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I am wiring in some a block signal on a wye, but am not sure where, or how many, gaps to cut. Here's what I'm trying to do. On the attached photo, a train comes in from the left on the straight track. The signal is that black thing in the upper left of the wye.  If the mainline - the curved track on the right side of the wye which is basically an 8 x 16 loop - is not clear, the signal glows red. Once the mainline clears, the signal will change from red to yellow to green.

As you can see, there are four Ross Ready switches in the immediate area of the wye, each with a DZ-1000 switch machine. I'm not certain if they will factor into this wiring problem or not. I may be overthinking this, but before I begin cutting gaps, I wanted to ask for some suggestions.

wye2

 

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Last edited by Rich Melvin
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My signals aren't up yet, but I have a few wyes on my layout, all wired for detection. I do that by using the three segments, one on each leg, nearest the center of the wye.

It looks like you have another switch in the one leg. That will leave little rail to no rail for detection, as you will need a ground signal for both outside rails on the switch. That leg will need two gaps on that rail to isolate the switch segment, and there will need to be a ground feeder to the switch segment. Since all the frogs are plastic, no other gaps are needed.

Your signal is actually in the wrong location. It should be outside the wye, further to the left, and indicate that the other leg is being used. If you really wanted to get fancy (and realistic), the signal would have 2 heads stacked. Red over red, stop. Green over red, straight leg. Red over green curved leg. Because you have a parallel route using that other switch, it is possible to occupy that leg with another train while still using the straight leg. Nifty arrangement!

Last edited by Big_Boy_4005

Thank you. I think I understand the wiring as you've described. Two heads stacked, eh? Based on all this, I think I'll move this one signal elsewhere where the wiring is easier and pick up a double headed signal to put at the wye. 

I'll probably still need some help wiring that when the time comes.

BTW, I'm attaching a photo of the layout to the left of the wye. The track with the fourth switch (on the left in the picture) leads through the bascule bridge to a small engine yard.

Jim

 

 

 

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Jim,

What type Signals is it ? Like is  MTH or Lionel   ?

Does your Signals have a circuit broad on the bottom or is just some wires coming out of IT ?

I will  need more information about the Signal Head before figure out what's going on here.

Also did  you know their is now time delay Relays out there on  E-bay and Amazon now too ! 

Good luck,John

Hi, John.

It's an old ROW signal with three wires coming from it. In fact, it's the same one that I asked about wiring using a non-ROW relay a few days ago. I wired it up on a test track and everything worked great and that gave me the encouragement to try a bigger/better/bolder situation; a situation that's probably a little bit more sophisticated than I am.

Jim

 

Jim, for wiring purposes they are all pretty much the same. Sounds like that one has a wire for the red bulb, one for the green bulb, and one wire common to both which may be connected to the signal structure itself. This is the way, postwar signals are wired. You'd need one relay for each red and green head. It only has to be as complicated as you want to make it. Once you get the first one down it gets easier.

Good morning,

My son and I were able to wire in the ROW signal near the location shown in the first picture.  And it works great. It's temporarily mounted on the table with masking tape and the wires will be easy to disconnect. We couldn't resist hooking it up to see if it would work. I'm now looking for a double stacked signal to replace it, but haven't decided on which one(s) to get: NJI or Z-Stuff. (any suggestions?) I'm also playing around with the idea of using a signal bridge at the base of the wye to signal the diverging routes.

We have evolved in our attitude towards signals. Originally we were looking at them as only window dressing, but we've realized that there's so much more we can do with them that we're developing a plan to use block and crossing signals throughout the layout. The upper level - not shown in the photo - is essentially a switching layout for a brewery complex. Based loosely on the Milwaukee Road Beer Line, it would benefit from some judiciously placed signals; particularly to show switch positions.

I dug out an old copy of Bruce Chubb's, How to Operate your Model Railroad   and the chapter on signals is very useful.

Thanks for asking,

Jim

Way to go Jim! I have that book and other stuff by Chubb, great material. Sounds like the "hook is set" on this signal business.

I'm not sure what John DeAlto has for sale, but it's worth a look. Also check out WeHonest on eBay. They have all kinds of signal stuff and it is rather inexpensive. Recently a forum member was showing off a cantilever bridge similar to your ROW, and it looked pretty nice, especially for the money. Also, they sell all the parts to make your signal heads. This is the route I've chosen to go.

Last edited by Big_Boy_4005

Good morning,

Thank you for the replies and the suggestions. I really like the signals Custom Signals offers and will contact Mr. Christopher. In fact, once we finish our plan for block, interlocking, and crossing signals, I will bounce it off him to see if it makes sense ... which it probably won't, but that's okay.

Does he set up at York?

Jim

 

 

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