ZW Model R Transformer power cord replacement

You should see two eyelets in this area in a metal type bar.

Here's  a photo of the two eyelets. On the coil end.

Wow, how'd they pack so much in to that sucker.  Seriously, I've never seen the inside of a ZW and looking at the guts of a ZW is very intimidating.  I hope I don't have to tackle one in the future but I'd rise to the challenge just like DBMNJ is attempting to do.  I'm very glad he decided to tackle this one and start this thread.

What exactly does the R mean, he state in the title that it was a ZW-R, I have no clue what the R means, I'd love to know and I'm not trying to hi-jack the thread, I'd just like to know what the R stands for.

Great thread, I realize the answer has already been revealed but I hope there are more answers to follow.  Thanks for the help and especially the thread.

J. Motts posted:

What exactly does the R mean, he state in the title that it was a ZW-R, I have no clue what the R means, I'd love to know...

Probably "Revised". It was the final version made by Lionel.

The R stands for riveted core. The models with the R have a riveted laminations/core.

Don’t forget to tie a knot on the cord inside the ZW  before you solder the wires 

I've probably done about a hundred of these over the last 30 years.  I remove the baseplate, but insert one screw in the side near the terminals to secure the core bracket, then remove the other bracket and support the core with a short piece of wood.  Fish the new power wire through the hole in the bottom of the transformer, pull it through and tie a knot to act as strain relief.  There is a stiff covered wire from the core that has a "U" shaped bend in it.  The power wire is installed so that the core wire pulls the cord away (under the core) from the pivoting arms connected to the handles, otherwise the sharp edges on the arms can eventually cut the insulation.

Train Nut posted:

...The models with the R have a riveted laminations/core.

Which is true, but there are non-"R"  ZWs w/ riveted laminations as well.

ADCX Rob posted:

Train Nut posted:

...The models with the R have a riveted laminations/core.

Which is true, but there are non-"R"  ZWs w/ riveted laminations as well.

Probably not original to the housing...

DBMNJ posted:

I am struggling to replace the power cord on my ZW (R) transformer and l when I propped up the coil assembly I found that the cord had disconnected from the device (see red arrow on photo).  Now I have no idea where to connect the replacement cord.  Note: the "Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual" has no information about this.

Any help would be appreciated.

FIXED!!!   It was a struggle but perseverance and help from members of this forum made it possible.

As you can see from the attached photo I was able to solder the connections (I later covered them with liquid tape).  

Note: you will also see a cable tie holding back the wheel arms - definitely makes the reconstruction go smoothly.

Seems like the info ADCX ROB posted on the R needs to be re-read.

Good job. You need to replace that lower roller on each side. Even if you have got it back together. All you have to do is just remove the top cover, two bulbs and covers and four screws. Crush the old one, cut the old rivet, instal new roller and rivet, then small bit of solider on top of rivet. Ten minutes. 

Chris

+1 on roller replacement.  Here's how to do it crushing the roller in place as Chris described:

http://www.agtta.com/Tech-Tips...-tip-ZW-repairs2.pdf

Be careful that the bracket doesn't contact the exposed wires on the cord.  I prefer to install the cord from the other side of the fiber plate and fold the protruding wires over.  Use a solder sucker to clean the eyelets out. I see you routed the wire inside of the looped core wire, which is good.  I also use an analog meter, AC setting, when completed to see if the case is hot or has any leakage from the core.  A few volts from the cover mounting screw to the the ground screw on the outlet is acceptable.

Train Nut posted:

ADCX Rob posted:

Train Nut posted:

...The models with the R have a riveted laminations/core.

Which is true, but there are non-"R"  ZWs w/ riveted laminations as well.

Probably not original to the housing...

TedW posted:

Seems like the info ADCX ROB posted on the R needs to be re-read.

Correct, there are non- "R"  ZWs w/ riveted laminations.  The 18 volt pilot lamp circuit definitively identifies the "R" model.

1948-1949  ZW  -  250 Watts

1950-1956  ZW  -  275 Watts

1957-1966 ZW R - 275 Watts

Minor changes in the R model - slight core differences, I think there was a difference in the pilot lamp circuit and other wiring/hardware areas.

Just our of curiosity, is the new power cord bonefide AC power cord?  Usually, AC cord with clear insulation has a silver and a copper conductor to differentiate hot and neutral, others have a molded rib on one side.  I usually buy extension cords and cut off the female end, much cheaper than buying a length of 2 wire and a plug, but I am a bit frugal.

@beatlerat posted:

Minor changes in the R model - slight core differences,

Negative. Re-read earlier post(s).

