ZW-C Voltage Question...

It should be 18 volts, which was generally the PW standard and also what is required for todays command control.

 

Bruce

Thanks. Time to figure out if it's the gauge or the ZW.

 

Update - Checked it again with everything unplugged, 16.6 volts.

 

Any ideas on what next?

 

Thanks.

 

 

Any load on the output(s) (trains/lights/etc), or just the meter you are measuring with?

 

(I don't have a specific thought that would be a slam dunk, but these details are good to help)

 

Also, when you mention the voltage, do you mean from the add-on Lionel ammeter/voltmeter, or a stand alone piece of test measuring equipment? 

 

If the former, it could also be the meter is reading low, but you may actually see more on the track if something is odd with the add-on Lionel meter on the ZW.

 

-Dave

 

Dave,

 

Let me first say electronics are not my strong suit! I have a Robinair 14980 Multimeter given to me by a friend who retired.

 

It was accurate when measuring ohms on resistors for smoke units so I'm assuming its accurate.

 

When I took the reading nothing was hooked up to the ZW.

 

I'll see if I can get my hands on another unit to verify the readings.

 

Thanks for your comments!

In the manual there is a method to reset the zero point on the handles.  Try that and see if it helps.

Check the voltage directly off the secondary of your power bricks that are connected to the in puts of the ZW-C. If you are ok at that point then the issue is in the ZW-C.Regan has an excellent tutorial on the ZW-C on you tube.If I remember correctly,and as sinclair mentions,there is a way to calibrate the throttle handles.Im sure you will get it working properly.Nick

 

The electronics in the ZW-C will eat up a volt to a volt and a half. As long as the power supply (brick) is at 18 volts, just do the calibration, and it's good to go. Ours does the same thing after the calibration reset... 16.5-17.5 volts on a given day.

Currently out of town, I'll recalibrate when I get home and see what it does. I'm not sure what you guys mean by check it at the bricks?

"Check the bricks" is simply referring to checking the voltage out of the bricks.  I can say for an outlet voltage of 126 volts, the output of the three I checked are all around 19 VAC measured with a true-RMS meter.  That will translate to 18 volts with 120 VAC from the outlet.

Laidoff's statement is the same as my findings with our zw-c. The internal electronics eat up 1-1.5v.

 

THe other issue with these is the plastic bracket that holds the main gear shaft that rotates the potentiometer can crack.  That can allow the throttle to skip a gear.  At that point you can't get max voltage out.  I have one with a broke throttle.  If I move it fast it will skip.  You normally can tell because the throttle arm at a different position.

 

If all are reading the 1 to 1.5V low it may just be the meter and the normal loss of the triacs.   G

It also depends if you are in command or not.  I have the ZW meters on my ZW-C (Yes, I know they aren't the best, but they came with it.) and this is what I've noticed;

In conventional the handle all the way up shows 18V.

In command it'll be either 16 or 17V.

This is using the 180W PowerHouse brick.  The other thing I noticed is that I can move my handles almost 1/2 of their full travel before there is any power put to the track, and that it almost goes up exponential from there.  It makes for difficult fine adjustments when in conventional.  And I have done the zero reset a couple of times and it never changes.  And I figure that it's not a gear issue as I still get pull power when the handles are all the way up.

OK, just did the re-calibrate. At the A-U posts it read 16.85 volts, better!