Does anyone have a good or bad opinion on Tortoise Switch Machines? I am trying to decide on what track and switches to use for a future layout. I have about 50 Tortoise Switch Machines that were part of a collection I recently purchased. Just not sure if I want to use them. Thanks for any help.
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They are quiet and realistic. Like all under-table switch machines, they require some adjustment from time to time. Since they have motors, there is always the possibility of one failing in service, but their reliability is good.
Use piano wire instead of the oem wire tortoise gives you.
A little tedious to install. Once operating correctly you will probably never tinker with them again. Mine have been out the layout for 28 years.
They are virtually indestructible as long as you power them at their rated voltage. They use a torque motor which can be powered continuously. Stall current is about the same as an LED draw.
Their only downside is they are not ideal for antiderailng due to their slow movement.
Pete
The best out there!
If you have any left over after your layout build let me know!
From what I have read here on the forum over the last few years the Tortoise switch machines are very highly thought of. Many say they're the best out there, as in see above post by Laidoffsick. If I ever change mine out I will definitely consider them.
They are the best switch machines out there, nothing else comes close for features and reliability. I have over 40 on the layout and have had exactly one failure in 16 years.
"Use piano wire instead of the oem wire tortoise gives you"
What diameter piano wire did you use? I'm in the process of installing some and think the supplied wire is a bit to stiff.
Tortoise machines are supplied with piano wire, .025". I have replaced it with .040" for positive closure. Some keep the .025 which will allow most equipment to run through a closed switch in reverse.
Pete
milwrd posted:"Use piano wire instead of the oem wire tortoise gives you"
What diameter piano wire did you use? I'm in the process of installing some and think the supplied wire is a bit to stiff.
The wire that comes with them is 0.025" but I install mine using 0.032" wire. Hobby shops that carry model airplane supplies usually have this wire in 3-foot lengths.
I picked mine up used and the wires measured out at .040 so that explains the stiffness. It sure makes for a positive switch closure as Norton points out. I guess I'll have to do a little experimenting. Thanks for the input.
Most of the time I use the Tortice supplied wire, makes for a very good non derail feature (Ross turnouts).
Thank you everyone for your help......I value your opinion.
I know a lot say these are bulletproof (and I agree), but I remember reading somewhere that someone once had an issue with powering the frog with these and did something to beef them up (or use both sets of contacts in parallel) since the switching connection can only handle 1A…anyone have any idea what that would have been? Maybe they used the switching connections to make a higher amp relay go off? Thoughts?
The internal Tortoise relay contacts can't carry much current. I only drive LEDs with them. I do have a few sidings set up so that track power is turned on when the switch is lined for that track. In those cases, I use the Tortoise relays to drive the relay coil of a standard relay. That relay (12 VDC, DPDT, many amp capacity) throws the track power on and off.
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