@beatlerat posted:

I think there was a difference in the pilot lamp circuit and other wiring/hardware areas.

@ADCX Rob posted:

The 18 volt pilot lamp circuit definitively identifies the "R" model.

@CALNNC posted:

... I usually buy extension cords and cut off the female end, much cheaper than buying a length of 2 wire and a plug, but I am a bit frugal.

Traditional/conventional Lionel transformers are double insulated and are supposed to have non-polarized plugs & cords.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Negative. Re-read earlier post(s).

Yes, I saw that.  As far as the cord is concerned, I wanted to put in a 16 ga cord, but as others have said, it did not fit the holes.  Make sure that your 18 ga cord is either double insulated or an spt2 rated wall.  Also, the neutral (or common) on a polarized plug is ribbed and goes to the lower solder lug on the transformer.  You should still check to make sure that your transformer is in phase with your other transformers (specifically the CW-80).

@ADCX Rob posted:

Traditional/conventional Lionel transformers are double insulated and are supposed to have non-polarized plugs & cords.

Yes, with no lamps switches or fuses in the primary, non polarized is fine.    Still though, a common failure in all transformer powered equipment is a primary short, and unfused devices in the average home will have to draw more than 15 or 20 amps before the circuit breaker associated with the outlet it is plugged into will open, the line cord will melt if the breaker does not trip in a timely manner before the shorted primary, or the line cord itself burns open, if at all.  I have a 'master switch' for my 2 ZW's containing  a simple wall type switch in a 4X4 box with a combination switch and dual 110V outlet cover plate, both outlets separated by cutting the link, and individually fused with 5 Amp cartridge fuses.  Turning off the master switch removes all power when I am not running trains.  Electricity is a wonderful but fickle mistress if you don't treat her right, she can get mad at you and burn you house to the ground.

@CALNNC posted:

Yes, with no lamps switches or fuses in the primary, non polarized is fine.    Still though, a common failure in all transformer powered equipment is a primary short, and unfused devices in the average home will have to draw more than 15 or 20 amps before the circuit breaker associated with the outlet it is plugged into will open, the line cord will melt if the breaker does not trip in a timely manner before the shorted primary, or the line cord itself burns open, if at all.  I have a 'master switch' for my 2 ZW's containing  a simple wall type switch in a 4X4 box with a combination switch and dual 110V outlet cover plate, both outlets separated by cutting the link, and individually fused with 5 Amp cartridge fuses.  Turning off the master switch removes all power when I am not running trains.  Electricity is a wonderful but fickle mistress if you don't treat her right, she can get mad at you and burn you house to the ground.

If that included a light on each plug to show power, that would be a nifty idea.  Have a picture of the inside to show how the fuses are wired?

@CALNNC posted:

Yes, with no lamps switches or fuses in the primary, non polarized is fine.    Still though, a common failure in all transformer powered equipment is a primary short, and unfused devices in the average home will have to draw more than 15 or 20 amps before the circuit breaker associated with the outlet it is plugged into will open, the line cord will melt if the breaker does not trip in a timely manner before the shorted primary, or the line cord itself burns open, if at all.  I have a 'master switch' for my 2 ZW's containing  a simple wall type switch in a 4X4 box with a combination switch and dual 110V outlet cover plate, both outlets separated by cutting the link, and individually fused with 5 Amp cartridge fuses.  Turning off the master switch removes all power when I am not running trains.  Electricity is a wonderful but fickle mistress if you don't treat her right, she can get mad at you and burn you house to the ground.

Could you please post a link to the 5 amp cartridge fuses you are referring to.  I think this is a great idea.

I used holders I have on hand, but they look like this:  https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-...Holder/dp/B07JHR14FT

You can make it easy with prewired fuse holders:  https://www.amazon.com/Gebilde...-Wired/dp/B0CDBH43QQ

Or go old school: https://www.amazon.com/Littelf...Holder/dp/B00KBJ17LQ   but if you blow a fuse you would have to remove the cover to replace them.

If you use this along with a duplex outlet, you will have an indication of power getting to the outlet, but not fuse condition:  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Le...-05226-0WS/202035018

A deep 4X4 outlet box and these will install along an edge where you will need to drill holes for.  You can use a bigger box of course and put in more outlets or have it less crowded and that may allow you to use one of the knockouts in it instead of drilling holes.  If you are fusing at 5 amps then common stranded #18 or #20 or wire from the switch to the fuse holders and the outlets will be adequate.

Of course all this stuff can be found at other places, I had the holders, but got everything else from Lowes.