HELP!!! Weaver MILW F6 Baltic Problems

Hello Charlie, JB Weld will do the trick for the pilot especially with the pins it has to secure it.

Regardless if you use solder or epoxy you should remove the paint from the mating surfaces. Paint won't hold the epoxy very well. Someone with a resistance solderer could reattached the pilot with minimal paint loss but if you don't have access to one of these JB Weld will work. The original formula has twice the strength of the JB Kwik. Just let is sit undisturbed for 24 hours.

Pete

UPDATE!!

Got The pilot sorted out rather quickly! and the results were fantastic! Thanks Paul. But, after getting the locomotive back together has revealed a few new problems.

First, a new click/grinding noise has appeared when running the locomotive slowly; I've included a video of this. my hunch is it has something to do with the main drive gear. I've lubricated it but this hasn't had any effect. Suggestions? This is also accompanied by a click every time the running gear reached the top of the driver at high speeds.

Second, The locomotive has started Ghosting. It'll begin moving on its own when I power up the layout without any command from my Legacy Remote. I have NO idea ho to fix this. So any appreciation would be appreciated.

This locomotive is also very jumpy in low speeds. Particularly in revers, It seems to draw most of the power on the layout, dimming the headlights on all my other active locomotives and sometimes killing track power.

All these poor quality's may seem condemning, but here's a vid of the smoke unit working hard to show just how fantastic this locomotive is!!

Side Note: The Squeaking in the rear truck hasn't been fixed, still working on a solution. Thinking of adding rubber O rings around the axels to keep the wheels away from the frame.

First, make sure the wheels and rollers are clean.

The clicking, jumpiness and high current draw all point to a mechanical problem in the drive train.   I would first inspect all drivers and rods for bent components and then take off the boiler to check for binding on the motor, flywheel and drive train.  Turn the motor by hand to feel any resistance.  After that, try powering the loco upside down in a cradle directly from a transformer (conventional)  to look for problems.   Continuing to run it while it draws excessive current risks burning out traces or board components.  I bought mine used with a dead board that had burned out components and traces.  Because of this problem, Weaver issued revised instructions for modifying the board connections to bypass some of the small traces.   

Bob