trestles and grades

quote:

Originally posted by opticsguy:
Using gargraves track, how far apart can the trestle supports be without track flexure. I could make up 34 blocks spaced 10" apart to get this grade or 28 blocks at 12" spacing or . . . . . . . The reason for so many blocks is so I dont have to make accurate plywood rail beds at this stage of design.

I'm using FasTrack so my results will be different from yours. My elevated line is using trestles every 10 inches or so and that really isn't working that well. I'm not sure if it is just the Lionel trestles or where I am putting them or what. I'm going to try experimenting with some blocks to see what might work better. I'm guessing that anything I do that decreases the unsupported lengths and puts support under the track joints will be an improvement. That will probably hold true for you as well.

To me, it isn't just about the track moving/flexing though. I am having a lot of trouble with how it LOOKS. I need to have the look of something other than air supporting the track/roadbed. Trestles would have to be right next to each other and I don't have nearly enough of them. Long term, I am going to handle this with a big mountain. Short term, I am thinking about making some kind of risers that look like they are part of the terrain.

quote:

2nd question, also have the idea for two main lines running full circle on the layout. Am thinking these overhead tracks could "straddle" two lines below on some sections. So ideas for trestle supports that support two tracks and would straddle one or two tracks.

What comes to mind for me is the setup you see in New York or Chicago where you have a pretty solid framework supporting the overhead tracks with the street running below.

Well, with any type of track, I like to have a support under every point where two sections or pieces meet, and never more than eight inches apart. Some big scale locos, the type that need a really flat track to get all 15+ inches of drivers and wheel all down firmly on the track can weigh well over a dozen pounds and can depress foot-long lengths of unsupported track enough to see a slightly movement as they go by.

I have some portions of my overhead that straddle track underneath for a while. You just need a good upside down U support.

opticsguy,

I would also highly recommend at least 1/2" plywood roadbed under the track for support on all elevated sections.

The only exception might be in the case of a small elevated loop on a layout dedicated to the "toy train look", where the nostalgic appearance of the Lionel trestle set is important. For most other situations, solid support under the track is really the way to go.

Here's the design I used to elevate track while straddling other tracks on the lower level:











They can be widened in areas to straddle multiple tracks if necessary:




The piers are cut from 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard) sprayed with a "make it stone" type paint. Girder sides are luan plywood or 1/8" masonite strips.

Other homemade pier designs using wood and standard moldings, some of which could be used as shown or adapted to straddle lower tracks:






Jim

Thanks, Jim. I can use this too!

Jim,

All I can say is WOWOWOW!!!

How do I get all those buildings on my table also?

How do I make my table larger?

How to do all this with so many other hobbies and in such a short life span?

:-)

Retirement and an understanding wife helped!!!

Jim