What to fasten Atlas track to Bridgeboss beams

I used gorila glue on my bridge boss subway and the track has never come loose.  Zip ties would be visible.

You don't specify the bridge length. I have a 36-inch truss bridge on one of my layouts. I use a piece of 40-inch Atlas-O straight track to span the bridge. The track lays on top of the longitudinal bridge beams without any attachment to the beams. The bridge track is fastened to the roadbed with one Atlas-O track screw on each end. It is also connected (with Atlas-O track connectors) to the adjacent 10-inch straight tracks on either side of the bridge track - which are fastened to the cork roadbed with Atlas-O  track screws. This setup has been trouble-free for 18 years. I also have a 24-inch truss bridge spanned by three 10-inch Atlas-O straight tracks which just lay on top of the bridge beams without any attachment. The adjacent 10-inch straight tracks on either end are fastened to the roadbed with Atlas-O track screws. This setup has been in use for 4 years without a problem. In my experience, the adjacent track sections hold the bridge track in position and the bridge track does not have to be fastened to the beams. Some pictures of the 36-inch bridge and tracks shown below.

MELGAR

MELGAR posted:

You don't specify the bridge length. I have a 36-inch truss bridge on one of my layouts. I use a piece of 40-inch Atlas-O straight track to span the bridge. The track lays on top of the longitudinal bridge beams without any attachment to the beams. The bridge track is fastened to the roadbed with one Atlas-O track screw on each end. It is also connected (with Atlas-O track connectors) to the adjacent 10-inch straight tracks on either side of the bridge track - which are fastened to the cork roadbed with Atlas-O  track screws. This setup has been trouble-free for 18 years. I also have a 24-inch truss bridge spanned by three 10-inch Atlas-O straight tracks which just lay on top of the bridge beams without any attachment. The adjacent 10-inch straight tracks on either end are fastened to the roadbed with Atlas-O track screws. This setup has been in use for 4 years without a problem. In my experience, the adjacent track sections hold the bridge track in position and the bridge track does not have to be fastened to the beams. Some pictures of the 36-inch bridge and tracks shown below.

MELGAR

 A lot to take in here. Thanks a lot for the input. I kind of think I might run hardwood across the beams every 24 inches or so, and use Atlas screws to fasten the track down. 

Does your bridge have beams running across the bridge directly beneath the rails? Have a close look at my third picture to see what I mean. If so, just lay your track atop those beams and fasten the track to the roadbed with one track screw on either side of the bridge. The adjacent tracks on either side of the bridge, which are fastened to the roadbed, will hold the bridge track in position. The weight of a locomotive will simply push the bridge track down more tightly onto the longitudinal support beams. The track structure itself is sufficiently rigid to prevent it from moving. Try it before you do anything else. Your train and track will not fall off the bridge.

MELGAR

Can you post a picture of your bridge?

MELGAR

Try two sided carpet tape. It’ll hold the track firmly and not very visible. 

What does Bridgeboss say?

I have a single track, Plastruct 30" truss bridge with a single piece of Gargraves track spanning the bridge.  The bridge track is secured by the approach tracks at each end which are themselves zip tied to Lionel "A" trestles for an elevated loop.  Basically, the same as Melgar; and the bridge track doesn't move.

Aesthetically, having no zip ties or other attachments for the track to the bridge is part of the appeal of a prototypical truss bridge with its exposed members supporting the track.

If Bridgeboss says you don't need any attachments, I'd go with their advice.

But it's your railroad, and your locomotives and rolling stock, so do what YOU want.

We use clear bathroom chalk every now and then.... Easy to pull up if you need to change something..... 

MELGAR posted:

Can you post a picture of your bridge?

MELGAR

Not a bridge.  It is a simple 36” radius oval about 12 feet long.  As simple as that.

Pingman posted:

What does Bridgeboss say?

I have a single track, Plastruct 30" truss bridge with a single piece of Gargraves track spanning the bridge.  The bridge track is secured by the approach tracks at each end which are themselves zip tied to Lionel "A" trestles for an elevated loop.  Basically, the same as Melgar; and the bridge track doesn't move.

Aesthetically, having no zip ties or other attachments for the track to the bridge is part of the appeal of a prototypical truss bridge with its exposed members supporting the track.

If Bridgeboss says you don't need any attachments, I'd go with their advice.

But it's your railroad, and your locomotives and rolling stock, so do what YOU want.

