Very cheap signal

I have some of the three signal models from probably the same guy, wehonest, didn't see those, that's pretty cool!

I covered the back of a couple with JB-Weld, then colored it black, they look much nicer without the exposed wires.

PC-Quebec, I'm assuming they have LEDs in them, what voltage do they require?  Could you post a picture of the single traget one.  Thanks!

Ya that's from WeHonest.  The new dual target anew, last week I ask him if he can do few for me and he make few and post them on Ebay too. Yes they have led , the resistor is made for 12 to 16 volts, but you can change the value for anything, I'm sure Wehonest will do it for you.

 I will take some pic on my layout tomorrow and post it here   

The resistor is right out on the common lead, so it's very easy to change for any environment.  For the single signal boards (2 or 3 light), they also have a slick control board that you can get for $12/ea for five of them.  They will control the signal using IR or a magnetic sensor.  I think you can probably wire them to an isolated track as well, I'm going to try that soon.  The IR sensor and the reed switch come with the board.

Gunrunner,

Is that the same supplier of your dwarf signals?

Joe

Yep, wehonest on eBay.  They work great with the IR, but I'm lazy and I'm going to see if I can get it working with the isolated track so I don't have to mount the IR sensors and try to hide them.

I could not locate wehonest as an Ebay seller when I did a search this morning for a listing of their products.

It seems the whole name is wehonest_us, which explains why you didn't find it.

Also, the listing for the five boards was on a different country site for some reason.

Controller boards for signals

Thank you!

He also has another Ebay seller name: wehonest_cn I think this is the original seller name, as it has lots of feedback compared to the wehonest_us name which has only less than 2000 feedback.

this is where I get the signal

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150891856402?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_4273wt_1163

Now if they would only make PRR position signals  (even if without the ladder!).

Thanks FEC & PC!

I'd like to see some of the PARR signals, seeing as how I'm in SE-PA and have a lot of Pennsy stuff.

Interestingly enough, I think there's something to be said for inexpensive plastic signals given what happens to the expensive ones when a derailment jack-knifes. We lost a pair of Atlas signals when a freight car picked a switch point. $4 each sounds pretty attractive if you can set up the electronics to trigger them.

Did you look at the control boards I linked?  I doubt it gets much cheaper than that.

On my part I use CTI signalman for light the signal and I have Watchman module for track sensors and also I build a special circuit to send to Railroad & co the position of the switch.  The anti-derail system of the Fastrak switch is still operational too. 

I make a tread before on my Fastrack turnout feedback, at the time it was with JMRI but now I use RR&co. 

https://ogrforum.com/d...491#8047031360861491

The fact we can use the third rail for sensors and the Fastrack turnout are a reason I like 3 rails so much, I don't look back at HO and 2 rails anymore. ( you gone find it funny, but what I like most of Fastrack turnout, is the big remote lever ) 

I bought some of the plain targets from him, then picked up some 5mm bi-color LEDs. I'm going to make up some 3 head masts and put them on a customized double wide Lionel 450 signal bridge.

I just purchased some of the wehonest dwarf signals.  GunrunnerJohn....did you ever figure out a way to operate these signals on isolated track?  I would like to do the same.  If running from track power at 18v, do I need to add resistors?

Rick

The control boards John linked are fine,but the yellow is a function of time. Relays can also be used. here is a post on a 3 light block signal which is a function of position and more prototypical

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowThread?id=577

Dale H

Are these running DC or AC?

Per this OGR thread, wehonest also sells control boards with the yellow timing function.  It shouldn't be difficult to use isolated rail triggering in place of the Infrared sensor if that's the only "input" type it accepts.

I actually used the IR sensors, they work pretty neat.  I made some little mileposts that have the IR sensors in them to trigger them.

When we use isolated track, I build a little resistor board with some salvaged DC relays, a 33uh choke (for DCS) a diode, and a capacitor to give me a nice constant and isolated trigger, then you can trigger any signal or accessory with them.

Are the sensors built into the board, or are they wired so the board can be mounted below the layout? Do you have any photos of your mile markers?  Thank you.  I think I will order the boards (and 3-aspect signals...I have just the red/green now) and experiment.  Should be fun.

Rick

The sensors plug into the board, they are separate.  I have the boards mounted below the layout table.

I don't happen to have a picture handy, this was done on the club modular layout.  The mile posts were just small square posts that were hollow to allow me to install the two sensor components about 1/2" apart facing the track. 

I made the posts by taking a piece of wood and cutting a slot into it.  Another thin piece of wood was glued to cover the slot after the sensors were installed and make the finished post square.  The sensor wires drop down through the bottom and through the table.  I just glued the posts to the layout.  I painted them silver to attempt to emulate metal and put a number on them.

As far as the link, maybe it expired, I found the units when I looked.  Here's the link for a pair of the boards: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Logic-...;hash=item3a706beaad

Yep, there is a separate emitter and the photodetector. You connect them directly to the board with the included plugs.  Here's a picture of the board, the LED and sensor come pre-wired, you can see the socket to plug them in.  They also include a reed switch and magnet for an alternative triggering method.

I'm not sure how you'd use the opto-isolator, you have to run the wheels through the gap.  I'm assuming you're talking about one of these?

They say they run of AC or DC.  I've attached my capture of all the instructions for the boards.

Nope.  Like one of these:

Sorry Stan, I was on a totally different wavelength!   I suspect that would work, since I imagine the right half is pretty much what the sensor is.  I use the relay modules because they're already in the inventory and we have salvaged parts for them.

Of course your slotted-optocoupler would work too with a piece of tape wrapped around it to insure nothing breaks the LED beam from hitting the detector

Wonder if I can use these for subway signals?  How could I set them up in sequence like the atlas signals?

Take a look at the Signal Controller Board we are discussing in the thread, you'd use that in conjunction with the opto isolator Stan posted.

This is how they operate with the controller board.

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased the 2 aspect (Red / Green) dwarf signals from We Honest and have a question.

I tested them with my Atlas 6924 boards running the red and green wires from the dwarf signal to the Com 1 C1 and C2 inputs Of the 6924 board and the black wire (from signal) with a 16 volt resistor attached to the accessory ground.

I also run the Atlas #57 switch controller off of the same inputs of the 6924 board.

The signals seem to operate without any issues with the red and green lights of the signal matching the 57 controllers Red and Green lights indicating switch position.

I tested by leaving the Red light of the signal on for about 6 hours and changed over to the green light and left it on for 6 hours.  Then switched back and forth randomly for another hour.  The signals are not too bright and do not flicker.   

The signals come set up for 16 Volts DC but Im running them on 16 to 17 volts AC.  When I felt the resistors they seemed cold to the touch. 

I was thinking I would need a more robust resistor for this application but since these seem fine should I just use them as is or change out the existing resistor for a bigger resistor?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

For AC, just toss in a series diode, no need to change the resistor.

Hi Gunrunner!

Thanks for the reply.  I should have added that I don't know too much about electronics. 

Would an 1N4001 diode be sufficient?  Also would I attach the diode in line with the resistor?  In other words right after the resister on the black ground wire?

Thanks for your help.

Yep, 1N4001 is fine in-line with the resistor.  Just hook it up and connect the diode with the band toward the resistor, the other end is the common positive voltage.

Thanks Gunnrunner!!!!

Hi guys,

here are a couple of pictures of the first two installed.  I painted them and put them on bases.