Wiring and connectors

There are lots of choices depending on your specific need.  "All Electronics" has a good overall assortment of wire and connectors.  Digi-key, Mouser, Miniatronics, and Evan Design also may have what you need. This is just a short list.  Search the forum for "electrical connector" and lots of topics will turn up.

Bruce

I use IDEAL Brand • Wire & Terminal Connectors

Click Photo to enlarge.....

These are sold at home centers & hardware stores. I use a Klein Electrical Tool to crimp the wires into the connectors.

Hope this helps: Gary

A Good one !!

Charlie's Trains in Hubertus WI !! All kinds of Connectors & Wire ! I have been dealing with him for over 20 years ! Good GUY & Good Prices !  Call for Catalog !

262-628-1544

Thanks,

Fred (Fredstrains)

I prefer sae terminal crimps, harder to do but better. The look when finished is that of a factory automotive terminal, perfect.  Harder to pull out, flex resistant too. I also spend more for brass ones if I can. Shrink tube over crimps or even whole terminals looks way more professional than plastic too.(imo). I rarely leave the plastic in place on the cheapies eitber. Preferring to see my work, I pull them off when I can (varies by mfg if that can be done)

A loop for the wire & a loop for the insulation (a U. The up legs bent to a "heart shaped top" splitting strands to two groups; so two side by side loops actually. The loop on the insulation helps prevent flex breaks.)

Suppliers to the suppliers change too.  If you don't like what you get, let them know. I've never had a supply house say "tough, ain't it". They seem to know better for some odd reason; more old school folks maybe.

Every thing you need to know about electrical connectors.

Are you struggling to make ends meet… in your electrical system? Stripping and connecting wires can be messy and confusing, but this week Hagerty’s Matt Lewis shows you how to do it quickly and neatly. Using an auto-stripper and a crimper provides a tidy way to join two wires with both barrel and bullet connectors, and Matt explains where to employ each. For areas that require a stronger connection, he demonstrates how to fuse the wires with a soldering iron. Learn to safely connect your switches and ignition so you can get back on the road in no time.

All this information will work for model railroaders.

This video was published today. August 3, 2018

Hope this helps: Gary

I got/get most everything at Menards, usually when they have the 11% rebate.  14 G wire, 8 different colors and WAGO connectors.  I do have to order the TAP It connectors online.

I recently put an order in with Del City Electrical for the wiring supplies for my new layout and was very happy with the products and shipping.

delcity.com

Interesting??  https://chicdelta.com/products...lder-wire-connectors

And the posi-tap and posi-link connectors are worth a look. No crimping, they have screw sections, only work with stranded wire and come in a variety of gauges.

Anderson power poles for make/break connections.  Found at Ham Radio stores or through Powerworkx.

Small wire orders can be had on line OK.  However my 500 foot reels have the best pricing through a professional electrical supply house.  Supply houses are my best source for 4' lengths of shrink wrap @average about $1.70 each.  Shipping cost of heavy copper wire offsets any lower internet pricing.

Big vote for using multi wire colors.  Keeps from going crazy tracing circuits.

Diode Matrix for a 6 track pull through passenger terminal.  Try to trace this with just one or  two color(s) of wires!!

After years of layout and module building efforts, I have settled on crimp connectors (fork and ring) and terminal strips as the best solution for track power.   Combined with a quality wire stripper (I favor a Klein stripper vs. the "self adjusting" types) and crimper, the process is fast and the connections positive.  Looks neat too.

Euro-style  terminal blocks will save you the effort of attaching a crimp connector but they can be difficult to use to build a Y connection - not enough space for multiple wires.  I have also needed to solder the stripped wire ends on stranded wire to get a positive connection that doesn't shake loose on modules.

Wire nuts suffice for accessories on seasonal layouts.  If you want to create a rat's nest, this is the way to go.

For modules with accessories that get setup and taken down frequently, I attach 5.5mm barrel plugs on the accessory wires to quickly plug the accessories into banks of sockets connected to transformer power.

Module wiring uses Anderson Power Poles and 12G wires for the power buss.  These connectors require a $40 crimping tool (or you can solder) for joining the contacts to wire but they work well and have proven reliable in the field.  The plastic housings for the contacts come in a variety of colors so you can match your wiring color coding.

We used to use Jones plugs for wiring modules (original Tinplate Tracker standards).  These require soldering and are a PITA for 14G and larger wire.  I have a box full of plugs and sockets already soldered but can't seem to find a use for them.

