Wiring

I'd install the 022 fixed voltage power terminals ( not wired to power ) in the switches to isolate the switch mechanisms from track power and see if that makes a difference.  Also use an AC voltmeter between the transformer ground terminal ( U ) and center rail sections around the track to make sure you have power to all the center rails, then reverse it ( transformer power terminal and outer rails ) to look for ungrounded sections.   Basic diagnostics.

Just curious -

• Does the same problem occur on the 2 switches on the main oval if you disconnect the first switch in the sequence to the lower 3 service tracks, and, therefore power to that entire area?
• Have you tried switching switches 2 and 3  with any other switches (say that 3 times fast!) to see if the same problem occurs?

Michael

Two suggestions:

1. Using your trackplan document, please identify the exact location of all insulating pins for us and then show us exactly where your power connections to track are located.

2. Then, explain the purpose of each insulating pin (power control, anti-derail, other, etc.).

This will make it easier for the electrical experts to offer assistance.

Your problem description sounds like the engine is shorting out on the mainline switches, but only after you added the last 2 switches to your little yard.  That doesn't really make sense to me; maybe others can help.

Chuck

Gentlemen, I finally had a few minutes to scratch something over this.  The locomotive was dead in the water on every switch.  It could not get across a switch.  I whupped the voltmeter on it.  I was showing consistent 16.4 volts on a switch while the locomotive was sitting dead on another switch.  So I moved it forward off of the "Dead" switch  It came around and promptly died on the next switch, then the next switch.  Everything was always showing showing 16.4 volts.

I unhooked the locomotive from the rest of the cars and took it to a 16.4v switch. I watched it carefully.  Sure enough it stopped dead on the switch and I am still showing 16.4 volts.  I stopped the euphoria from scratching long enough to recover my senses and turn the locomotive upside down.  One pickup was stuck in the up position and was not seeing the first millivolt of anything, which explains why it was always dying on a switch.  I fixed that and presto-chango, it runs.

I congratulated myself, then kicked myself in the butt, then got a cold Shiner Boch and resumed scratching.

This has been one of the most frustrating projects I have ever undertaken.  It is not like it is hard.  I have just had an awful time getting everything to play together.  Now I begin screwing the track down and finishing the wiring.  Thank you for everyone's time and responses.  I feel like an idiot.

I thought I might give you a look at something that is a little unusual.  4x8 tracks take up quite a large amount of floor space.  I happen to have a 14 foot ceiling on this side of the garage.  I mounted an electric winch, then mounted the layout to a shelf using a heavy piano hinge.

When I am through I crank the winch up and the layout is out of the way.  Which explains why most of the layout will be nailed down.  What isn't nailed down will be removed before I raise it up.  I would show it up but need to nail the track down first.

And I need to stop and clean up the garage.

.

Great idea! You could even put a switch on the corner to run the train on to a shelf before you raise the layout.

Love the layout, you do nice work.

Don't feel badly about anything to do with wiring, for something relatively simple it can be a nightmare. I had one switch that I couldn't figure out why it worked sometime (It was a manual 027 switch) on both legs, but then the 'diverging' route would stop working. Turned out to be inside the switch the metal strip that brought power to the third rail had come loose enough it was just making contact..when it didn't.  And one thing I learned early with electrical stuff is if an engine is having trouble, try another one (if you have one) and see if it has the same problems.  The absolute worse is a situation where you do something innocent, it seems to be causing a problem, and then you find out the root cause was something completely different that failed, but you focus on the change you made.

Then there was the time the cat decided some wiring I hadn't had the time to bundle and secure it, was a really great toy.

@Eighthtry posted:

Gentlemen, I finally had a few minutes to scratch something over this.  The locomotive was dead in the water on every switch.  It could not get across a switch.  I whupped the voltmeter on it.  I was showing consistent 16.4 volts on a switch while the locomotive was sitting dead on another switch.  So I moved it forward off of the "Dead" switch  It came around and promptly died on the next switch, then the next switch.  Everything was always showing showing 16.4 volts.

