Anybody know of any short engines? Since I am running a complicated 027 layout in a small space (4 x 9), I want to use the shortest engines and cars possible. The longer the engine, the smaller the layout looks when the train is running.
Thanks,
Mannyrock
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Postwar #41 Army switcher and similar style switchers were short, and run well on 027 track. It was not a very good puller and had no Magnetraction, whistle/horn or bell, but it was very cute.
In 1973 Lionel came out with an industrial loco, I think it was a brand-new design never made in the Postwar era. It had a DC-only motor. I'm not sure how long it was, but it was about the same size as the Army switcher Arnold^^ mentioned.
Since you might be running DC you should definitely check it out. It won't pull many cars but it actually runs very smoothly. I can't imagine it would be expensive today, as it was literally the lowest-priced set in 1973.
Mannyrock, some call them traditional size, some call them semi-scale, but those traditional size locomotives and train cars made by Lionel in the Postwar era all run well on 027 track and switches. I particularly like those locomotives made from 1950 to 1955 because they tend to be good pullers with heft (especially the die-cast steamers like the Lionel #2065, 2055, 2035, 2020, etc.) and Magnetraction, they are made of very good materials, they are mechanically very sound, and they are durable, reliable, fixable and affordable.
There are also traditional size modern locomotives with more bells and whistles and other great features. Almost all of the MTH Railking and Lionel Lionchief, Lionchief Plus and new Lionchief 2.0 will run on O Gauge track (031 curves), and some will run on 027 track. Read the boxes and other materials about these modern engines carefully to make sure they will run on your 027 track. Arnold
The Lionel TrackMobile will run on O16 SuperStreets. They are short.
They made a dc switcher for a Desert Storm set, dc only. Not very capable if I recall right. But weight is often the limiting factor. Adding weight to a starter loco for better traction works well imo.
Look at an RMT "Beep" (a "mini" GP or "GEEP") . It is a dc motor at the heart if you can find one without a reverse board.
(I think one of these was originally based on a build off Lionel parts for a dummy loco made as a trailer/flat car load vs for track use).
Pre-war and post war steam switchers or even modern takes on one are top shelf choices.
You might like the Kickapoo Valley& Nortern. Toyish bobber cars (but cool) and plastic shell. Big stack gives an older look. No whistle, I don't think smoke, but does have a light, ac motor etc. (it will still reverse itself "ionel style" run on dc)
0-4-0 or 0-6-0 steam are my favs. (adding weight does wonders)
Short cars start at 7" for cranes; 8" for boxcars, flats, gondolas, tanks, etc.; 8.5" fishbelly, hoppers; 9.5"-10" long flats, gondolas, 3 dome tanks, etc.
The larger O (wider, taller) start at about 10".
I think the best diesel for O27 are the early 1950's NW2's. Near scale size. Magetraction. George Jetson and Gomez Addams proof. Fits tight trackage.
The NW2 can sometimes actually turn down to 0-21 (I haven't tested ALL of the NW2s, but a few at least- 2 styles of early PW 1 MPC 1 Modern
The majority of PW cars can actually turn 0-21. By 0-19 some steps get in the way, but the geometry for 10-12" cars still isn't stalling the rolling.
How about a 520 boxcab or gas offspring with some added weight and GG-1 pant.s ?
The little 0-2-0 0-4-0 in this set is really tiny.
https://www.worthpoint.com/wor...press-set-1840616633
Edit: Thanks for others pointing out my wheel arrangement error.
K-Line made a Plymouth diesel that might fit your needs. Barely 5 inches long, has lights and a real good smoke unit, plus there is a speed control in the electronics so you can't make it fly off the track. 
It comes with both lobster claw couplers and scale couplers, I put on the scale ones and added a little weathering to mine.
@third rail posted:K-Line made a Plymouth diesel that might fit your needs. Barely 5 inches long, has lights and a real good smoke unit, plus there is a speed control in the electronics so you can't make it fly off the track.
It comes with both lobster claw couplers and scale couplers, I put on the scale ones and added a little weathering to mine.
