Or do you need to add any? I don't want engines to stall on switches. Bear in mind I don't like trying to solder wired to track as sometimes I have trouble so don't want to if don't need to. These are all the 11 degree regular Ross switches, some are old.
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You don't need to add any if they are the "Ross Ready" version. With these he wires them through so you don't have to worry. You will need to test them to see if they are wired through. If you turn them over you should be able to see the "jumpers" he used.
Ross Ready doesn't power the two dead rails. If you have anything larger than the 1xx or 2xx switches, you may want to consider powering the dead rails to prevent stalls on the switches. With configurations like the Ross Double-Slip Switch, powering those rails is mandatory if you don't want lots of stalls on the switch. Also, I've found that the curved switches also are problematic unless they're powered.
The two rails I've marked in red on this curved switch are unpowered. I'll be adding my new relay board to switch both of these between the outside rail and the middle rail, depending on the path. The white and blue wire you see there are connected to those rails. Similar switches on my layout are a problem without relay switching with small motorized stuff as well as the always troublesome MTH 3-rail/2-rail switchable engines.
Ross has published information about switching the dead rails using the DZ-1008 or similar relay.
Attachments
Ross doesn't add wiring to the two inner rails because without a relay where would they go. Also non-derailing wiring is not there as well.
So the term "Ross-Ready" is a tad misleading and confusing. . . .
I guess "Ross Ready" to Steve means what he thinks is a switch ready for use.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Ross Ready doesn't power the two dead rails. If you have anything larger than the 1xx or 2xx switches, you may want to consider powering the dead rails to prevent stalls on the switches. With configurations like the Ross Double-Slip Switch, powering those rails is mandatory if you don't want lots of stalls on the switch. Also, I've found that the curved switches also are problematic unless they're powered.
The two rails I've marked in red on this curved switch are unpowered. I'll be adding my new relay board to switch both of these between the outside rail and the middle rail, depending on the path. The white and blue wire you see there are connected to those rails. Similar switches on my layout are a problem without relay switching with small motorized stuff as well as the always troublesome MTH 3-rail/2-rail switchable engines.
Ross has published information about switching the dead rails using the DZ-1008 or similar relay.
Given that my first order of ross track just showed up, this is timely. In that first diagram, is that the switch controller with the R C I on it? I am just starting to figure out this is a very different world than the old days of tinplate track.
@bigkid posted:Given that my first order of ross track just showed up, this is timely. In that first diagram, is that the switch controller with the R C I on it? I am just starting to figure out this is a very different world than the old days of tinplate track.
Yes, that’s the control button. It’s actually R C L. Right, common, Left. Everything else like non-derail and powering dead rails are for the end user to wire up. If you are not having engines stalling or don’t need non- derail then you are all set. Enjoy.