Wiring advice

Obviously, some modification will be required since the light is designed for 110.  Without knowing exactly what you have, it's hard to give you specifics.

I think it depends on what you consider simple!  I figure you'll probably want to get rid of the two-prong AC plug to fit your layout so you'll be dis-assembling it. 

Once inside, my guess is you "simply" need to change one 10 cent resistor.  If you take apart the unit and post a photo of the "electronics" I think you'll get some workable options from the usual suspects...

You could use a 12 VDC relay to switch the 110 VAC to control the sign. That would be the simplest avenue.

Rod

It would be cheaper to open it up and power the LED directly.  I also don't like having 110V running around the layout.

Thanks, gentlemen.  I just received it in the mail last night.  I will try to open the assembly where the AC prongs are (seems to be a small screw there) and hopefully take a picture of it and post if I cannot make heads or tails of it.  I like the idea of wiring LED itself, I am just not sure how.  Ill keep you posted. Thx

If you can expose the LED wiring, it's going to be pretty simple, and there's lots of us that can show you the way.

A safe method to transmit 110 volt AC across and into your layout is to use two wall warts, each with the same rating.

Put the first one at an outlet, use its low-voltage output and send it on a pair of 24 gauge leads, and at the distant end, where your 110 volt device is, use the second wall wart to transform the low voltage back to 110. This also accomplishes current-limiting, for additional safety.

Well, that only works for true AC wallwarts, most of them have a rectifier inside and would not work this way.  In addition, why have 110V at all?

Correct. I should have specified AC only WW's.

Why the 110? Because that's what he seemed to need without taking the signs apart.

I think the expedient method here is to simply mod the unit to power the LED from low voltage, this is a simple change.

I tried removing the little screw that holds the body of the AC prongs and I cannot seem to get it loose.  The little eyeglass screw driver I have does not allow me to apply the torque I need to break the seal.  No worriesL Plan B is to buy 5mm LEDs from modeltrainsoftware.com which can be easily powered by the track or transformer's 14v accessory panel.  I will just place the bulb inconspicuously behind the MLB plastic logo and light 'er up that way.  I want to thank all who took their time to advise me.  It is much appreciated.