Toggles

A couple of thoughts...

You can use a 20A switch where a 10A is needed,

Regular house wall switches are usually 15A SPST switches if your control panel will allow,

You can also use a 10A SPDT or DPDT switch and just use 2 terminals.

Ed

If you can buy 20-amp toggles that look good, and which are cheap enough, I would go with them. It's always prudent to over-rate switches if they are affordable.  The suggestion to use DPDT is a good one, ,and that allows you to standardize on all your switches. The only drawback to that is the switch plate will say ON-OFF-ON instead of OFF-ON.

Right now on eBay there are 10-amp toggles in a package of ten, for $16.50.  So, that's $1.65 each, with FREE shipping.

Try Train Electrics • If you do not find it on the web page, just ask. 

http://www.trainelectrics.com/

As always, forum members come through!  Thanx for all your recommendations.  I didn't see 10 amp toggles on E Bay yesterday - I'll look again more closely.  Sounds like most agree that 20 amp could be used too.

Thanx

Paul

I used these from Digi-Key, mostly because I liked the looks and the handles. They are also 20 amp. They have worked well for me using both Legacy and DCS with no problems. About $5 or so each with name plate. Digi-Key is very reasonable on shipping as well, also a good place to deal with.

SWITCH TOGGLE SPST 20A 250V - Switch

SWITCH PLATE ON-OFF 15/32 - Name Plate

They also have many others to choose from.

Hi Paul--  Try Parts-Express at:  http://www.parts-express.com/cat/toggle-switches/1582

They have several listings that might help you out.

  KRK

Thanx, Ken - I'll include them in my price comparisons!!

Paul

I'm noticing that most of the toggles offered on the bay are screw type terminals - I'm thinking that the solder type are better - any preferences??

Paul

I have several DPDT center off toggles, they are 6 amp. I used them for block control on my layout with no problems, they have wires soldered to the terminals but they are easily removed.  The advantage of DPDT was I could use 2 transformers different times for the same  block Asking $2 each plus shipping

Try Jameco & Parts-Express.  There are many sources for these.

What are you guys using for lighted toggles?

Rick

Does anyone solder wire connections to screw type toggles??

Paul

Paul, rather than solder, I'd use crimp terminals.  They're cheap enough.  On submini switches, getting a good solder joint can be tough.

ABSOLUTELY!!

I never use the screws. I remove them, loop the wire through the screw hole and solder it.

Thanx again Rich and RJR!

Forum members are the best!

Paul

To quote Mr.Melvin (our Illustrious Leader), "Absolutely" !!  Yes, many times I have removed the screws on toggle switches and then soldered the wires after looping thru the screw hole.  Works great, Paul !  And as RJR stated, be careful soldering the mini-switches if you get any.  Many years ago in Oakland, CA I was working on our O-scale club layout.  About 100 feet away, a senior member was working on overhead trolley wire. From the distance I could see "heat waves" rising, like on the desert.  I went over and asked what he was using (for model RR work).....  His answer ?  A 550-watt

'American Beauty' with a 1 1/2" tip !!  (grin)   So make sure you use the right size iron too!

Cheers.

KRK

Ken - talk about "overkill"!  I assure you my 40 watt iron won't send up smoke signals!

Thanx for the advice!

Paul

I prefer solder whenever I can use it.  Screws may be easier for many, but I have better luck and more reliability with properly soldered connections.

Agreed, John!

Solder for quality wiring.

It is difficult to get a good soldering job on a submini switch when using #14 wire, since the wire won't fit any holes.

Since the mini-switch is rated at 6A maximum, what's the point of #14 wire to it anyway?  I'm guessing this it the type of switch you're talking about?

Actually, that is the rating for 120VAC, and half that at 240VAC, so I'm not sure what it would be rated at 20VAC.  But, the reason for the 14-gauge is that this is track power, and it could be a 30-foot run to the point where it's soldered to the center rail.

Well, current ratings don't go up dramatically with lower voltage, as the contacts still have to carry the current.  The voltage rating has more to do with the spacing of the contacts than the size of the contacts.

You can solder drops from the control panel using 18ga wire and then connect to the 14ga wire with that drop.  Sending 10A through 18ga wire for a foot won't affect your voltage much, voltage drop using 2 feet of #18 would be about .13 volts.

I agree on that, GRJ.  Actually, even with several trains running on a circuit, total draw for that circuit rarely exceeds 5 amps (I don't use smoke) , and given that I have many relatively short blocks, I suspect that rarely will the amperage through any toggle exceed 2 amps.  Probably only on a derailment.

I edited my post.

0.18 is a lot of IR drop.

I am always shocked (no pun intended) by the difference between voltage at the transformer and voltage at the far end of a block when there is a current-hungry train running.

Well, I said .13, not .18.  Also, I assumed two feet of #18, you could obviously have a much shorter run spliced to the #14 and have much less voltage drop.

I truthfully don't see this as much of an issue, you probably lose as much in the switch.