Wiring up a whole village

Woodland Scenics Just Plug-In lighting system might be just what you're looking for.  Expandable and individually controlled.

http://woodlandscenics.woodlan...stPlugLightingSystem

Hey Volphin!,

How's it going?

All of these accessories are prepared for AC input. I would group them by voltage, power draw and location on the layout.

A cheap clamp meter from Harbor Freight would be helpful. It will take voltage and amperage readings by clamping around the hot wire.

I would group them electrically by optimum voltage, total power draw and physical location.

Connect each accessory one at a time to the variable input (A & U) and determine the optimum voltage and amperage draw for the desired brightness or operation. Note the voltage and amperage readings on the list.

Now determine where they will be located on the layout.

Each CW-80 will provide up to 5amps on the fixed accessory posts without using the variable A & U for track. Check the bottom of the CW's for the letter G in the code. If you have any without the G, let us know.

Now you can determine the electrical groupings. Hopefully, you won't have any issues on power draw total.

I would suggest using the 12 position MTH terminal block. Two wires to the block 14awg from the fixed acc posts on the CW-80 to the terminal block. 18-22awg to the accessory from the block. Each block is limited to 5 amps by the CW-80.

If you need different voltages to group them, the fixed output can be set on the CW-80. So, that's where having a few of them may be helpful.

Next, if individual control is needed, miniature SPST lever(toggle) or button switches in series with the hot wire from the terminal block to the accessory will provide that feature.

Many ways to light the Plasticville. I am a roll your own type LED. GRJ's kits from Henning's will work nicely.

That's my 2¢ on this.

email me if you want to discuss further. 

Like what was suggested.

I would probably group some of the items and connect to a single toggle so it would be easier to turn on and off. It would be easier than a separate toggle for each and you could achieve a realistic effect.

You might also want to consider adding some outside lights for the non-lit buildings. Check out sponsors such as Korber, OGRE, and Evan Design. They are easy to install and don't require resistors, etc. Many/most are LED and minimal amps.

Please post some pictures. This should look really nice.

Convert all buildings to LED lighting strips. These work great,shown for passenger cars but they also work well in buildings with a 12 volt input. Just peel and stick to the roof. Larger buildings can use 2 or more strips connected with wires 22-26 gauge is fine. Tape the wires up the side or corner of the building to hide. 

LINK

Individual LEDs can also be used 

LINKK

You can add a bridge rectifier to each building or make a 12VDC  lighting buss with one large 10 amp or more bridge rectifier. 

From each building run 2 colored wires. I use red and white. Connect all the whites with wire nuts and run to the common terminal. Run all red wires to the hot 12 volt terminal. Use larger gauge for buss. #22-26 for branches. Returns can be grouped through switches to troubleshoot shorts. House wiring  switches can be used,you can get them at Lowes for 50 cents each. 

I am actually wiring my layout now,I have many structures. The tinplate structures I keep the bulbs for the toy train look. I also use a common buss for the whole layout,described here. Saves on wiring. 

LINK2

Dale H

Not much I can add that hasn't been covered already, but I will try to add a couple of thoughts.

I second Moonman's recommendation of the MTH terminal blocks. Available in 12 or 24 terminal versions. Personally I prefer the 24 terminal version as both the 'hot' and 'common' wires connect on the same side and it makes a neater job. Also leaves plenty of room for expansion.

I also think using (or converting to) all LED strip lighting is a good idea. Dale H describes the DIY methods above and Moonman's suggestion of using GRJ's lighting kits is a good one too. I haven't looked closely at the Woodland Scenics lighting system, but from what little I have seen of the system, it looks like a really nice and very neat way to add lighting. It's a very easy and well thought out system and pricing seemed very reasonable, from what I have seen at my LHS so far. I would look into all of these suggestions and which ever one you are the most comfortable with would be the best one for you.

Thank you everyone!  Carl, you have a crude wiring diagram in your mail… LOL

As you group the accessories and match them with multiple voltage options, I think you'll find the 12-pair terminal blocks have more contacts than you need.  Obviously there are blocks with fewer connections.  For distribution points with fewer contacts, an alternative are Wago Lever connectors which have been discussed on OGR.  This link should take you right to a post with an under-layout photo.

https://ogrforum.com/t...76#34936195155060676

The 5-terminal version goes for less than $1 each and is widely available (eBay, Amazon, local electrical h/w store).  Obviously not as economical as twist wire-nuts but the ability to insert/remove a single wire by flipping a lever is kind of handy.