Wiring a Train Room

I would recommend at least two or possibly three circuits for your train room.  Your lighting can share a circuit with some plugs that are "always live" or you can put lights and live plugs on separate circuits.  The "always live" circuit is useful for power tools, a shop vac, possibly a compact refrigerator, TV, whatever.

You'll want a separate circuit for layout power, with a wall switch containing a pilot light.  If that light is on, the layout has power.  When you leave the train room, flipping the wall switch turns the pilot light and all layout power off.  No worries about leaving a transformer turned on overnight.  Your layout won't use much power, so a 15 amp circuit is plenty.

I recommend you have a few layout power outlets around the room.  You'll want one near your control panel and some others so you can plug in auxiliary transformers for accessories, layout lighting, etc.

Hope this helps.

Yes, it helps.  OK, so I understand about the wall switch to turn the transformers off.  Good tip.

Do I need to wire all the "layout" plugs into that switch?  IE, the power for lighting and other accessories?  I think that might be a good idea.

I think I will scatter four or maybe six groups of plugs around the room.  Each group with four plugs, two that are hooked to the layout "off" switch, and two that are "live" for other uses.  

This will be a multi-use room.  We will have a bed in one area for guests, so they might need plugs they can use without the layout being powered.

So at the control panel area, will four plugs be enough?  I am thinking two large transformers, and two extra plugs for accessories?

Then I can scatter more plugs around the room if I need to power other areas of the layout.

Any electrician who is familiar with residential wiring will know where to place the basic receptacles, according to the NEC. (National Electric Code). That code requires that in any room that MIGHT be used for sleeping or habitation have a maximum distance of 6 feet from the nearest duplex receptacle along walls (in other words, one every twelve feet) and at least one receptacle on every wall that is wider than 24 inches. (NEC 210.52(A)1-4)

Also, "all branch circuits supplying 125-volt, 15 and 20 ampere outlets in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter, (AFCI) combination type, installed to provide protection of the branch circuit." (NEC 210.12(A) )  This is a new (relatively) requirement that really helps to limit fires in furnishings caused by plugs being pulled out of receptacles while powered.

And of course, one switched lamp fixture on the ceiling / wall, or one switched receptacle that feeds a table lamp, is required in every room, just for safety.

Anything beyond those minimal requirements, would be a receptacle or series of them at the point in the room where you are going to set up your main control panel.  Having that set of receptacles controlled by a main switch, (with a pilot light) is a good idea, so you can kill the whole setup at once.

Don't forget a smoke detector (or heat detector, if you plan to make a lot of smoke.)

I would ask him to provide one 15- or 20-amp circuit for the trains, and another for "everything else."

Martin, Arthur is correct with all his points. The only thing I could add would be HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) demands.

You been doing recon in my trainroom???? 

HVAC is covered, we just replaced the central AC in the house, and the portion of the attic with the train room will have conditioned air all year around.

After the plugs are in, we are going to foam the attic, which is supposed to significantly reduce our heating and cooling bill.

Prior to this renovation, the attic was 130 degrees in the summer, the foam is supposed to bring it down to 80 or 85, and I'll have the AC set for 78 once I start moving trains up there.  Drywall will be after foaming, then some built in storage cabinets will be installed under the 4 foot side walls.  The room is big, but the drawback is the slanting walls, and low ceiling.  The layout will have to be in the center of the room, so I can use the sidewalls to store train boxes, and Christmas decorations.  I will need to figure out how to make the layout modular, in case I ever have to move.  I am hoping to live in this house until I die, hopefully another 30 years or so, but you never know.

Back to electricity.  I understand the top photo, but I don't know what is in the plug in the bottom photo.  Can you explain what that is and what it does?

Thanks for all the suggestions.  The electrical code stuff is good to know.  I have a 50 inch wide wall downstairs that does not have a plug, and I always wished it did.  I might get the electrician to put one in and then pay to have the drywall repaired.

 "I understand the top photo, but I don't know what is in the plug in the bottom photo.  Can you explain what that is and what it does?"

It's a tester. You plug it in a standard outlet to check for wiring anomalies, such as open grounds, open neutrals, reversed polarities, and so on. Your electrician will most likely own several such devices.

Arthur is right on the mark.  I also think that now you must have a smoke alarm that is powered by house current as well as a battery, so make sure the electrician runs a wire to power it or have him install it for you, which is easy for him to do.  It may also be necessary to tie the smoke alarm in with other smoke alarms in your home.  I went through all this a few years back when I had an addition put on my house.  Have fun!

Mike

Thanks Jon.  I thought it might have been some sort of wireless remote control device.

Mike, my house was built in 2000, and we have wired smoke detectors in all the rooms downstairs, but none in the attic.  I will ask my electrician about putting one in the train room.  However, will I be able to run "smoke" in my steam engines?  or will the "smoke" set off the detector?

