What do you use to cover foamboard?

Brother love. 90% of our layout is of the pink foam board. We have not used hydrocol on anything yet but we do use true scene modeling fiber. We have had no issues with anything flaking off yet. What I do suggest is paint the area you are about to cover with a base paint. We mix up a brown and black or sand color. It helps for plaster to hold and also when covering a area with grass and ground cover. Hope this helps, we are some what new to this but are results have looked fine for us. Here are a few shots. Everthing uder this area is pink foam. We used 3/4 inch and 1 1/4 inch thick foam. Nick

t8afao

Did you make the Tunnel portal? If so, what did you use? Very nice and nice work on the rocks.

-Ted

I cover it with Plaster of Paris for extra texture or I just skip that and go the with dirt, grass, etc.

No problems.

Buzz sure does get around!

quote:

Originally posted by TMack:
t8afao

Did you make the Tunnel portal? If so, what did you use? Very nice and nice work on the rocks.

-Ted

TMack the portals are 1/2 inch mdf covered with 1/16 thick wood squares glued onto the mdf. the squares came in a bag from Hobby Lobby some time ago. When the glue dried I used a oscillatting spindle sander to smooth the inside arch. Prime it with spray paint then paint to your choice. Brother_love. One thing also is on seams of the foam you may want to use spackle or plaster of paris to fill it. Nick

I simply give the foam product a coat of my earthy looking flat latex paint as a base for all additional scenic materials...absolutely simple and affective. I have not use plaster but have used the plaster impregnated cloth for some minor terrain alterations... also very simple and affective.

Bob

I'm with Vulcan and Bob. Paint the foam and start adding scenery. There's no necessity to cover the foam with anything else unless you need some additional land form texture.

Thanks everyone.

Yes, I wannted additional land form, very slight but not flat. I used the plaster cloth and will paint it a earth tone and add scenery.

Malcolm

quote:

Originally posted by DennisB:
I'm with Vulcan and Bob. Paint the foam and start adding scenery. There's no necessity to cover the foam with anything else unless you need some additional land form texture.

My experience Malcolm--- peel the slick polyethelene sheet off the extruded foam[pink or blue] before painting. I have had acrylic paint to release in a few spots when I did not remove the poly sheet and used wet water/glue--dribbled or sprayed when scenicking.. I realize this is posted way after the fact but its my 2 cents.

To Dennis, Fred, Patrick the buzz man, etal.

York challenge...
Build a 30 inch by 12 inch rural track side scene. 30 inches of track of choice and foam board. Entrants will have 30- 40 minutes to complete scene . Completed scene will include ballasted and laid track, a rural road and whatever else you wish to include to complete surface.


miscellaneous ground covers, stones and deadfall and ballast of choosing, Other stuff from scenic express. Some examples shown below. Not required or inclusive
.
MN72732s silfor 6mm parrie tufts
HK1573    Heki moorland grass fiber
hk1556    heki goldenrod
static grass.

Time efficient, great realistic texture.

I'll give any entrant a 10 minute headstart

Here is some examples of using both True Scene Modeling Fiber and lightweight joint compound:

 

FIber:

 

 

 

Fiber; the blue is tape is covering a future  roadway and track.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lightweight joint compound over Styrofoam

 

 

 

 

 

I like the Fiber having worked with both; PLUS you can make changes to the fiber by just wetting it. Can't do that with joint compound, hydrocal or plaster of Paris.

 

With fiber you can build VERTICALLY.

 

And as was said above: "Time efficient, great realistic texture."

 

Ok, I'm done.

 

 

 

I cheated, it took me 42 minutes.