Williams by Bachmann scale Hudson repaint

Why do you want to strip the paint? Paint sticks better to paint that is already in place, than it does to bare metal. You could scuff up the existing paint with steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper and repaint.

RoyBoy is correct do not strip the entire locomotive, ................no need, use 600 or finer to remove cab numbers or other paint detail you want gone, ....I use gray automotive scotchbrite pads cut down to the size I need to scuff the existing finish.....first and foremost before any scuffing, make sure the entire area is clean free of oils, smoke fluids or grease....after you have washed the boiler with soapy water, wipe down with rubbing alcohol........   

Yep - the best primer can be factory paint. Stripping model paint is not something I ever do. 

I would spray it with a plain flat gray primer - or even flat black - after you have taken care of the lettering/numbers/striping - and wiped/washed it as suggested above. Primer is flat to give the surface more tooth.

I usually use acetone (fingernail polish no longer works, so far as I know) to remove numbers/letters on metal models only, but if you can remove them with fine sandpaper (as above), that's OK, too.

BTW, the loco is cast from a zinc alloy (Zamak is a trade name for some of it), as is almost every other modern cast RR model that is not brass.  

RoyBoy posted:

Why do you want to strip the paint? Paint sticks better to paint that is already in place, than it does to bare metal. You could scuff up the existing paint with steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper and repaint.

AGREED....all my repaints are over old paint......as long as it is stable and intact.  Auto shops don't strip a entire car to the metal with repairs.  Soften the edges, paint break lines and logos....prime, paint.......all these were done this way....

I'm not a model painter but I have had a lot of success with furniture. Please be carful of steel wool, it does a good job but has an ugly record sticking in wood fibers or, in your case finding it's way back onto your work surface due to static electricity.

Like I said it works but special attention must be given to controlling it.

Have fun, I like the idea of not stripping the old paint. It just sounds smart to me.  

Nice work Dave!

funny this post got put up today, Ive been painting 3 mth locos over their factory finishes all day today, cleaned, scuffed and shot with 2k urethane hot rod black.....smooth as silk.....