I also have "push to connect" connectors used for speaker wires as an alternative to wire nuts on accessories.  They work OK.

For sources, local hardware stores and big box stores carry wire tools and crimp connectors.  All Electronics and the flea market guys usually have the best price on terminal strips.  Jameco for power bricks and components, and Powerwerx for Anderson Power Poles.  Barrel plugs w/wires attached come from All Electronics or Amazon.  Newark, Digikey, and Mouser for stuff that can't be found elsewhere.

The chicdelta heat shrink connectors is not a brand I have used, but last similar one I tried got a short which melted the low temp solder. The wire was also greasy and the plastics didnt seal well, the wire pulled out and shorted real bad on the wheelwell taking out the ignition bundle with it  (Offroad race truck; starter solenoid wire)

ThOugh a good cleaning might avoid this, allowing a melted seal, the crimp shrink tube version is safer in some cases for sure. Basically it is the same product with a crimp tube inside vs low temp solder.  The key is crimping without making a hole... But the tiniest dab of silicone can seal that up once done. 

   We aren't building trucks, but the chances of these goodies being used elsewhere is great don't you think? 

The standards of the stationary, covered, higher voltage AC are great, but exposed wiring can suffer a lot more abuse too. Use good personal judgement on what to use where as we aren't exactly wiring in walls and junction boxes either.  

I second Tracker John on all his points but add one extra step.  To all crimp ring and fork terminals I add a touch of solder.  

Setting my BernzOmatic on the edge of a flat surface and holding a bundle of wires precrimped I touch the tip of each terminal to the flame and deposit a smiggin of .032".    Very quick redundant step.

For wiring I use 14 gauge stranded for all track power and 18 gauge solid for most everything else.  I use spade crimp connections with barrier strips.  I purchase 28 connection barrier strips and cut them to suit may application.  The crimp connections I purchase in boxes of 1000.  14 gauge strained in reels of 500 ft.  18 gauge solid in reels of 1000 ft.  This approach simplifies additions, modifications and troubleshooting.  DCS likes it.  Minimizes voltage drop and over crimping. I use a simple crimp tool and a fancy wire stripper.  Since my control panels are hinged, I use smaller gauge flexible stranded wire to facilitate hinge movement and reduce wiring fatigue.

Blake Morris posted:

Any recommendations on a good and reputable dealer of wire, connectors and ect.  Would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Blake

Blake:

If you are dealing with 12 -18 gauge wire the least expensive places would be ACE, Lowes, Home Depot.

If you are looking at 20 - 28 gauge I go to Remington Industries Wire though it is probably cheaper out there.

For crimp connects I deal with Ferrules Direct. They sell wire ferrules, crimp connects and terminal strips. My system consists of crimping a wire into a ferrule and crimping the ferrule metal barrel into a standard crimp connect. This way I am almost 100% sure the wire won't slip out of the crimp connect down the road (especially true for solid wire). You will need a special designed crimping tool for the ferrules.

Note - if you use this technique you need to match the wire gauge to the ferrule then the outside diam of the ferrule barrel to the inside diam of the crimp connect. All data is on Ferrules Direct web site.

A Good one !!

Charlie's Trains in Hubertus WI !! All kinds of Connectors & Wire ! I have been dealing with him for over 20 years ! Good GUY & Good Prices !  Call for Catalog !

262-628-1544

Thanks,

Fred (Fredstrains)

Fred, Can you send the address for Charlie's Trains to the email in my profile, I live in North Prairie and that is not to far from home.

Ray

Electrical panel neutral buss bar works well for common connections. 

Small Grey Ideal twist nuts, also Yellow and Red twist nuts. 

A lot of under layout connections.  These are Buchanon 2008S crimp connectors and 2007 push-on insulator caps. 

Buchanon C24 crimp connector tool  can also be used with 2006 compression connectors. 

Rayin"S" posted:

A Good one !!

Charlie's Trains in Hubertus WI !! All kinds of Connectors & Wire ! I have been dealing with him for over 20 years ! Good GUY & Good Prices !  Call for Catalog !

262-628-1544

Thanks,

Fred (Fredstrains)

Fred, Can you send the address for Charlie's Trains to the email in my profile, I live in North Prairie and that is not to far from home.

Ray

Ray ,

i only have a PO Box listed ! Call him and he will give you his address, I'm sure!!  I always deal with him on the Phone !! Thanks for the Reply!!

Fred

Thanks Fred,

Ray