Wiring help please

It also can't hurt to invest in a pair of track pliers (or if you are really cost sensitive, just use regular pliers) to tighten the rails around the pins in addition to putting a power connection every 6 to 8 track sections.

Jess C,

   1st are you planning on running DCS & Legacy or are you just staying Conventional?  With the DCS the wiring size and Stranded Type does matter.  

PCRR/Dave

I will try to add more lockon's and  staying conventional ..all my trains are post war.

Are you sure that there are no missing center rail pins, or non-metallic (insulating) pins anywhere along the track? If you are using old style 027 manual (non-electrically operating) track switches, some of them disconnected power to a track that was not lined up for travel.

Do you own a digital volt meter? They range in cost from free (at Harbor Freight) to around $10 on Ebay. I suggest that you get one. Then use the meter to check for dead sections along the track, and make the necessary repairs.

Among other hints, always provide a feed between all turnouts.

If you think of it this way you will see the problem. For ease of understanding lets call the center rail + or positive and the outside rail – or negative. If you place your clip on power connector on the outside loop from the picture you posted the outside train will run fine. But the inside track will not. That is caused by the auto switching in the 027 switches which have insulating pins on the inside curve of the turnouts. Where the two loops connect you have two insulating pins together which will not allow the – to pass from one loop to the other.

Solution is to jumper the power over by adding additional power connectors between each section that is not getting the – side.