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I just finished (well, not really) a Downtown Deco kit of the "Palace Hotel",

creating new signs for it, such as "Rooms, Hour, Day or Week".  There was a

really nice hotel shown on here a couple of days ago..paged back and didn't find it..and there were several hotels offered on the net, including another example of that kit posted here, but I won this one.  This is a smaller hotel and screams urban grunge, but reminds me of some of the buildings (ruins) you see in the Rhyolite ghost town on the edge of Death Valley, so I used acrylics to give it a good desert dust treatment.  It is complete as free standing but is a really small hotel, so I am going to enlarge it with an addition of a dining room below and a better class of rooms over that, maybe with a separate staircase, as your wife would take one look, and yelp, "Drive on!", and I wouldn't consider staying in this flophouse, either.  I hope to post pictures of the completed version. and of another previous finished structure when this one is finished.  This hydrocal kit went together really fast, in spite of the weathering, vs. my usual stick built creations. This and a saloon, "The Brick Shot House", I think I posted on here,  will comprise the "city block" passengers will see in my "major city" as they exit the train,

to give credence to the "wrong side of the tracks" statement.

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hydrocal is easy to work with and takes weathering very well. follow Randy's (downtown deco) directions carefully. 5 minute epoxy works best. if you have to sand do it with one or two wipes, no more. the material disappears quickly. you can use spackling to fill in gaps. brace interior corners with wood strips. file inside windows and door openings lightly with a nail file. follow instructions re: painting and you'll be very satisfied. the realism of hydrocal castings is the best. caution: lay down pieces carefully. they can break easily. if they do, glueing together is easy and adds to the character. if the breaks aren't fixable Randy will replace any broken part you have at no cost so you don't have to worry about it.

jerrman

All the above is good advice...I want a larger building so I ordered in one of OGR's

kits to enlarge the building by adding a restaurant with more rooms above.  This

kit is already started with walls sawed in two and moved around to match them with

the finished Downtown Deco kit.  This is easy as the Deco kit has blank (windows

filled) walls on both sides against one of which I will place the OGR kit, not needing

the fourth wall in that kit, for which I will find a use.  This OGR kit is of different

material than the Korber kit and takes plastic cement..Korber kits need 2 part epoxy

and interior bracing.  The OGR "Vinny's" kit is matching up well with the Deco kit in

size.

Doug,

 

OGR Ameri-Towne buildings are made of a plastic that glues well using one of the liquid plastic cements on the market, such as Bondene or Plastic Weld.

 

The Korber kits originally were made of a resin product, I believe, that required epoxy or similar for bonding. The newer ones I think are of a plastic that can be bonded with plastic cements.

 

Rich, the new owner of Korber, should be along soon to confirm and offer definitive info.

 

Jim

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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