Yet another PS-3 Upgrade Question...

When you loaded the chain file for the stacker board, did it finish? Should have beeped in morse code at the end and again at first power up.

It was the chain file for the stacker board, right?

Maybe it's not the right file posted?

https://www.mthtrains.com/site...4__cnw080408ffin.mth

I see this file under DCS upgrade. I don't know if it's compatible with the chain file. Is it the one you loaded?

Engineer-Joe,

Thank you for the very rapid response sir.

That is the sound file that I loaded (https://www.mthtrains.com/site...4__cnw080408ffin.mth).

The Chain File that I loaded is:  PS32_Steam_Osmk_3528-CPF.zip 

The Chain File was on this page:  https://mthtrains.com/chainfiles

I did get the beeping that sounds like Morse code after the file loaded.

I also opened the tender up (since my original post) to make sure that all of the connectors were seated and the plugs on the leads for the Backup Light and the Tender Marker lights were properly plugged together (they were).  I also made sure that the individual pins on the connectors on the board were seated in their plugs-no change.

did any of the lights work with the factory loaded soundset?

I didn't check the headlight, but none of the lights (Marker or Backup) worked on the tender with the factory loaded soundset.

wait a minute. The steam kit comes with bulbs not LEDs. Well, only the markers are LEDs

What chain file & sound file you used makes a huge difference. Did you use the upgrade files for this locomotive by item number? and as Joe points out, the only LED’s included in the kit are for tender marker ( red ) and class lights ( green ) if so equipped.

Pat

Thank you to those who responded and are offering assistance.

I used the headlight, tender marker lights, and tender backup light that came in the kit.  I assumed they were all LED's (my error).

The chain file I used was the one I listed above (there is only a PS-3 upgrade file on the MTH website-no separate chain file).

I re-loaded the chain file I used earlier about an hour ago and it made no difference.  It did make the Morse Code tones again.

Sounds like the board needs to be tested. Was it brand new and sealed when you got it?

Yes, it was brand new and sealed.  I purchased it directly from the MTH parts website.

My understanding is that there is no warranty on it once I opened the envelope with the board-is this correct?

@RAK posted:

Yes, it was brand new and sealed.  I purchased it directly from the MTH parts website.

My understanding is that there is no warranty on it once I opened the envelope with the board-is this correct?

I don’t know what you did, but worse case scenario, you can use your PS1 constant voltage board and wire your lights up that way if all other functions work as advertised. ….there’s a section in the manual on how to do this. Be sure to install the included inductor that’s in the box.

Pat

harmonyyards,

I think that is a good idea. 

The constant voltage board is still installed and the inductor is in place (it is powering the marker lights on the locomotive and the Mars light-both of which work).  All I would have to do is to plug the headlight into it.

I can live without the tender marker lights and backup light.  It is just a bit disappointing.

@RAK posted:

harmonyyards,

I think that is a good idea.

The constant voltage board is still installed and the inductor is in place (it is powering the marker lights on the locomotive and the Mars light-both of which work).  All I would have to do is to plug the headlight into it.

I can live without the tender marker lights and backup light.  It is just a bit disappointing.

Again, I don’t know what happened, but you can still have the tender markers illuminate. You can hard wire the two included red marker LED’s to track power in the tender. All that’s really needed is the appropriate resistor. Some manufacturers like Kline did it like that from the factory……I don’t see a back up light as a total loss, unless you run in reverse a lot…😉

Pat

If you've cooked the FET's on the top stacker board, that board is cheap to replace, it's the bottom processor board that goes for much bigger money.

You didn't by chance hit the HDLT button on the remote (#7) did you?

I don't know if I caused this issue or not.  At this point, I don't know what I don't know.

I am not in the least upset with MTH.  I just want to learn more (and avoid this the next time if at all possible).

gunrunnerjohn-I didn't realize that the boards could be purchase separately.  Is this (AE1003V36) the correct board to replace the one in the PS-3 Steam Upgrade kit?

rplst8-I thought of that, but the headlight will not turn on using the Headlight Button on the remote.  I did not try a feature reset-I should do that.

Again, thank you to all who have been putting up with all of my questions and answering them.  The help is very much appreciated!