That K Line Plymouth, which I don't have, sounds ideal.
Thanks for all of this great advice.
My current AC Scout engine has no problems taking the tight 027 curves at medium speed, so I am not looking for shorter engines to prevent derailment.
But, in my experiences, the shorter the cars and engine, the longer the train looks. And, on small layouts, those larger 027 engines seem to "eat-up" the layout with their size. (They look "over grown" for the size of the layout.)
I have decided to run DC only to my tracks, since the Scout engine runs smoothly and like new on the DC track. So, I appreciate the advice of both AC engines and DC engines.
Thanks,
Mannyrock
I think Lionel's 0-6-0 docksider with whistle and smoke would be a more reliable choice. And the newer ones come with a remote.
Manny, as you must realize, I have a small layout and run it on DC. I totally agree that smaller sized locomotives and rolling stock look better.
I really like the K-Line S-2 switcher, also remade and with improved motors and looks by RMT, though the RMT versions are much harder to find these days and much pricier. The K-Line S-2 draws its' origins from the MARX trains version, which though a little more primitive in construction, is a reliable switcher also. The Lionel NW-2, though it runs on 027 curves, is nearly scale in basic proportion and is larger in size than the K-Line S-2. Same goes for the K-Line MP-15: Though NOT a scale engine by current standards, it is nearly scale in basic proportions. It will run on 027 curves, but again I prefer the S-2. Although I do have some MP-15's. I've also used the motor frame of the MP-15 for some custom kitbashes.
The K-Line Alco FA is also another good choice. Smaller and yet to good proportions, it it is based on the Lionel version and has its' origins from the original tooling made by Kusan. The nice thing about the K-Line version over the Lionel is the intact front skirting and the added details. Though the Lionel versions with dual DC can motors don't "growl" as much as the K-Line versions might do on 027 curves.
Not to be overlooked is the STARTER SET version of the MTH F-3, later re-branded by MTH as a Rugged Rails engine. With dual vertical DC motors, it is a powerful runner that runs on 027 curves. You can always removed any added circuit boards if you wanted to run on straight DC... though you can run them as is on AC. The early versions of this engine came with a horn only. It is far shorter than a scale proportioned F-3, which is what I really like about it. A good engine choice for adding a little variety to your motive power.
I shy away from the early DC motored version of the Industrial Switcher. It has a very small motor called the Hustler motor with a plastic gear off the motor. The version first introduced in 1993 has a larger DC motor and circuit board reverse allowing it to run either AC or DC. I add self adhesive weights to mine and they have no trouble pulling a 10 car train.
The K-Line starter version Pacific 4-6-2 is another nice 027 engine. Though it is longer, the width and height is compressed so it doesn't look out of place on a small 027 layout. The gearing makes it a very smooth and powerful runner. The Seuthe smoke unit K-Line used is the weak point of these, and often doesn't work when you find them used, and isn't worth replacing. This K-Line steamer also has its' origins with MARX tooling, which was improved upon by K-Line.
The Lionel 44 ton switcher is hardly scale... it's too big to be scale. Caution here: There is NOW also a scale version from MTH and Williams. Anyways, the starter set/traditional version I consider as just a center cab switcher. With a length just over 11 inches, it's another suitable choice for small layouts as a mainline engine. The postwar versions are usually bargain priced, and the modern era ones have dual DC can motors... for some reason all the modern era starter type Lionel NW-2 switchers only had a single DC can motor. The delrin plastic handrails Lionel made for the modern era version are the weak point of this engine. For some reason, even brand new out of the packaging, they're usually warped.
I prefer the smaller MPC steamers over the current Lionel dockside and 0-8-0 switcher. Lionel is currently using a very small motor in these which is prone to failure, and the motors are often out of stock at Lionel.
The small MPC steamers come with an AC open frame motor assembly, which is EASILY switched to the same size motor frame assembly, only the newer one with a blackened frame (unlike the silver from MPC) and a DC motor. Lionel has made a few times, a 2-4-0 of MPC origins with a DC motor and the reverse circuit board in the tender connected by a wire tether. I disregard that set up and run mine on straight DC. By adding self adhesive weights inside the frame, these easily pull a 10 car train.
