What do you guys use for 2 rail track? “UPDATE “ 9/5/20

That almost sounds like G scale track as far as the "R" goes.  I found this on the Only Trains website:

Curved Track Sections LGB track curved sections are named according to their radius (R1, R2, R3,R5) and arc in degrees
11000 Curved Track, R1, 30°
This basic LGB curved section is included in LGB starter sets. Twelve 11000 sections make a complete circle (12 sections x 30° = 360°).
11020 Curved Track, R1, 15°
This section is 1/2 the arc of an 11000 curved section.
11040 Curved Track, R1, 7.5°
This section is 1/4 the arc of an 11000 curved section.
15000 Curved Track, R2, 30°
This is a medium-radius curve. Twelve 15000 sections make a complete circle (12 sections x 30° = 360°).
16000 Curved Track, R3, 22.5°
This is a large-radius curve. Sixteen 16000 sections make a complete circle (16 sections x 22.5° = 360°).
18000 Curved Track, R5, 15°
This is the largest radius curve. Twenty four 18000 sections make a complete (24 section x 15° = 360°)
18020 Curved Track, R5, 7.5°
This section is 1/4 the arc of an 18000 curved section.

Never seen it in 2-rail O-scale before but there's a lot I haven't seen.

All 2-rail O-scale curved track I have is measured by the radius, 3-rail O-scale track (027) is diameter, but I think you already know this.

Of course being a British engine...who knows what they do (and I'm half Welsh ).

There are HUGE differences between 2 rail and 3 rail track.  Research via Google.  The gauge (space between the rails) may be the same, but the height of rail varies widely, the depth of the flanges on rolling stock vary widely, you cannot use a piece of 3 rail rolling stock on 2 rail track unless the wheels are insulated or there is a switch on the engine which allows it to go back and forth between 3 rail and 2 rail track and then of course you have to take off or put on the center rollers..  This just scratches the surface of the issue.

Best advice as given to me researching this not too long ago:

If you want 2 rail stuff, buy 2 rail stuff

If you want 3 rail stuff, buy 3 rail stuff

The radius will dictate whether your brit tank engine will run.    IF it will run on the straight you have, it means that the flanges clear the simulated spikes and plates.    Atlas Track has a flat top, so technically the rail should work with 2 rail flanges that are finer than 3 rail generally.   

If the R2 is reference as above, that implies it is needs about 30 in radius.    I have never seen these R2 references before.    

Atlas track has plastic ties, so the two outside rails are insulated from each other.    As long as your loop has no switches, there should be no place where the outside 2 rails will short against each other.   

Test the loco on you curve and see what happens, run it slowly and watch carefully.

I use flex track and 52 inch radius on main and 48 inch on the short branch.   

A small tank engine should handle smaller radius.

As john says above there are a lot of other things to consider when comparing 2 and 3 rail operations.    I am just referring to running the loco around a loop without any switches.

There will definitely be no switches involved in the loop I’m thinking of. I’m just wondering if I can use 3 rail Atlas track so I can still run 3 rail and 2 rail with different power sources at different times obviously. 

Here are some pictures to give you a better idea of what I have to work with.  I noticed I didn’t have the engine on the track right in the picture. 

Hi Chris,

R2 is a European measurement, most commonly used by Lenz of Germany. The radius is 1028mm or 40 inches. 

Miketg

with out switches the atlas track will work with a double throw double pole switch you can have wired to go between center rail and outside rail and also between ac and dc 

A simple loop will work just fine as mentioned.   

If there is a little side play in the drivers at each end, it looks like it should work on 40 inch radius.

@Chris Lonero posted:

There will definitely be no switches involved in the loop I’m thinking of. I’m just wondering if I can use 3 rail Atlas track so I can still run 3 rail and 2 rail with different power sources at different times obviously. 

I don't know about Atlas track:  If it's at all like Lionel Fastrack (which has the outside rails connected, so it won't work for what you want), but I'm using Gargraves for both 2 and 3 rail as the mood strikes. Having wood ties and isolated outside rails makes this possible.  FWIW.

Mark in Oregon

For an engine that size, 40.5" Radius (O-81) Atlas 3-rail track should work or you can use the 40.5" radius 2-rail track. If you use Atlas three-rail track (not the turnouts, though), the running rails are insulated and you could wire the track to support 2-rail DC, just not the same time you're running 3-rail equipment or AC.

I just ordered some 0-45 curves from Trainworld to try it out. I’m not use to such small flanges but I’d rather a nice model than having to settle for the very limited choices of British type engines we have here in the states.     Thanks for all your help guys I’ll post the results after I get the track.  

