We are ready to wire a Ross Double Cross over with Z Stuff switch machines and a 1008 relay. The Z stuff diagram shows using 2 #1002 push buttons. This confuses me as I thought if we wire with one push button. Green is straight and red is crossover. What does the second push button do and is it necessary
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Thank you for the post. I plan on wiring my double crossover this weekend and will eagerly be reading this thread. I was not going to use the relay but "double up" the opposite switches on the same switch remote contoller.
Yes "double up" the opposite switches on the same switch remote contoller, using two controllers. Relay for engines that don't have the ability to keep power as it crosses.
Thank you Zygmont. That answers a lingering question I have had after reading the "advanced" wiring scheme for the double crossover on the Ross website.
I successfully installed and wired my double crossover tonite. I hope to fine tune the switches this weekend.
KG I am eager to hear how your installation is progressing.
Zygmont, the "doubling up" of the switches worked like a charm.
Anyone knows?
I have lost the instructions for the Miller sign #4804 Converter Moodule and need to know which wire is what.
The one wire on the left is the dc?
The one wire to the right ( on the white wire side ) is AC likefor a lionel transformer
White is the hook up to sign?
Please Help
Anyone knows?
I have lost the instructions for the Miller sign #4804 Converter Moodule and need to know which wire is what.
The one wire on the left is the dc?
The one wire to the right ( on the white wire side ) is AC likefor a lionel transformer
White is the hook up to sign?
Please Help
Think this is in wrong thread!!
We are ready to wire a Ross Double Cross over with Z Stuff switch machines and a 1008 relay. The Z stuff diagram shows using 2 #1002 push buttons. This confuses me as I thought if we wire with one push button. Green is straight and red is crossover. What does the second push button do and is it necessary
What Z Stuff diagram are you using. Curious why two buttons.
I sed the original wiring diagram which came with the crossover. Ross has a couple of PDFs on the website technical section showing wiring diagrams but one PDF wil no download. I believe that is the PDF for the simplest wiring sscheme which they included.
I actually wired the track using that diagram six months ago. Put the crossover onn the shelf, lost the wiring instructions and then installed this weekend. I did not use relays so I just wired the opposite switches in tandem.
KG can probably speak better to the relays.
Suppose you only want to cross over from the outside loop to the inside loop, but then you want the train (or other trains on the inner loop already) to keep running on the inner loop. You would set only two diagonally opposite switches OUT with one set of buttons. The other diagonal pair would remain Thru.
I need a really, really simple to understand diagram if I’m ever to get my croosover to work. Someone once wired it all to 1 controller and it worked, but I don’t know how it was wired at that time. I’d like to have something I can follow to wire it up with 2 controllers. Something maybe color-coded, or at least very simple to understand.
FROM THE OGR FORM:
Thank you for the post. I plan on wiring my double crossover this weekend and will eagerly be reading this thread. I was not going to use the relay but "double up" the opposite switches on the same switch remote contoller.
Yes "double up" the opposite switches on the same switch remote contoller, using two controllers. Relay for engines that don't have the ability to keep power as it crosses. (WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?)
Suppose you only want to cross over from the outside loop to the inside loop, but then you want the train (or other trains on the inner loop already) to keep running on the inner loop. You would set only two diagonally opposite switches OUT with one set of buttons. The other diagonal pair would remain Thru.
We are ready to wire a Ross Double Cross over with Z Stuff switch machines and a 1008 relay. The Z stuff diagram shows using 2 #1002 push buttons. This confuses me as I thought if we wire with one push button. Green is straight and red is crossover. What does the second push button do and is it necessary
The double X can be a real pain to get wired correctly. There are 4 switch machines. Yes you could probably wire it with one push button , Everything straight or everything curved.
Where it gets complicated is trying to prevent some engines from stalling on certain routes.
(also the non-derailing feature). To prevent stalling the DZ-relay comes into play by borrowing an outside rail and making it hot. With only one push button and the crossover lined for both routes crossing over ,there's a dead short on one of the routes. As I mentioned this thing can drive you nuts. I think that's why you need the second controller.
If running TMCC or DCS I would set up 3 route, 1- everything straight,2- only one crossover lined... 3, the other crossover lined.Now you have to get the leds lit correctly. Fortunately with the Z-1000s you can swap led positions.
Give me 2 separate crossovers any day,,, Ok I know they look neat and you already have them.
My buddy and TCAMG forum member, George Hickey, tackled and finished a long overdue rewiring of my “Ross Custom Switches” high-speed double crossover. http://catalog.rossswitches.co...ct.cfm?item_id=82572
I wanted it to throw each set of two DZ 1000 switch machines http://www.z-stuff.net/dz1000.html , diagonally, using 2-lighted controllers. When wired correctly, the green aspect on each controller signals straight and the red curved. The control buttons are mounted side-by-side. Each controller fires two DZ 1000 machines: the 2 that are diagonally wired to it, and they in turn light green for the 2 diagonal switches being straight, or red if they are set for curved.
For example, if both controllers show the green aspect then I know from a distance that all 4 turnouts are in the straight position. If I then press the left controller, the 2 switches diagonally wired to it go from straight to curved and the light turns to red. The same goes for the right controller. So, if both controllers light red this signals that all 4 turnouts are now in the curved position, and so on.
I am pleased that after carefully rewiring all 18 connections with color coded wires it works correctly the way that it was designed to, making it easy to know what is happening at track level several feet away.
Old man happy!
Bruce E. Vincelette |