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I'm going to attach the plan kind Dave drew up for me.  The innermost green and pink will be elevated.  I've been looking for enough trestle to accommodate this span.  I thought about cutting and painting round dowels,  as a member had done, but feel the would obstruct much of layout.  So - standard trestle might be the way to go.  I'm not handy as far as intricate woodworking goes, so it looks like purchasing retail is the way to go.....Any ideas?  I'm using Gargraves track and think a dark / black trestle would look best.

Thanks - Ponz

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Model Structures posted:

Ponz:

If you are interested in wood bridges and decking take a look below for some samples of my work.

Joe

Bi-Level Truss Bridge 001Angled Post Girder Bridge 004Narrow Trestle Deck for O27 Track 003O Scale Truss 3Curved Trestle Deck 008O Scale Trestle Bent 002O scale Bulkhead 004

Extremely nice work!  But if I'm already complaining about the price of Lionel's plastic trestle sets, I'm certain that your will be more expensive.  Very impressive though. 

Ponz

Jim Policastro posted:

Ponz,

GarGraves does not have the strength to be supported only by trestles spaced every 10" or so like the old tubular track or Fastrack.

You will need to support the GarGraves along its entire length either with a plywood roadbed supported by some sort of piers or by structures such as those Joe showed you.

Jim

That's what I needed to know Jim.  What about closer spacing, or will that look funny? Now I have quite a challenge because my setup does not follow any specific curve like O54, O42, O32, etc....It's custom laid to an awkward table.

Thank you.

Ponz

Last edited by Ponz

You could probably get away with about 5" or 6" spacing of trestles. But, track without a continuous support is always dicey IMO whether it is tubular on the plastic 110 trestles or whatever else you use.

It wouldn't be too bad if the upper level were a constant elevation with no grades. An up and over like you show would take a lot of custom cutting of whatever you use for supports.

It would be easier and more stable to just lay out your curved track on a sheet of plywood if you are using pre-bent curves (recommended!), trace around it, and cut out the strips of roadbed with a saber (jig) saw about 1/2" outside the ends of the ties.. 

If you are bending your own curves, I'd do it right on the sheet of plywood, attaching the track to the plywood as you go. Then, use the saber saw to cut along the curves creating roadbed strips with track attached. Then you could use whatever style trestle you want to support them. 

The plywood roadbed allows you to space out your supports while providing a much more stable system overall.

Jim

Hi.

Another option would be girder bridges made by BRIDGEBOSS.COM. These are made in most all standard curve sizes and in various non standards including multiple curve arrangements. There are several types of supports to select from also.

See a few examples below. Contact me if any questions.

jim r

trains 4 sale 020IMGP0384_resizemisc 032misc 151100_4665misc 146o5000002Amisc 04620100319_04misc 202100_4924misc 008 [2)misc 150trains 4 sale 020

 

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Ponz:

Another idea - there are only two spots where the upper level track crosses lower level track. Everywhere else you could use woodland Scenics foam risers. Creating a slope / adding scenery and or adding Scenic Express foam block walls would look pretty good.

Attached are some picture off the internet

Apologies on my lead time.

 

Joe

01a%20Before%20Tunnelimagesstyrofoam-retaining-wall-edge

 

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