Track not working lost power

You may need more than one power connection to your track, depending on how large your layout is. Voltage diminishes the further it has travel away from your transformer. How large is your oval ?

It could also be a Fastrack connection/continuity problem, as in this recent thread, but it sounds more like you need additional power drops added to your layout ... 

https://ogrforum.com/...5#146142158525086505

Take the track apart at the points where you lose voltage and clean and bend the pins as in the link above.

Add additional power feeds to the farthest points of your layout to compensate for voltage loss in the track.

Larry

Hi Richie,

The oval is 5 x 9. I have two power feeds to the track one on each side at the halfway point east and west side of the track. (This is the 5ft with points).

I took one of the feeds off thinking it was a some sort of short. I also thought it was the a bad TVS so i took that off the transformer (CW-80). Still nothing changed. Disconnected TMCC also. 

All of this just happened yesterday. I changed nothing only disconnected the above. If power stops at each halfway point what would be the odds of both track’s failing? I will attach second feed and put two more so that each end has power feeds. I hope this works unless something else. 

All replies are welcome.

In addition to checking track pins and feeders. What guage wire are you using?

The tiny 18 guage stuff that comes with the starter sets isn't really adequate when getting into larger layouts and command voltage. I'd recommend 16 or 14 guage. 

Additionally, if you can lose the tiny slip on connectors and solder the wire directly to the power tabs under the track, you'll get better voltage delivery.

@CanadianCN posted:

...

I have tested the voltage of each track piece and the north half has 15 volts and the south half has less than 7 volts.

Was this with the stalled engine on the track drawing power?

What I suggest is taking your voltmeter and measuring the voltage between each side of every track joint.  In other words, you're measuring voltage between outer-rail to outer-rail (or between center-rail to center-rail) across each track joint.  Obviously this voltage across every joint should be zero.

For such a large drop (15 to 7), I'm suggesting you'll find one (or more) joints where there is a substantial drop.  Ideally you want to perform these measurements with a load on the track...say the stalled engine or a bulb-lighted passenger car.  The point being poking around on the track with meter probes can wiggle the joints just enough to give you false readings...but a lighted passenger car would flicker or a stalled engine might jerk. 

If simply adding power feeds restores operation to your satisfaction then so be it, but I see it as a band-aid that masks an underlying problem.

Well I took the tracks appart and put the back together found one of the feeder wires not connected. Thinking this was the culprit shorting out part of the track. Maybe.

Now perfect voltage across each section.

I will keep you posted this weekend to see it problem is completely cured. Wish I could buy you all a drink for the help you have given me.

Be on the look out for updated.

Looking for guidance and input that noticing when running TMCC the sounds of locomotive seem to be out of sequence for my knowledge of train terms. Would the power to track or drops in voltage create this. Working on finding solutions.

all the best and thank you  

 Is this a Steam engine ?

 If so.  Is it the chuff that’s not consistent ?

@CanadianCN posted:

Well I took the tracks appart and put the back together found one of the feeder wires not connected. Thinking this was the culprit shorting out part of the track...

No, you did not have a "short." You had a loose, dirty, high resistance connection between two pieces of track that was not properly passing voltage from one section of track to another.

That is not a "short."

@Rich Melvin posted:

No, you did not have a "short." You had a loose, dirty, high resistance connection between two pieces of track that was not properly passing voltage from one section of track to another.

That is not a "short."

It's not loose, dirty or high resistance either.  He said it wasn't connected.

To clarify it is a steam engine and the chuff sounds are not consistant. The chuff will start then disappear with almost a disconnect sound. Other  sounds Like braking also work intermittent. Let me know if you need further details.

thank you

Lionel uses a microswitch on a cam to signal the chuff sounds. Most likely you have a bad chuff switch. Assuming that this is the only locomotive with sound issues, this does not sound like a track power issue.

I only have one locomotive with chuff.

Do you know the part number for a 6-18071?

Before you assume it is the switch, check it, and look at the other "free" fixes for the same issue, like dirty track/wheels/rollers, or weak/dead battery, etc.

Not that isn't the switch, your bench approach seems kinda haphazard and impulsive when it should be investigative.

A short could have been present with the loose wire, but it likely would have pulled down voltage everywhere.... unless weak connections prevented that too (possible, but not as likely)  

ButaBut short is when the opposing power polarites directly touch each other or wires touch that should not.   Often a weak or (especially) a totally broken connection is refered to as a short by folks in the know while talking, but it really isn't right to write it . Field talk is for those that work it and may differ in ink.

If I looked up your engine correctly. It’s a Southern Pacific Daylight with a Pullmor motor.

 Not familiar with the early command TMCC. In looking at the parts breakdown. There doesn’t appear to be a chuff switch. In fact I don’t see rollers on the tenders trucks. There is a 6 pin tether. I’m guessing everything runs through this as far as sound and powering the tender. The ground path could still be the tenders wheels that may need cleaning. Could be something up with a broken wire or not seared plug. Hopefully someone more familiar with this engine will chime in as to your loss of sounds problem.

 If you get no responses here. Try a posting a new topic  describing your sound problem. Engine number. Along with it’s features.

Here's  the exploded view parts list for your engine.

On a second look.  I was looking more in the chassis area and didn’t spot it. There is a chuff switch. #29 in the parts breakdown. Listed as cherry switch. Should work off the smoke lever as far as triggering the switch on and off. Sometimes the plunger on the smoke unit can stick. 
 This won’t fix your other lost sounds though.