Jim with Bridgeboss recommended hot glue gun.  No way that will be successful.  Glue would be set before manipulating the track joining.

Use Steve's ( Mr Muffin) suggestion of clear bathroom Caulk  ( Not Chalk ).  It takes a little while to set so you can manipulate the track and its clear so you cant see it  Thats what we used on over 600 feet of elevated sections.  We changed it up on our elevated subway though.  Unlike Bridgeboss' elevated ours has a 1/4 inch cross piece and we were able to get track screws in it

I just lay the track across the bridge deck or beams, on top of cork roadbed. Several done this way, longest is a 30" MTH arch. Track is fastened either side of the bridge, but not to the deck itself. Works just fine. Heck, where's it going to go?

Rod

Bryant, I ask this tongue in cheek:  "Did Bridgeboss recommend the glue gun AFTER they said no attachment of track to bridge was necessary?"

As the question was posed earlier, it the rigid section of the Atlas bridge-crossing track is secured by approach tracks at both ends of the bridge, where is the bridge track going to go?

I dont think many here understand what Brideboss elevated looks like   This is a picture of it on Rich Battista layout   Its not a truss bridge

As Melgar requested earlier, a picture might clear things up, somewhat.

John H posted:

As Melgar requested earlier, a picture might clear things up, somewhat.

This is the original post

I just completed my loop. I am now getting ready to lay the atlas track along the beams. I was considering using simple zip ties or wire ties around a track tie to fasten around crossmember on the beams.  Removable and solid.  Any thoughts.  I like to do things 6 or 7 times instead of 11 or 12.

Its a loop of elevated track like the picture I posted

MELGAR posted:

Can you post a picture of your bridge?

MELGAR

I will take a picture when I go back in the train room

bluelinec4 posted:

I dont think many here understand what Brideboss elevated looks like   This is a picture of it on Rich Battista layout   Its not a truss bridge

OK that is different from what I envisioned. If you are going to be able to change and modify it, glue is likely not a good choice. Screws might work but it may be hard to hit the beams. Your idea of zip ties may be best; small inconspicuous black ones should work well. Perhaps every 24" or so should do it.

Rod

John H posted:

As Melgar requested earlier, a picture might clear things up, somewhat.

See above.  Wire ties seem to make the most sense.  Since it is a closed oval I think screws at the 2,4,8 & 10 positions ( think clock face)should lock it in position and also keep joints closed.

Hi Bryant. 

I didn't realize you were have a problem attaching the track to the track support beams. I believe I had mentioned to you that I have about 200 feet of the EL on my layout and have not fastened or attached the track at all. I use Atlas track which is heavier than other manufactures which tends to keep it in place wo much movement. The only place I would recommend attaching the track would be at curves where inertia would tend to move the track over a period of time. Methods of attachment are the use of brown zip ties, Hot Glue, Two sided tape. Im sure there are other methods that I not aware of. As far as Glue, I recommend the Hot glue because it can be easily heated in order to remove the track as needed at some future date. Also, the track would only need to be fastened every few feet. I think the use of super glue might be ok as long as only small dabs are used. Hope this helps. See below a few closeup views of typical track placement on the EL. Hope this helps and appreciate everyone else that has added there ideas to this thread,

Jim r 

Sorry if I misled you. I did not realize your oval is on an elevated transit line. Now I understand your comment:

Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

I kind of think I might run hardwood across the beams every 24 inches or so, and use Atlas screws to fasten the track down. 

You could do it that way but here is a similar alternative that I think would be simpler.

Cut 1/4-inch square basswood strips to the exact width between the bridge beams (approximately 2 inches, let's say). Drill a small hole in the center of the strip to accept the end of an Atlas-O track screw. Then insert a track screw into the top of a tie (through an existing hole) and put the basswood strip beneath the tie so that the screw goes through the tie and into the basswood strip. Then tighten the screw so that the strip is held to the bottom of the tie. You can then put the track down atop the beams and the basswood strip will fit between the beams and prevent the track from moving laterally. Do this all around the oval with one strip under each track piece. This will allow you to lift the track off the layout if necessary. Paint the strips brown and they will not be visible. You also could just glue the basswood strips to the bottom of the ties (with epoxy?) and forget the track screws. I don't think it's necessary to fasten the track to the beams. Please post some pictures of whatever you decide to do.

Nice looking layout. Good workmanship.

MELGAR

Picture is great! Nice looking layout.