I unhooked the locomotive from the rest of the cars and took it to a 16.4v switch. I watched it carefully.  Sure enough it stopped dead on the switch and I am still showing 16.4 volts.  I stopped the euphoria from scratching long enough to recover my senses and turn the locomotive upside down.  One pickup was stuck in the up position and was not seeing the first millivolt of anything, which explains why it was always dying on a switch.  I fixed that and presto-chango, it runs.

I congratulated myself, then kicked myself in the butt, then got a cold Shiner Boch and resumed scratching.

This has been one of the most frustrating projects I have ever undertaken.  It is not like it is hard.  I have just had an awful time getting everything to play together.  Now I begin screwing the track down and finishing the wiring.  Thank you for everyone's time and responses.  I feel like an idiot.

I thought I might give you a look at something that is a little unusual.  4x8 tracks take up quite a large amount of floor space.  I happen to have a 14 foot ceiling on this side of the garage.  I mounted an electric winch, then mounted the layout to a shelf using a heavy piano hinge.

When I am through I crank the winch up and the layout is out of the way.  Which explains why most of the layout will be nailed down.  What isn't nailed down will be removed before I raise it up.  I would show it up but need to nail the track down first.

And I need to stop and clean up the garage.

.

Interesting and nice Eighthtry,

I strongly suggest that you screw the tracks down rather than nail them, though.

Thanks for the complements.  I will screw the track down.....for the third time.  Nail was slang, so to speak.  I actually took it all apart one of those times to install new track thinking that was the problem.

I already rewired all of my switch controls. I will probably need to rewire all of the magnetic disconnects as well.

The wiring I am using is multicolored solid copper 7 wire sheathed cable.  Obviously in excess of what I need, but much easier to track color if the two ends is all I need to work from.  That was left over from a house I built 40 years ago.  I always wondered what I would use it for.

I wired 120 to a box attached to the wood track frame.  It has a combination on/off switch and plug combo. I wired the switch to also control the plug.  My transformer is wired into the switch.  The plug is for a 5 volt output DC charger to run my LED lighting on the track.  Once switch turns off everything.

Because it will be folding up I also have to screw down most of my layout bling.  That is solved using hard plastic wall covering.

This is my train set that was a Christmas present circa 1962.  My dad kept all of it.  He rebuilt it on a 4x8 sheet of 2x6 framed plywood for my kids.  In my last house I had a pulley system that dropped it down from the garage ceiling.

I added on to the layout, which was the beginning of my problems.   When I installed the winch I quickly figured out that it needed reinforcement.  There is no telling what it weights now.  One thing leads to two others.

And of course I had to glue ties to the track.  I found a glue called E 6000.  It is clear and somewhat flexible when dry, but one is not casually pulling a tie off.  It semi-sets in about 10 minutes, dries overnight.  I found out I could glue 8 ties on a 10 inch track in one minute.  It has plenty of other uses as well.  If you need glue this works for everything.  My wire's upholstery will get some next.

Now, no thanks to John H, I will try to figure out how to make these trains self parking on the shelves.  I have an idea.

@Eighthtry posted:

............And of course I had to glue ties to the track.  I found a glue called E 6000.  It is clear and somewhat flexible when dry, but one is not casually pulling a tie off.  It semi-sets in about 10 minutes, dries overnight.  I found out I could glue 8 ties on a 10 inch track in one minute.  It has plenty of other uses as well.  If you need glue this works for everything.......

Eighthtry,

I use good old hot glue to attach ties to elevated track. Sticks great. One needs to give them strong twist to remove them after the glue cools.

I like hot glue as I hate waiting for regular glue to dry!

I was planning on using hot glue as well.  I picked up this glue for another unrelated project and tried it.  I could put 24 dots down, then lay the ties.  I would carefully press them down, do any final adjustment, then set them aside.  Most actually dried for weeks before I got back to them.

It has been a real learning experience from the standpoint that I would think it through, put it in, then realized there was a better, more elegant way to do it.  Kind of like war.  You train, you drill, you plan, then the everything goes out the window when the battle starts.