I have seen two different ways of the building the bench work and laying track. They are as follows:
1.) Lay plywood flat over framing and then rest elevated supports with track on top of Plywood over table top.
2.) Attach elevated track supports directly framing, and attach track bed to supports
I am wondering which way is the better way to go between the two, especially when track noise is to be considered. Which way did you build yours and why?
Thanks,
Joe
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Large expanses of plywood act like a the head of a drum to amplify rolling train sound. Elevated supports on a table top will definitely be noisier than roadbed on risers that are screwed to the layout benchwork. In my experience, Homasote glued on top of the plywood also deadens noise a lot. My layout is built from a 1/2" Homasote on top of plywood (almost all 1/2") supported by risers off the benchwork.
anybody use this?
http://www.homabed.com/site/890800/page/494804
I see 2 different angles. I'm thinking the 60 degree would be best?
Joe thank you for the link.
Clem k
Joe, I also manufacture Homasote roadbed, cascaderailsupply.com. To answer your specific question about bevels, 45 degree has historically been the industry standard. Cork, Woodland Scenics and all other products that I am aware of all use a 45 degree bevel. This includes both my products and the Homasote roadbed from California Roadbed (the link in your post). However, almost all prototypical roadbed calls for a 2:1 ratio on the ballast shoulders. This a 30 degree (my designation) or 60 degree (California Roadbeds') shoulder. The only other source of this bevel angle I am aware of is from Flexxbed. Using this angle gives several advantages: It is more realistic, you will use less ballast than you will with a 45, and it will also be easier to ballast as getting ballast to stick around that 45 degree angle can sometimes be a real pain. The only real disadvantage is that the roadbed is wider. Assuming you are using roadbed that is .25" thick then the 30 degree bevel will be .5" wider. I hope this helps with your decision.
A friend of mine is constructing a very large HO layout. He has experienced very slow delivery on orders from California Roadbed. He placed an order with Cascade Rail Supply and received the product promptly. For what it's worth...
I have seen two different ways of the building the bench work and laying track. They are as follows:
1.) Lay plywood flat over framing and then rest elevated supports with track on top of Plywood over table top.
2.) Attach elevated track supports directly framing, and attach track bed to supports
I am wondering which way is the better way to go between the two, especially when track noise is to be considered. Which way did you build yours and why?
Thanks,
Joe
I attempted one way and found out the hard way that its better to use a modified version of both.
Use L-girder for ease of manipulation.
Use Cookie-cutter roadbed in high scenic areas
Use full sheeting for yards and towns.
And the #1 thing ive learned... DON'T just build above the bottom rails, build a layout that goes below them.
Wow everyone, that for all of the great input.
Bob, so it appears from your pics that you put the Hoamasote on the elevated sections. Did you also use that on the lower areas that are at tabletop height?
Jacob - I am not sure I understand you last sentence about building below. It sure would be seeing a video from start to finish on the complete process. I am wondering if this is what is included in Rich Batista's Toy Train on Tracks Blue Ray??
JoeG
Joe, I used Homasote on all of the plywood. My main line is on cork roadbed glued to the Homasote. Sidings and yard tracks are laid directly on the Homasote.
Here is an illustration of Jacob's point about building below track level. In this benchwork photo, you can see some track on tall risers above the level of the benchwork. The lower tracks beneath the risers will become hidden staging.
Here is that same area with scenery "above the tracks" between the tracks and the wall.
Finally, scenery is added below track level to complete the scene. You can't get this look with a flat table and risers only above the table.
Joe, I used Homasote on all of the plywood. My main line is on cork roadbed glued to the Homasote. Sidings and yard tracks are laid directly on the Homasote.
Here is an illustration of Jacob's point about building below track level. In this benchwork photo, you can see some track on tall risers above the level of the benchwork. The lower tracks beneath the risers will become hidden staging.
Here is that same area with scenery "above the tracks" between the tracks and the wall.
Finally, scenery is added below track level to complete the scene. You can't get this look with a flat table and risers only above the table.
Right on. And vary it. I'm in the process of ripping out joists to achieve this look in a section - wish I had the ability to do it elsewhere.
Boy a lot to think about and design before I jump in with both feet. I hate re-doing anything let alone this, so the track plans and bench work design is going to take a lot of thought.
I have noticed that watching some of the TMBV dvd's and reading some of the OGR articles some people build scenery modules in a separate shop/work area and when complete, they move to the layout room and plug into the area where it was made to fit.
Not sure if I will be able to make that work for me. It makes a lot of sense, as I also want to have a couple of trap doors to get to areas out of reach. I am only running loops and no switches.
Bob - I noticed in the pics above, your top level appear to be 10-12 inches or more. How are you planning on running the scenery off of this? Maybe stapling a screen to the track support area, and plastering?
JoeG
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