Another one for variety is the K-Line RDC Budd car, also remade and greatly improved by RMT. Unlike the RMT S-2, the Budd car (RMT called their version the "Buddy") is easier to find and not as pricey. Once again, based upon original MARX tooling, it was made to run and look better on 027 curves. The RMT version was made in far more roads than the K-Line version, and among other improvements, has directional headlights and some have a flashing strobe light.
OH and I forgot, the tried and true starter set Lionel 4-4-2 steam engine and the closely related 2-4-2 version. These are basically modern updated Scout engines but with a DC motor, die cast shell and an operating smoke unit. Most though not all, had whistle tenders. The previous CEO's of Lionel Richard Kughn and Dick Maddox both said the Lionel 4-4-2 starter sets OUTSOLD all the other Lionel train sets all combined, which is another way of saying - outside of track - it was probably the best selling Lionel item for many years. That means replacement parts are not too hard to find, even if it means sometimes buying a second one for the parts (which is sometimes more economical). A reliable engine that looks great on 027 curves. The modern versions have no trouble pulling a 10 car train, unlike some of the postwar versions.
And using the Premium Lionel smoke fluid in these 4-4-2's will put out more smoke than you ever imagined these little guys could do. The difference in smoke output between the regular and Premium smoke fluid is quite noticeable - if you like that feature.
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The one drawback to DC power to the track is I find you have to be more diligent about cleaning the track and the locomotive wheels. Someone more expert on electrical matters told me that DC current tends to (and I can't remember how or why) attract more grime to the rails.
Whatever the reason, I do find this is a reality. But I find the advantages of DC power for smaller engines good enough to live with having to clean track a little more regularly. And whenever I put a new loco on the track, first thing I do is check the grease on the gears and the wheels to see how clean they are. So basic maintenance has now become habit for me.
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If you haven't looked, click on the link at the bottom of my posts to see some of my creativity with smaller 027 rolling stock and engines.... maybe it will inspire you too, which is why I posted it.
The K-line plymouth diesel or K-line porter steam engine are some the best locos you can get in a small package. I have a Plymouth. Great weight/traction for it's size, really nice smoke unit. Although no horn, and I believe the couplers are non-operating. My wife got me the one I have as a present. I don't run it often but every time I do I think about her going out of her comfort zone into a hobby shop to get something just for me!
@rplst8 posted:The little 0-2-0 in this set is really tiny.
That's an 0-4-0. A friend of mine has an 0-2-0 in HO though. I bought it for him as a gift for being the best man at my wedding. He likes oddball items. The included photo is not from his layout, but one of the sales ones. Anyway, this in O, with a short tender, would probably do well on curves
Regarding train cars, you can't do wrong with Lionel Postwar operating coal dump cars and Sunoco 2 dome oil tanker cars. They are short in length and will make you train look longer on a modest sized layout.
Arnold
For newer "shorty" cars there is also Lionel's disconnect series. There are some log cars and little cabin cars all built over a single truck assembly a.k.a. a logging disconnect. They are pretty neat looking.
I don't have many short locos, but I do like this one. It's a PW Celebration Air Force switcher rom some years back that I recently repainted.
I am not usually fond of the Pullmor motor-equipped stuff, but this thing will run slowly-ish, is built like a tank, has TMCC, directional headlights and Electrocouplers. It has a "sound package", too - all that native electro-mechanical AC motor ambiance, if you like that sort of thing. I just tolerate it. ("What? Speak up a bit".)
And it is just "all et up with" cute.
I'm a big fan of the K-line Plymouth's, great pullers for their size. Lionel's 0-6-0 Docksider is a good choice along with the 0-4-0 Docksider from MTH.
As Brian stated the K-line S-2 is a solid engine as well.
Don't forget the PW Lionel Alco 200 series and the MPC version...they were made for 027...
