Troubleshooting Fastrack Command Control (and regular electric) Switches

Open the switch and solder all the tabs that need to conduct to power the various parts of the switch.  I had to do this to all my O72 Fastrack switches, problem solved.  I also solder any tab that has in internal connection to the electronics, same reason.

Thanks SO much for the tip. i'll give it a shot tomorrow and report back!

Ya know, for what you pay for these switches, they shouldn't have to be "worked on".   I just purchased 4, O72 Fastrack Command Control/Remote Switches and I'll take GRJ's advice because he's usually Spot-On.  However, it really "fries my bacon" that for just south of 100 bucks each I'm not able to just hook em' up and "Play" with em'.  It seems that the prices keeps rising as the quality fails, but that is often the case pretty much everywhere today.  What a shame.  Just sayn'.

Chief Bob (Retired)

PUFFRBELLY posted:

Ya know, for what you pay for these switches, they shouldn't have to be "worked on".   I just purchased 4, O72 Fastrack Command Control/Remote Switches and I'll take GRJ's advice because he's usually Spot-On.  However, it really "fries my bacon" that for just south of 100 bucks each I'm not able to just hook em' up and "Play" with em'.  It seems that the prices keeps rising as the quality fails, but that is often the case pretty much everywhere today.  What a shame.  Just sayn'.

Chief Bob (Retired)

For the most part, I agree with you, Bob, but I just want to point out that these switches actually cost about 2/3 of the price of the ones they replaced.  least expensive   new switches on the market, and they include features not found on more expensive models.  I do agree that things should work, out of the box, but that is a losing fight in model trains these days.  

JGL

The issue with the older tubular track switches and again with the Fastrack switches is the same.  Lionel continues to depend on a simple fold of the sheet metal over the connection and expects that connection to be electrically solid.  The facts say otherwise, so it's a really common issue.  I had two command O72 switches that had a complete open circuit across the switch, power on one side, nothing on the other.  When I looked inside, cosmetically there was nothing wrong.  After taking up all the switches and soldering all the tabs that are "active", problem solved, and it hasn't come back.

Well, sure enough the tabs seemed to be the problem. Although I did get a surprise. 

i opened the first switch up and one solder point on the center rail did the job. I didn't bother with the rest in case there is further issues. (at which point I'll have had enough and just return it)

The second switch was a bit of a shocker. problem was in the same location, but on this switch I was shocked to find there must have been a massive short of some type. 1-2" of the tab section that gives center rail power to both forks and the point of the switch was completely fried and black, partially melted into the roadbed. I have no idea what happened, but not pretty and thankfully it wasn't worse. It was on a siding I literally ran a train through twice, so I'm a bit concerned it wasn't a running train short. I ran a jumper wire around it to fix it no problem, but a bit scary...

Then go figure, 45 minutes of running later another switch dies on me. Either I have terrible luck or this si sub-par assembly/quality control. Soldering at the factory  can't add more than 15 cents per switch...

With a loose connection in the crimps, you can generate a lot of heat when current flows, that's most likely what happened.

Trust me on this, you're going to want to simply open them all up and solder them.  You can do it in batches or wait until they fail one at a time.

I have one of these switches that is completely "dead" when power is applied. So, an engine will stop as soon as arrives at the "lantern" end.  I can't measure voltage from the trough line or the end of the "turn out".  In the meantime I have found the Led for the lantern is also burned out.  Will the burned out LED prevent voltage from passing through the switch?  Do you think I have a like problem as being previously discussed and need to solder all of the connections after removing the bottom panel?

10/16/2020 @3:02 PM (MST)

The LED has nothing to do with the power issue.

Open the switch and solder all the tin tab crimps, the power issue will magically go away.

Thank you, Sir.  Thanks for this forum!

Hey gunrunnerjohn, guess you can disregard the message I sent to Hennings web site. Thanks again for confirming what I needed to do.