Williams does it again!!!

You should check ANY new locomotive, regardless of manufacturer, for proper lubrication before running. Lionel and MTH have also been known to ship engines with dry gears.

I'd like to make sure I understand what to do as I have a bunch of these stump pullers.

 

So, correct my steps if anything I state is not accurate, or I miss something....

 

1. Remove shell
2. Remove can motors
3. Apply grease to gears on motor
4. Apply grease to gears on truck that motor gears mesh with when in operation.
5. Reattach motors
6. Reattach shell
7. Grease exposed gears (per WBB instruction sheet)
8. Oil wheel points (per WBB instruction sheet)
9. Test run

 

So, what type of grease do I use for the 'gear wells' - the same type I use when I grease the gears that I are visible in the trucks when I turn the assemble train over to expose its belly (I use the white stuff that looks like toothpaste in a white and orange tube) ?  If not this stuff, then what?

 

Thanks for the posting too.

 

 

 

 

Popi,

I had the same issue with the Alco FA-1 set I purchased earlier this year. If it wasn't for the Forum, I would have done the usual external lube points that are in the owners manual and called it good.

As I have explained to my wife and daughter many times, "new does not mean correct".

You nailed it John!

Did you check the gear with your finger? Wiliams and Lionel are using a "wet sticky" oil for lubing. You would not see any grease with this lube.

John;

I vote for Red N Tacky #2, It stays on the gears VS slinging off at speed.

Just a bit will do, you don't want to fill the well.

Over greasing will block air flow to cool the gears, also a bad thing.

Ive been using white lithium grease

with good results for years.

I use a food injector bought at Walmart

for $3.00. fill it with grease and Viola!

Instant grease gun for toy trains!!!

 

I have noticed many of the Forum members

reverting to the "Red and Tacky" stuff I have heard about.

sounds very interesting.

My father-in-law (RIP), used automotive transmission oil for

years.

just a side note!!!

 

I robbed one of the motors and power truck

 out of the FA powered unit,

and mounted it in the dummy unit with a

bridge recitifier so I have two powered units

that will run together or I can run two trains.

 

much like I did with My F7 units

After reading this I took my D.T & I  gp 38 apart for inspection and it to was light on grease , I want to thank you Popi for the info . 

Always glad to help toy train guys keepin em up and running.

there is nothing more frustrating than getting to a show

and having your locomotives go on the blink. That's why I take

20-30 locomotives, so I can switch them out and I have a

work bench with me to service locos on site.

Good advice to check any new engine for proper lubrication.  It doesn't take much effort and can possibly save future problems from occurring.  Sometimes a brand new engine can sit around for a few years before being purchased and the grease/oil, etc. can dry out.  Still pays to check to be sure.

 

I remember, years ago, my Dad was on the fire department and they had recently taken delivery of a new Peter Pirsch fire engine.  Everything was great, for a while, and then one day, on the way to a fire, the rear end/differential seized up.  When they towed the engine to the repair shop, upon opening up the diff. case, it was completely dry!  No lubricant had ever been installed in the case!  Now, here's a case of a bit more money than a Williams or any other model locomotive and sometimes mistakes are made.  Best to check all these things before entering service.

 

Paul Fischer

Jim 1939,

 

In my case, both trucks were completed dry. My initial thought was that maybe another type of lubricant had been used.

 

But, your information will help me stay with the 'look and touch' inspection technique I use in aviation maintenance.

 

Thanks!

So, what type of grease do I use for the 'gear wells' - the same type I use when I grease the gears that I are visible in the trucks when I turn the assemble train over to expose its belly (I use the white stuff that looks like toothpaste in a white and orange tube) ?  If not this stuff, then what?

 I too recommend red & tacky. Many forumites use it and it's cheap. you can find it at any automotive parts store. one tube will last you a lifetime!

 

 

hello guys and gals............

 

I use Red & Tacky # 2 in my new S.F. Williams GP-9, Mine had very LITTLE grease when I open up the gear box and so I put in fresh Red & Tacky in it.  I put about 10 hours so far on it and its and very smooth engine !!!.  The Geep has good slow speed control after putting in Red & Tacky.

 

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678

Tiffany

I bought an F7 AA set, an FA-1 AA set, and a semi-scale Berhshire this year.

 

All the motors had grease in each of the gear cases, but in each and every one, it is was a small dollop not placed where the gears meshed together so the grease would not be spread.  As mentioned above, thanks to this forum  I knew to check all of the motors and add some lithium grease.

 

The consistency of the little bit of grease I found in each was much closer to wheel bearing grease.

Robert 

I have lots of older Williams running without problems. Purchased two new engines when a dealer had the 99 buck blowouts. One stripped a gear in a few hours. Yep, no, or not enough, gear lube.

 

At the Hong Kong Toy Show (every January) I pleaded with the Williams guy to add lube points on the bottom of their trucks, like Lionel did in the second year of 700E production. Just got a blank stare.

 

lubricating these engines is a PITA. I figure it would take week to do 15 engines