Williams imports an NW2. With 2 motors.
PW, MPC, and Williams Geems will do O27. But it looks like an SP SD45T-2 as a yard switcher.
@rplst8 posted:The little 0-2-0 in this set is really tiny.
I have that set. One caveat. It is DC. A fun little set still.
You know, another way to take this is tinplate. 610 series passenger cars are pretty small. Between Flyer O gauge, Marx original and "new Marx", and of course lionel, there are plenty of smaller cars to go around.
Take a look at a Marx 1998 diesel. It is small and the I believe the best running Marx loco and even Lionel.
Charlie
Maybe one of you guys can take a look at the Marx Lehigh Valley Switcher 112 engine. It is DC, but looks exactly like an AC model they made.
Yes, the shell is almost all red colored, cheap plastic look. But, I can get one for about $25 bucks, and it is just dying for a spray paint job of flat black and some decals.
Interesting that all of the descriptions say it is an O gauge, not an O27. But, it is an 0-4-0, and those wheels are really close together, so I think they are calling it an O gauge, instead of O27, because it orginally came in a train set with long box cars.
Several of the engines you have suggested are definitely on my wish list. Love that Plymouth. But, at the prices they go for, I will have to wait for now. (Hard to tell your wife that you are starting a new hobby, and then plunk down big cash up front. Better to ease her into your spending, like the frog in boiling water.)
Thanks.
Mannyrock
The pre 6464 9.5 inch boxcars look good. And the early ones have detail the 6464's miss.
I think L is making a bid mistake going to O36 sets. Many people O27 is max for curves. Need FT in O27.....
I will throw in the PW 1615
What about the Lionel 4-4-0 Texas and General with cow catchers with short tenders.
One problem you'll run into with the K-Line Plymouth or the K-Line Porter is the tiny motor is not very reliable. I keep a spare on hand as I've replaced a bunch of those when they have been cooked. One thing is for sure, running either the Plymouth or Porter, the trains will be short, they won't pull anything more than three or four modern boxcars, and struggle with a pair of PW boxcars due to the greater rolling resistance. If you overload those, that's when the motor is in real jeopardy.
Can't go wrong with a postwar NW-2 switcher with magnetraction or a modern Williams (or Williams by Bachmann) NW-2 with dual motors. They're fairly short, about 12", and strong pullers.
@CarGuyZM10 posted:That's an 0-4-0. A friend of mine has an 0-2-0 in HO though. I bought it for him as a gift for being the best man at my wedding. He likes oddball items. The included photo is not from his layout, but one of the sales ones. Anyway, this in O, with a short tender, would probably do well on curves
Argh... I usually pride myself on knowing Whyte notation and the cooresponding class names!
I purchased the K-Line Plymouth set that Hobby Lobby sold however, I must have pushed it to its extreme cause it quit working (all except for the smoker!) so then I purchased a motor and board but have yet to finish putting everything back in.
that was 8 years+,- ago, so at the age of 77 I don’t know...!!
Here's a couple of videos of some of my small switchers.
One is a WbB NW-2 and K-line S-2
The other is a pair of K-line Plymouth's pulling a collection of post war and MPC cars. Neither is struggling with these consists.
As you can see I have a very small layout and small locos rule the ROW.
I got a Western Pacific Plymouth from K-Line several years ago. I understood from the outset not to overdo the small motor, and the bit of a load shown here was done just for the pic. I love this little loco and what a great job they did with green/red lantern sidelights! 
Thanks for the warning about K-line motors. They are now off my list.
I gotta tell you guys, that this O gauge stuff is really foreign to me. All of these precautions for blowing fuses, and engine motors burning out.
I had a huge HO layout, which I built from age 12 to 17. I ran all of the trains at high speeds, with long trains. Mostly two at a time.
In that entire 5 years, I never once blew a fuse or burned out a motor. My transformer had a screw in type fuse in the side, and honestly, I didn't even know what it was for.
So, why is O gauge so electronically delicate. Is it because they run on AC?
Mannyrock
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