Weighted cars

I've weighted cars to the NMRA recommendations, that's worked out well for me.  As for the weight seeming more "realistic", I suspect that would only happen if I were carrying the car around.  When they're rolling in a consist, mine work just fine at NMRA weights.

@Terry Luft posted:

I have several k line die cast cars. Really like the way they track and for some reason the weight just seems more realistic. I’m tempted to add weight to other cars. I’m not talking about NMRA recommended weight but something more substantial. I don’t have any grades on the layout so that is not an issue. Has anybody else done this and if so are the results worth the effort

While adding weight helps feel more realistic, being I work on the repair side of the house both mechanically and electrically, I think in general adding weight- especially to extremes is bad for wear and tear.

Your gearboxes and motors will thank you for not going down this path- even on the level grade.

Your train, your rules, your wallet.

I started adding some weights to some of my cars that felt abnormally light.  The added weights make the car 'feel right', but the NMRA standard seems way to heavy, for me at least, and my updated cars weigh less than that.  Admittedly I don't have much experience with running a train with the weights, since this is a somewhat current project.

Weights are for 2r.

Not needed in 3r scale unless you run Weavers with plastic trucks or maybe the light weight non-scale cars depending on how poor your track work is.

Never could understand die-cast cars, think it was just an early experiment by K-Line then others bought the molds. Made for young kids at the time for easy play value. Why would you want to pull around boat anchors?

Just my 2 cents.

@SIRT posted:

Weights are for 2r.

We'll have to agree to disagree.  While I'm sure weight is more important for 2R, it's a real factor for 3-R if you create long consists.  I can assure you that when I am pulling 50+ cars that weight becomes important, especially on curves and grades.

SIRT writes:

….unless you run Weavers with plastic trucks….

Agreed, Steve, and they will stringline around a curve.

I found that adding zinc weights to the cars in the Lionel 6 pack coal cars makes a big difference in tracking.  The cars are VERY light weight even with a coal load.  They no longer derail, so I gotta say it works for me in that particular circumstance.  I also added weights to other light weight cars with good results.  YMMV.

I have a theory that "the weight of a car is less important to its performance than the location of that weight".  A 40' car with diecast trucks and couplers seems to perform well enough without adding weight in my experience.  However I have not been able to run a long enough train to truly test the theory out.

Long train solution taught by my Dad in 1963: "Heavy cars up front, light ones in the back"

I run about a mix of 37 scale cars on 036, 042 and 054 curves, never had an issue using Gargraves track. I rather run 7 shorter trains on two tracks using DCS, its more interesting. I also like MTH diesel lash-ups as well. Press (ALL) on the remote and everything goes at once. Set it & forget it. Just sit back and enjoy all the action!

I will humbly submit to the collective wisdom of the forum and bring all of my rolling stock up to NMRA specs and move on.

I happen to like heavy cars, I have one four-axle depressed-center flat (All Nation or Walthers, I can never remember which did the four-axle and which did the six-axle) that is normally available in aluminum. When I opened the box up and took the car out, it was exceptionally heavy and I originally thought that the load was causing the weight. No, the loafdwas plastic and the car was cast bronze.

It has become one of my favorite depressed-center flats.

I am not sure you have to get the weight up to exactly NMRA specs for every car.  Adding a "reasonable" amount of weight seems to help for me.

John

Nothing is "exact" in this hobby.  In general, I like to get the cars in the ballpark of the NMRA specs, but a couple ounces either way isn't a big issue.  Also, heavy cars up front, and light cars in the back is always good advice, can't argue with that.  If you have some 2 pound cars and they're 10 inches long, obviously you can't get them to the recommended 15oz weight!

Dave, I was in industrial sales all my working life and I love that gearmotor on the flat car. Looks like an old US Electric  brand.

I try to add weights to my 3r rolling stock, maybe not all the way to NMRA stds but I find 2 oz over or close to the trucks makes a big difference in performance.   My massive 11 car 2 rail fleet however are all weighted to NMRA stds, it seemes to be required for reliable performance.

I go by the seat of my pants rule...if it feels light, I will weigh it and get as close to NMRA specs as possible.  If it feels fine in my hand, I don't ever think about it.  If I have problems with a particular car, I inspect the wheelsets, weigh it and act accordingly...as said above weight placement is very important also.  I try to get over the trucks as much as possible, but also have an even distribution of weight on the car.

@romiller49 posted:

Dave, I was in industrial sales all my working life and I love that gearmotor on the flat car. Looks like an old US Electric  brand.

Good eye; the logo shows a large "US" with a smaller "SYNCHROGEAR" superimposed on top. BTW, the armature shaft does turn but with a lot of friction. There seems to be something inside that rotates also; maybe a gear cluster.