I bought a ZW off the bay a few weeks back and while I was looking inside I found a loose piece. Is the triangular piece in the image below something that broke off inside, or is it just some foreign body?
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Tough to say. Lots of bits of Lionel black in a repair shop but it seems too large to have crept in on it's own too. That makes you wonder about a shop imo.
It may have a new cover or other parts and removing that chunk got missed.
I'd both fish it out and look around very closely inside and at photos of junked frames cases and stripped parts. You could build a zw from parts on the Bay.
Look at the terminal plate slots. There and handles are the usual breaks.
Is that residue down there a spray lube's stain or some kind of mineral deposit? Rust where the wires cross that plate? Rusty footplate? It looks very dry inside; dusty/dirty, or maybe just "smudgy". A can of good spray electrical cleaner like CRC will also safely leave a light protection on the raw metals in there.
Not a refurb I guess? (Myself; I'd have cleaned up a bit more inside.)
It looks almost like it saw water but got dried before deep damage could set in.
The color of the deposit also reminds me of traces of a spent quantum disinfectant solution, very expensive and effective stuff if that's what it is.
But an exuberant session with a cleaner/cleaner wax/etc. seems just as likely.
Looks like one I bought years ago. And it had to of gone thru a flood. The top case was even warped. But it tested ok.
Looks like it may be a chunk from the secondary coil end? The color looks the same. Would be hard to see without removing the coil holder. Operation should not be affected.
franktrain
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Adriatic posted:Tough to say. Lots of bits of Lionel black in a repair shop but it seems too large to have crept in on it's own too. That makes you wonder about a shop imo.
It may have a new cover or other parts and removing that chunk got missed.
I'd both fish it out and look around very closely inside and at photos of junked frames cases and stripped parts. You could build a zw from parts on the Bay.
Look at the terminal plate slots. There and handles are the usual breaks.
Is that residue down there a spray lube's stain or some kind of mineral deposit? Rust where the wires cross that plate? Rusty footplate? It looks very dry inside; dusty/dirty, or maybe just "smudgy". A can of good spray electrical cleaner like CRC will also safely leave a light protection on the raw metals in there.
Not a refurb I guess? (Myself; I'd have cleaned up a bit more inside.)
It looks almost like it saw water but got dried before deep damage could set in.
The color of the deposit also reminds me of traces of a spent quantum disinfectant solution, very expensive and effective stuff if that's what it is.
But an exuberant session with a cleaner/cleaner wax/etc. seems just as likely.
It's pretty dusty inside, and the base plate has some rusty spots. The original listing mentioned nothing about a refurb, only that it had a "new cord, good rollers, lights work, replaces 4 wire nut studs, and it works great", so it sounds like some work was definitely done on it. On the inside of the top cover is stamped " ZW 66" and a "1" below that. I'll definitely use some CRC though, thanks for the input!
So far I've only done minor testing unloaded, 3 of the outputs are working great, but D-U won't zero out. It only drops to about 4.5VAC
Look at the arm travel to ensure it isn't stopping before it climbs off the last windings.
Note I think the spec is for 5v-20v.
Bottom line is the winding diameter condition & amount of wear on them.
I ain't skeered of messes, rust etc., it's just dust isn't good for contacts, especially mineral rich stuff. I used to rat rod too, I have a unique love/hate thing going with rust
I.e. I wouldn't power rust off inside without flushing. Nor saturate that cloth wire with penetrating oil. But a drop of motor oil, pen. oil or gun cleaner kept off wire, to break up the rust and hold the dust from some abrasive and/or then hardwire hand wirebrush slow, like you are cleaning a firearm & not spreading the oxide, might do some good in the long run.
Or grab your chunk, check that the rollers roll well and seal it up; because no spiders inside is always good know about too
That think looks a mess. I’d have it serviced before using.
The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards taking it in
franktrain posted:
That would be my guess too. Usually it’s the Bakelite piece that the rollers rest on when at zero which makes it tough to repair. Bakelite doesn’t bond very well unless it’s really clean. Oh- nice picture
I bet a careful dab of JB weld for a new final landing would work.
I couldn't recall for sure if it lifted onto a pad or not.
Kent's comment explains 4.5v on D too.