect any restored tinplate to have market value greater than a TCA rated 'Good' piece (which is one with a bunch of scars on it). Factor in your time and materials, and the cost of the hulk you are restoring, then decide (as suggested above), your reason for doing it. I have done some full up restorations of basket cases, and it never makes economic sense, but I have gotten satisfaction and fun out of 'bringing back the dead'. On another forum is a guy who is taking a REALLY rusty 381 E state set and restoring. So much rust that he had to go through several stages of derusting/grinding/sanding/priming/painting to get back to a good surface finish. It will be beautiful when done, and he likes to do it. Unlikely that it will be worth more that his costs and his labor at $1/hr rate.
Jim
Personally, as a SGMA member I find the synchronized smoke puffing and chugging sounds along with the bells, whistles and horns available on shiny new tinplate trains to be very exciting. To me, I find old unrestored tinplate to generally be boring and uninteresting. To the right person, it maybe much more valuable but I don't buy trains for their "investment" value, rather I buy them for their "play" value. So decide what you want, i.e., play value or investment value or maybe some combination of both, and take the plunge. Lastly, when the virus threat passes and train shows return, attend one where SGMA has set up one of their famous Standard Gauge Modular layouts and join in the fun by bring and running one of your tinplate trains on the SGMA layout.
Bob Nelson
I love my tinplate new and shiny, colorful and operational. I have absolute joy cracking open a Brand new $2000 Rolls Royce Blue Lionel Classics Presidential set and whizzing it on my tracks and then ogle at it on the shelf before it gets deployed again; this time for filming as it gets posted on the standard gauge forum and in my you tube library for the world to watch.
I admire and revel in the history of tinplate trains and in the preservation of originals in some of my friend’s collections but these are pristine, like new with a shiny patina to them from the 20s. I admire those collections. No interest whatsoever in rust buckets or scarred mongrels that parade as pre-war originals. Boooooring for this collector-player but I am respectful of each hobbyist for what their passion is.
I am blessed to have just about every iconic set there ever was re-issued and despite doubts, will hold their own in the future. I am an avid supporter of restorations and repaints of tired tinplate and have the most talented auto body shop painter and restorer helping me create one- off, bespoke custom variations of past iconic train sets. Fun is the only signature to my hobby.
Ash