@Strummer posted:

I don't know about Atlas track:  ...snip... Mark in Oregon

I thought that the outer rails of the Atlas three-rail straight and curve sectional track and the flex track were not connected so I dug out my trusty Simpson 270 VOM, and no, the outer rails are NOT connected. i have several lengths of the concrete tie flex track and (well, it is not really too flexible) I plan on removing the center rail and using it as two-rail track. I may do the same with some Fastrack that I have by removing the jumper between the two outer rails; quick-and-dirty yard and siding tracks. Unless it is it a highly visible location, I might not even yank the center rail. Food for thought.

As a 2 rail and ancient user of Gargraves, I did not consider that Atlas may have wired the outside rails together.   You want to check that with a meter.

We use Atlas 3-rail for our 2-rail equipment on our club layout.  No switches, obviously, but no problems, either.  The assertion that you must always use 2-rail track for 2-trains is overly simple and often incorrect.

Chris, I forgot to say what track I use.

I use Atlas and Micro-Engineering code 148 2-rail track and Signature Switch turnouts, frogs were made to handle 3-rail wheels.  I use 3-rail wheels and things are running smoothly, it was too costly to convert to 2-rail wheels.  Those pizza cutter flanges certainly help keep things on the track.

@palallin posted:

We use Atlas 3-rail for our 2-rail equipment on our club layout.  No switches, obviously, but no problems, either.  The assertion that you must always use 2-rail track for 2-trains is overly simple and often incorrect.

The switches are relatively easy to modify for two-rail without loosing any of the three-rail capabilities. A friend did it on his layout.

Chris, Matt had it right just above your last post.  R2 in England is 40.5" RADIUS ... RADIUS.  That's why Matt recommended O-81 - where 81 is the DIAMETER.

0-45 curves will have a 22.5" RADIUS, they will be too sharp.  Your pics above show how much sideplay on the wheelsets you still need to consider at tight radiuses.

Whatever, you have a nice Pannier-type tank engine there.  Built by the Great Western Railway, I used to see these on London Underground lines, hauling meat wagons between London's Paddington station and Smithfield Meat Market.  Yours is one of a few bought by London Transport and classily repainted mostly for running on its surface lines, not underground.

Jason 

Pic of a restored Pannier on the Severn Valley Railway in western England:

https://www.svrwiki.com/GWR_Pa...764_L95_20190331.jpg

Jason

@Jason Dickie posted:

Pic of a restored Pannier on the Severn Valley Railway in western England:

https://www.svrwiki.com/GWR_Pa...764_L95_20190331.jpg

Jason

Wow. That little engine had quite a history. It looks like the Pannier had dual water tanks instead of a "saddle tank". I like the look.

The Great Western had many of these in slight variations built over the years all over its system.  Between the stack (chimney!) and the dome there's a group of bits (nope, don't know off-hand!) then as you move towards the chimney a smooth pipe bend.  That's the water-balancing pipe between the two pannier tanks.  I suppose they could hold more water than saddle tanks in our loading gauge.

When I was very, very young I would see the local coal yard in Bristol being shunted by one of these. 11.00am every morning Mon-Fri!

Jason

Here are some more pictures of the model and the real engine. 

@Chris Lonero, you did see @Jason Dickie's warning on the O-45 being the wrong track and that you need O-81? Hopefully this gets to your attention in time to cancel/correct your order.

Very nice detail.

Funny, the "model" looks like it's bigger than the "real engine"!  

Mark in Oregon

OK guys I got my few 0-45 curves and it seems to be just fine. I also added DCC with sound to it last night. Here is a short video. 

Glad it worked out for you!

Thank you. Now I need more track to finish the job. 

Chris, the Pannier running is good to see and I'll try and load it on the Gauge O Guild forum in the UK!  There will be a few as surprised as me to see it on O-45!  Forget what I was saying about details on the top too!  The water balancing pipe between the two pannier tanks runs under the boiler.  The straps on top are just that, straps to hold the tanks in place! 

OK, I promise, I'll stick to D&H diesels in future! 

Jason

Hi Jason.  It runs fine on 0-45 radius the only thing I'm not use to are the shallow wheel flanges which was never a problem with 3 rail O gauge.  If the track is not dead flat the flanges are very unforgiving and will derail.  I had to do some tweaking to one part of the track to get it just right but I think I have that sorted now.  At least I have the option of running my 3 rail and now 2 rail on the same track. "Not at the same time of course"    

here is another video I didn’t post.