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Having worked on job sites doing both residential and industrial wiring, I was shocked at how much longer it took to connect those small wires and how fragile they were.  I have found that making connections with 18 gauge wire is so much easier and more reliable that I splice 18 gauge wire to all signals and building lights on the layout.  

 

I used to have problems with wires breaking at the joint so when I splice the 18 gauge wire to the small wires, I fold the small wire back about 3/4 inch and then tape the joint. This provides a strain relief.  I have never had this type of splice fail.

 

It seems like a lot of work but it can be done at the workbench quickly then the under the table connection are a breeze using 3M "suitcase" insulation displacement connectors.

 

Good luck and happy railroading,

Don

A couple of thing I've done. 

(1.) Strip the very small lead twice or three times the length needed, then double, or triple over, the bare wire twisting to one piece. 

(2.) Tin (Solder) the small wires, which adds a good bit of material before applying a mechanical connector.

(3.) I've use Ideal small tan connectors, (twist nuts 71B). Click on the underlined phrase to link. 

71B connectors used with several DZ 1000 switch machines and push buttons.

 

Last edited by Mike CT

Thanks for the advice!

 

I was leaning towards soldering an 18ga or 20ga stub to the leads and then using the Gardner Bender 10-001 small gray wire nuts from that to the feeders, but your method, Mike, is a bit simpler.  Makes sense.

 

Trying to keep the connections as "low profile" as possible since this time around is for a Xmas floor installation, which will be camouflage-challenging enough. 

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