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This is Krylon Camouflage 4291 Khaki.  There is a difference between aged concrete and concrete.

Note the three layers to the floor. Luan board bottom, masonite, slightly thicker middle and luan board top, cut to fit between the rails and finished/smoothed with drywall compound before paint. 

Profile of the floor detail.

Last edited by Mike CT
@Mike CT posted:

This is Krylon Camouflage 4291 Khaki.  There is a difference between aged concrete and concrete.



Note the three layers to the floor. Luan board bottom, masonite, slightly thicker middle and luan board top, cut to fit between the rails and finished/smoothed with drywall compound before paint.

Profile of the floor detail.



Pictures don't display.

I had a long e-mail exchange with Don "Industrial Models" Smith about his technique. Using spackling compound in multiple thin layers, he was able to achieve a good concrete appearance (after painting) without cracking ad shrinkage (except where he inserted cracks in the concrete). There's more work involved as the entire gauge of the track is filled, then you have to use a drywall saw to cut in the grooves for the rails. Turnouts in pavement are more complicated as the switch point clearance leaves fairly large gaps, even in a 2-rail application.

Another way to achieve tracks in concrete with less work would be to use SuperStreets straight sections and butt-join them with your regular track.

Hope this helps.

I am trying strips of different thicknesses of masonite as others have done to model a concrete floor in a two stall engine shed. The strips between the rails are still a little too wide so they haven't been painted yet.

I like the idea of skim coating for a masonry look but I'm not sure if the floor of an engine shed would be polished concrete or not.

I used Krylon khaki 1917 but I feel it needs more grey for concrete under a roof. That's my basement polished concrete floor to the left.

concrete

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