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When you come across conflicting wire color that is where colored electrical tape comes into play.  Simply tape the offending color with tape to designate which color it is intended to be.  Always color tape BOTH ends of a re-coded colored wire.

 

It's the same way we treat house wiring like when we black tape the white wire.

 

In aircraft work we used a nomenclature wheel to ID each wire with a part number.  Dial in the part number and pull the wire through it to have the number stamped on the insulation all along it's length.   That way no matter where you poked into the bundle you knew EXACTLY which wire was which.

It's a job that has to be done. But sometimes mix it up a bit by doing some other jobs on the layout. Great tip on the music/radio it really does help.

 

I guess it helps in a way that I don't have instant access to Lionel/MTH components at a

LHS due to being in the UK. The does mean I have to plan a bit more in advance and pick 

items up while on a trip to the States or mail order. 

Friend hired a layout electrician to do his and that just about broke the bank.  It takes next-to-forever and the hourly rate for the experts ain't cheeeep.
 
Makes me feel better about the days I spend under the bench as a DIY project.  The radio suggestion from you-all works great! 
 
So is having the "away time".  oh oh .. maybe I shouldn't have mentioned that part ...
 
Originally Posted by MilwRdPaul:

No matter how I try to make it simple, wiring is the worst part of having a layout. I know it's necessary, but I think I would hire an electrician if I ever had to do it all over again! Everything else about model trains is total enjoyment for me.

 

I've written a lot about the wiring on my PRR Panhandle.  And the other posters have provided many, many good ideas (color coding wires, labeling, use of conduits, wire wraps, etc.). 

 

I would add the following suggestions:

  1. Have a spreadsheet that identifies every wire with a number.
  2. Have a diagram that shows your power distribution components.
  3. Keep these up to date.  You will need them later.

Here's my diagram.

 

20091116_Panel

 

And here's the Eastern Power Distribution Panel (indicated as wires heading to Blocks 2, 3, 6 & 8, but not shown in the diagram above).

 

EasternPanel_WeirtonJunctionWiringW

 

George

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  • 20091116_Panel
  • EasternPanel_WeirtonJunctionWiringW

Software for making wiring diagrams

 

I use Microsoft Visio for making all my diagrams. See diagrams.

 

The attachments are examples of a "route selection" panel that I have built for my concept layout.  The colored pushbuttons are miniature momentary action pushbuttons that select a route by activating certain turnouts.

 

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Last edited by pro hobby
Originally Posted by Rod Stewart:

G3750;

I really like the look of this diagram:

Mind sharing how you made it? What software?

20091116_Panel

 

Thanks,

Rod

This could easily be an AutoCAD drawing. Once you create a piece, like the (terminal block), it can easily be duplicated, relocated, or rotated. Also once a part is drawn it can be saved to a file and imported later to another drawing.   It is a well done drawing even with AutoCAD.  You should see some of the garbage that are considered  "for bid" or "for Construction" drawings. IMO.    You would think that Lionel would say "at a boy!!!"   Thanks GeorgeMike   

Last edited by Mike CT
Originally Posted by Passenger Train Collector:

To me, it is mind over matter. Has to be done whether you like to do it or not. But there are tools that make the job much easier. I agree with Wood, a good creeper is one of the best things you can do for your back. I discovered a splicing device that makes connecting the feeder wires to the trunk lines very easy and painless.

 

I would also break this task up. Do something else on the layout before you go back to the wiring. Hope this helps and by all means, get a CREEPER.

Can you share what device you use to splice the wires?

 

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Rod Stewart:

G3750;

I really like the look of this diagram:

Mind sharing how you made it? What software?

20091116_Panel

 

Thanks,

Rod

Rod,

Thank you for the kind words.  Like pro hobby, I use Microsoft Visio for all my drawings.  That, and a generous helping of obessive-compulsive disorder.    Frankly, I think Visio is worth the money.  Try to find an older version if you can.

 

Also, there is a shareware / freeware product called Dia that functions like Visio.  It is a bit more difficult to use (or maybe I am set in my ways).   You can get Dia at:

 

https://wiki.gnome.org/action/show/Apps/Dia?action=show&redirect=Dia

 

I gave an MRR Useful Documents clinic in Pittsburgh (NMRA Mid-Continent Region Division 2' Jamboree) with some drawing examples back in 2009.  I will try to find that tonight and send it to you (email in profile).

 

George

Originally Posted by Mike CT:
 

This could easily be an AutoCAD drawing. Once you create a piece, like the (terminal block), it can easily be duplicated, relocated, or rotated. Also once a part is drawn it can be saved to a file and imported later to another drawing.   It is a well done drawing even with AutoCAD.  You should see some of the garbage that are considered  "for bid" or "for Construction" drawings. IMO.    You would think that Lionel would say "at a boy!!!"   Thanks GeorgeMike   

I've had a lot of practice creating systems diagrams for proposals, as-built documents, etc.  And I also keep drawings of terminal blocks, fuse blocks, switch machines, and components for re-use;  saves a lot of work. 

 

But getting praise from someone who does such beautiful wiring work, I am truly flattered.  You are too kind, Mike. 