So much to think about, but I am glad I am finally getting my train room!

As Arthur mentioned, and depending on local codes, you may be able to install a heat sensor in place of a smoke detector. Heat sensors are common in commercial applications, especially in high dust environments.

 A lot of good advice here. Just remember the National Electrical Code is a guideline setting minimum standards. Your local building/electrical inspector has final say.

Comment ....not on the electrical but your layout plan. An attic is a good place to consider a round-the wall layout as opposed to an island type. Of course it depends much on the height of your knee walls?

Where I live we don't have building inspectors, but I have a good electrician, and I will make sure he knows I want it wired for safety first.

I am not currently home, but I think my knee walls are between 3.5 and 4 feet high.

I have always planned, and need, to build storage (some drawers and some cabinets with shelves) into the knee walls.  The roof slopes steeply above the knee walls, so I am not sure a round the wall layout will work.  There is also a window at one end, and a bay window/dormer halfway through one wall.  I'll have to measure the area think I can use for a layout, and probably have a 3 foot buffer between the layout and the walls.

I think I might be able to put a round the wall track in my home office.  About 7 foot high or so, but that would be at a later date.

My electrician installed a switch that kills everything when off. This way I don't have to walk around checking every plug.

Forgot to mention. I also installed an exhaust fan in the ceiling to help deal with the smoke.

Gilly

I am have gone too much...but here is what I did. All the circuits are on 15 amp breakers. My layout is 46 x 30, I have 8 180 watt bricks with 4 400 TPCs.

1 circuit for the bricks and the TPCs

1 circuit for all of the electrical outlets, with one transformer for all of the lights and accessories. The outlets are around the room about every 4 feet. Please realize that all of these outlets ARE NOT used at the same time. I just wanted to be able to have an outlet whenever I needed it. I did not want to drag around a bunch of extension cords.

1 Circuit for the overhead lighting

1 circuit that runs the small refrigerator and dehumidifier.

All of these circuit switches have red lights on them as someone suggested above. That way when as I am getting older and cannot see as well, I just have to look to make sure all of the red lights are out.

As I said, probably way too much, but it has worked for me for the last 8 or so years.

Realize that I did the very same thing you did, I ask the forum for suggestions and it always seems like someone is always one step ahead of me and this forum always gives great suggestions.

Enjoy the journey of building your new railroad empire.

Martin, with your wall receptacles spaced according to the National Electrical Code, your spacing will be fine.  Used 3 prong switched plug strips for transformers.

The best thing in my Run Room is one bank of wall switches for the whole room.  Lights and the bottom plugs of every duplex receptacle are controlled at the same place.

Your electrician can wire your duplex receptacles so the bottom socket is switched at the wall switch and top socket is always hot.  (Your transformers can be plugged into any of the switched sockets.)

Susan, I like your idea of having the bottom plugs on the wall switch.  That makes it less confusing to tell which plugs turn on and off.

Roger, I obviously need to do more reading.  I read a little about "bricks" using a search.  I get that they are transformers, but do they run trains or accessories?

I have no idea what a 400 TPC is or does.

So, my question for you is, do I need 12 wall outlets for all this stuff?

Or, can I use maybe 4 outlets with power strips with integrated circuit breakers?

Can you run 8 bricks and 4 400 TPCs on one 20 amp circuit?

I know I need to get "the book" and read all about it.

Can someone recommend the best, most up to date, "wiring a model train for idiots" book?

Most of my engines that I have collected over the years are MTH, although some are Lionel.  I want to be able to run both, but have not decided on track.  Heck, I am just trying to get a clue on how many plugs I need.

To summarize...

I think I need the following:

1)  One circuit for lights and a heat detector.

2)  One circuit for the train layout, that is hooked to a light switch.  It seems that the entire layout can be hooked up to a single 20 amp circuit in the fuse box?

3)  One circuit for everything else in the room.  Maybe a TV and cable box, a phone, and a small lamp or two.

I just measured the room, and I over estimated the size.

I am more than a little bummed.

The room is only 12' wide by 25' long, for the main part.  One end is a little longer, so I can have room to work and sit at the control panel at one end.  The sad part is I really need to leave 3' clearance on either side to be able to access and use the under knee wall storage.  I also need 2.5' of walkway at the far end where the window is located.

So sadly, that leaves me with a layout that is only 6' wide and 22.5' long.  I like the 22.5' long part, but the 6' wide part is a real bummer.  Perhaps, I could stretch it to 7' wide, but that is the absolute max.  So it looks like my outside curve will be 72 inches, and I was hoping for 3 curves with the outside being 80 or more.

Can I made a great layout with only 6' by 22.5' of table space?

The room is basically the attic above my 3 car garage, and the rest of the attic is unusable space due to AC ducting, roof beams, etc.  So I have what I have.  I just had no idea it would be so narrow.  I should have looked harder at the house plans and made my garage deeper so I could have a better train room.