George

Originally Posted by G3750:
Originally Posted by Mike CT:
 

This could easily be an AutoCAD drawing. Once you create a piece, like the (terminal block), it can easily be duplicated, relocated, or rotated. Also once a part is drawn it can be saved to a file and imported later to another drawing.   It is a well done drawing even with AutoCAD.  You should see some of the garbage that are considered  "for bid" or "for Construction" drawings. IMO.    You would think that Lionel would say "at a boy!!!"   Thanks GeorgeMike   

I've had a lot of practice creating systems diagrams for proposals, as-built documents, etc.  And I also keep drawings of terminal blocks, fuse blocks, switch machines, and components for re-use;  saves a lot of work. 

 

But getting praise from someone who does such beautiful wiring work, I am truly flattered.  You are too kind, Mike. 

George

 You're welcome, Mike CT

Be forewarn!!!! Plan for the unknown?

 

The water company will make me rewire my layout that I had been thinking about for some time to allow for conventional and DCS on the two loops. I currently have two loops and the use three outputs from the TIU box, (F1, F2 and V2 set at a fixed voltage). Works great for all DSC but want to add the option for conventional running. I will wire one complete loop to Variable 1 and the other loop two Variable 2. 

 

The water company has to change out the water meter (every 10 years or so?) The finished paneled walls were up when I moved in so I had made a gap to reach the water shut off if needed, now, I'm not sure if when the bridges and wiring are moved if there will be enough remove to get to the meter.  I may even need to take our the paneled box the water meter sits in. 

Oh, well, the layout was running so good!

 

Maybe I can make my wiring a little neater! (Yeah Right, like that will happen!) But that is the plan.

 

Diesel Dan

 

The water meter is enclosed just below the TIU and behind the bridges.

005

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  • 005

I might as well add my 2 cents' worth to the list.  I am certainly not the expert here, but I have some basic steps that I have used which may be of interest to the newbies just getting started.  There are dozens of good ways to wire up your layout, and even though I enjoy it, I also get impatient about getting it done.  Pay more attention to making good connections than to making it pretty.  After awhile, you'll be able to do both.

 

There are some great examples of planning you wiring, as shown above.  I even used Visio to draw a plan to stage roughly where my wiring will go.  You can do the same thing just drawing it out with pencil and paper - no need to be this fancy.  This is a star wiring pattern for the track power, using terminal blocks at the junctions for distribution.  You can do one for switch power, or lighting, or other special needs.  Mapping it out first makes it easier when you're crawling around under the layout.

 

TRACK WIRING DIST [Medium)

 

Tip - after you've built the table framework, drill holes through the supports (at least 3/4" diameter) before attaching the top.  Imagine where you think alot of wires will go, and drill a "path", including other feeds that you think you might need.  It's okay if you end up not using the holes.

 

If you don't want to spend the time drilling, use cup hooks as you wire (or put them in instead of drilling holes.)

  

CUP HOOKS

 

 

HOLES

 

I found an easy way to get some lighting under the layout - a clear Christmas tree light set.  These or LED's would work.

  

LITES

 

Or I found a great way to see what you're doing under there - a head light, several styles available at any home improvement store.  They're cheap.  Battery powered triple A's last forever with these LED lights.  Yes, maybe a little uncomfortable, but it's easy to slip and off but well worth it.  The light housing is adjustable to aim at where you're looking.

  

LIGHT

 

I will leave the wire size and type selection up to you, or look for some good recommendations from the forum members.  I found out that the easiest colors to get in a hurry from Radio Shack or your LHS in case you run out is black, red, green, and white.  Although it can't show specific hookups once you're under the table, you can still do a color code that has worked well for me.

I used black & red for track power only:

 

RED BLK WIRE

Black & green for switch power only:

 

BLK GRN WIRE

Red & green for accessories:

 

RED GRN WIRE

Then by adding a white wire into the mix, several more combinations are available.  It's easy to narrow down the wire functions in a bundle when you're under there crawling around.

 

Other useful items to make the job less agonizing are ty-raps, splices (also buy a crimper if you don't have one - they're cheap), and/or terminal blocks for distribution points. 

 

TY-RAPS

 

SPLICES

 

terminal block

Home improvement stores carry these, but if you have a chance to order some before you start, get the ones with a square plate under the screw head that will capture a bare wire.  It's so easy to strip the wire, stick it under the plate on either side of the screw, tighten down the screw, and you're done in no time.  You will also see in the photo that I made a bunch of jumper wires, but that takes time.  Instead, use jumper tabs, available from the same place as the terminal blocks.  I have used MCM Electronics, but they're available at many electronic parts store websites, like Digi-key, Mouser, etc.

 

I mentioned the cup hooks earlier - they are good for when you're initially running your wires, and you're not sure the route you choose will be the final one.  Just drop the wires into the cup hooks and keep going until you're done - it's easy to pick them out of the loose bunch to move them later, and if you want it to be pretty under there, use ty-raps on the bundles once everything is finalized.

 

When you're finished it should look like this:

  

WIRING PANEL

Ha Ha.  I spent many years wiring electronic and electrical components, so I've had some practice.  Maybe this will help give you some ideas on how to straighten up your wiring if you want it to look nice.  It makes it so much easier to work on when you want to add things or change wiring configuration later.  Some people don't want to spend the time making it pretty, which is totally understandable.  I mean, how many guests have asked to crawl under your table and look at your wiring?

 

Hope this helps some newbies to get started.

 

Mike

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Images (12)
  • TRACK WIRING DIST (Medium)
  • CUP HOOKS
  • HOLES
  • LITES
  • LIGHT
  • RED BLK WIRE
  • BLK GRN WIRE
  • RED GRN WIRE
  • TY-RAPS
  • SPLICES
  • terminal block
  • WIRING PANEL
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