The 6' width really limits you to very tight curve arcs. I don't know the type of storage space you need---are you storing trains and equipment or household stuff??

If you desire a practical layout I urge you to consider an around-the-wall operation and consider storing under your benchwork. 

Below is pictured a 9x16 attic layout [room is 9x19]that has 072/084 and 084/096 dual mainline curves. The benchwork is 41" high and 36" wide one side and 40" on the opposite side. There is a window in one end of the room and the entrance is in the other end.

There are kneewall access doors on each side which I cut off to open under the benchwork. I store stuff in the side attic spaces that will not be damaged by heat. Luggage, the entrance door itself which I removed, pottery, and a variety of stuff.

Dewey,

I am beginning to think you may be correct.

The storage is for all the stuff that was in the room prior to finishing it out.

Of course I am trying to get my wife to throw some of it away, but we still have a lot of "important stuff".

Also, I will need space to store all of my train boxes.

If I could build the layout in such a way as to still get access to the cabinets under the knee walls, that would be ideal, but I am thinking a layout similar to your pictures might be best.

High shelves in the garage is a good place to store train boxes....

You may get away with one circuit by the National Electric Code but I would suggest two or three 15 amp circuits; two for outlets and one for lighting.

With the size of the room your electrician will only need about four receptacles for the whole room. If I am correct you need one outlet every 12 feet of usable wall space, so on a 13 foot long wall you will need two outlets.

I am not sure on the smoke alarms as I have only installed battery operated ones.

Lee Fritz

MY attic had the standard Code wall receptacles and overhead lighting to start. But since the service entrance panel is located in the garage right below my railpower and accessory /lighting center under the benchwork, I extended a breakered 20 amp circuit the short distance up from the entrance panel to power the layout. Far more capacity than needed for two railpower districts and eventually layout lighting.

As shown I power the two TMCC districts with 180 watt power house AC transformers [PoHos] linked to TPCs [track power controllers] to enable running Conventional from Cab 1 hand held remote when desired. The lighting and tortoise motors for turnouts are powered by DC transformers.

Lee, I agree.

One circuit for lighting.  I will put the heat alarm on this circuit.

One circuit (20 amp?) for train layout.

One circuit for plugs for the rest of the room.

Dewey, correct me if I am wrong.  It looks like to me you are running your entire layout from two plugs?  I see two wall plugs, with power strips plugged into them.  If that is all you need, then I am really over thinking this.  I thought it would take a lot more power.

I was thinking about having at least 4 layout plugs near my control panel, then a plug every 6' or so around the room, with the bottom plug for the layout, and the top plug hot all the time.

Does this sound acceptable?

Martino

The wall receptacle on the left side of the power center is the 20 amp service from the entrance panel. All else, including the power strips, are fed from the one receptacle by a length of #12 UF cable plugged in...the ultimate disconnect.

Layout kill switch shown below. 

A 15 amp household circuit is rated at 1800 watts. Assume 80% of that to be safe at 1440 watts capacity. Eight 180 watt [10 amps x 18 volts] PoHo transformers equal that adjusted capacity. That is a lot of power district capacity.

Point is you need only one 15 amp household circuit to power the moderate sized layout. I am a believer in providing over-capacity in circuitry but we frequently all get caught up in overkill. 

So if I had a block of 4 plugs, going to a single 20 amp circuit, that would be more than enough?

Would it be better to have a 30 amp circuit?  or is that really more than I will ever need?

My electrical panel is directly below this train room in the garage, and it is easy to bring up a dedicated circuit, exactly like you did.

If you were able to power your entire layout from one area, do I really need to scatter additional layout plugs around the room?

I agree with everyone who said a master "on/off" light switch is a must.

Martino, you can't buy a 30 amp wall outlet that i know of. See if you can borrow a copy of the national electric code. It will have the info that you need. You are only allowed to have so many outlets on each circuit. I think it's 4 but don't quote me on that.

Your Electrician will[must] Code-install 15 amp receptacles every 12 feet plus any unique wall areas. You can dedicate a 20 amp circuit for the layout if you plan on having the railpower districts, lighting and accessory demand to need it. Otherwise a standard 15 amp feed I note above,will handle needs on a fairly large layout. 

I installed the new 20 amp circuit for layout power as a "comfort factor" but it clearly is not necessary to handle only two 180 watt PoHos and several small DC transformers. I have 17 DC Tortoise motors controlling track turnouts all of which are powered by a little 12 volt DC [fixed voltge] wall wart transformer.

You don't need a 30 amp circuit. 

Martin, it's cheaper to run two 15 amp circuits as apposed to one 30 amp. Also, at least in my area, fire detection devices must be an independent circuit. If your panel board is below in the garage, landing it should be no big deal.

For what it's worth, I think Dewey's concept would be better suited for your given space.