I want to build a light weight layout on 2 inch foamboard that sits over a twin bed and easily removable when a guest need to use the bed. Going to cover the board with carpet to deaden the noise. I want it simple, thus no switches. So I'm looking for the longest flat layout that I can put on it that's interesting and potentially run two trains at the same time. Here's what I have so far. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Not sure you could easily run 2 trains on that plan. The crossovers would be tough to clear with 2 trains running.
Try an oval on the outside and figure 8 inside.
Don't dismiss switches too soon. Fastrack manual switches would add options to a small layout plan.
Thanks for the thoughts. I'm using postwar tubular O27 and I thought the switches will be too heavy on foamboard. I will have to turn it vertical to remove it from the bedroom when in use, thus wanting track only.
I only have a 1033 transformer so running two separate trains on separate tracks doesn't work. I'm thinking a relay and sensing track would keep the collisions from happening. But that will be step two after I get this up and running.
For a 4x6 layout I made recently I added a visual separator along the back portion of the loop. (Look at the tree line.) That's the thought I had for you - a visual separator in front of the back long return run may add interest to the layout. I made the visual separator out of foam board - same as the backdrops. (Photo attached as published in LOTS Switcher magazine this month.)
When I put this away after the season, the track, river, bridges, and signals stay - everything else gets pulled off. No switches though - I had fun with a 4x6 foam layout with a loop. Enjoy your trains!
Transport Mode: (I remove the truck also). Note I have a 1x4 frame and 5/16 paneling - I trap the foam board backdrops between the paneling and the frame/foam top.
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Thanks for the great ideas. I have no support for the foam board except at the ends, the 4 corners. Do you have support underneath or on the perimeter and what did you use?
Sorry I see you answered my questions in between the pics. I just read the top on my phone.
The foam base on my 4x6 is actually on a 1/2" plywood base, framed by 1x4's. So it isn't just foam but you probably only need plywood in the corners to keep the frame together. There's also a great article on building a foam module in this month's LCCA magazine, where he highlights the lighter weight of just two ends 1x4 and the other 2 sides are 5/16" paneling glued to the foam, then overlapping the small end frames and glued. Of course that's only a 30"x46" module.
Thanks Rob
great use of space. Lots of track. More than I probably have. Especially 1/2 tracks.
now I’ll have to find some track. Right now on eBay people think these are valuable!!
@TrainCzar posted:
now I’ll have to find some track. Right now on eBay people think these are valuable!!
That’s only because Lionel doesn’t make it anymore. 😉
@TrainCzar have you looked at thortrains.us yet? It has a lot of valuable track plan ideas for various track types such as O27 or O gauge and different size plans.
@TrainCzar posted:.. 1/2 tracks... ...now I’ll have to find some track. Right now on eBay people think these are valuable!!@Yellowstone Special posted:That’s only because Lionel doesn’t make it anymore. 😉
I have a small box full of sections I cut to 1/2 sections... have never bought one.
@Rich Wiemann posted:@TrainCzar have you looked at thortrains.us yet? It has a lot of valuable track plan ideas for various track types such as O27 or O gauge and different size plans.
Yes I did, lots of ideas, and I used them to create my design I posted. Thanks.
@Yellowstone Special posted:That’s only because Lionel doesn’t make it anymore. 😉
Curious what the Original Poster decides and what others recommend on starting today with O27 track. My layout is complete with O27 track. I happen to like it's look better than the higher O profile but with O27 no longer manufactured, I'm wondering what to advise my two sons-in-law. Thus far, I've told them to go with Fastrack or O.
@TrainCzar posted:Rob,
I have cut them with a hacksaw and that's really tedious for the amount required. Do you have a better way?
I used one of these to cut the track for my build. Beats the crap out of doing it with a hacksaw!
DRILL MASTER 5.5 Amp 6 in. Cut-Off Saw
I had a lot of track to cut.
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I started with O27 track because I still had some from the 50s and am doing a postwar look layout. Just kept adding. It is pretty easy to find and as you say its low profile makes it look better with postwar Lionel. It works fine for me but its a little flimsy and easily distorts but I run prewar to modern (2023) Lionel on it. The hard thing is finding the larger radius curves in that profile. But O gauge may be a better choice if you add ballast which hides the higher profile IMO.
@TrainCzar posted:Rob,
I have cut them with a hacksaw and that's really tedious for the amount required. Do you have a better way?
I used one of these to cut the track for my build. Beats the crap out of doing it with a hacksaw!
DRILL MASTER 5.5 Amp 6 in. Cut-Off Saw
I had a lot of track to cut.
@TrainCzar posted:...hacksaw and that's really tedious for the amount required. Do you have a better way?
A hacksaw is all I've ever used. I have probably 40-50 custom cut sections of O27 accumulated over the years. I am still using the original Craftsman blue saw blades that came with my saw when I was about 12 years old. They are very high quality.
Thanks John, That looks mighty easy
@TrainCzar posted:I started with O27 track because I still had some from the 50s and am doing a postwar look layout. Just kept adding. It is pretty easy to find and as you say its low profile makes it look better with postwar Lionel. It works fine for me but its a little flimsy and easily distorts but I run prewar to modern (2023) Lionel on it. The hard thing is finding the larger radius curves in that profile. But O gauge may be a better choice if you add ballast which hides the higher profile IMO.
The other challenge you'll have with O27 (as I've had) is availability of switches/turnouts. I know your topic says you won't have any, but if you expand your empire, it's a consideration. There are PLENTY out there with 27" diameter but very few with wide diameter. To my knowledge, only Lionel and K-Line made 42" diameter switches unless you go to Ross whose reportedly can mate with O27 track.
I squirreled away a bunch of O27 track and 42" switches in case of future need for my layout.
You are correct. Hard to find. I bought a few 42 inch ones myself for my other main layout.
this one is just another secondary layout in my winter home.
now I know who’s buying them out!!!!!
@TrainCzar posted:...now I know who’s buying them out!!!!!
There are probably more than a few of us here on the OGR forum that have been buying these up for 25+ years. I used to be able to find these in lots of 8-20 on auction sites, but they are few now, and sell at a premium.
If you have a Dremel or other type of rotary tool than get yourself a cut-off wheel for it. That will make easy work of it.
@TrainCzar posted:Rob,
I have cut them with a hacksaw and that's really tedious for the amount required. Do you have a better way?
Get a oscillating tool like a Dremel Multi-max with a metal blade. Makes fast work of tubular cuts. Come's in handy around the house too.
John's little chop saw would be an excellent choice too.
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I don't see the oscillating tool as being the ideal choice to cut track. I'd wonder if the oscillating blade might contact a rail on the side if you're not really careful and be a problem. The chop saw makes a perfectly aligned cut across all the rails. If I'm cutting rails one at a time, I typically use the Dremel with a fiber cut-off disk.
https://ogrforum.com/...8#182466531796001188
@raising4daughters - the key to using out of date track is getting it at swap meets, auctions, and estate sales - you mention you are hoarding some switches, so you probably already know this. If your family just wants to move on and get building, stick with modern readily available track is my thought. I personally like the lower profile of 027 tubular and the flexibility of Gargraves/Ross track as well.
@TrainCzar - I was pleasantly surprised to find Marx 034 track and switches in 027 style low profile. They may be lesser known - I am using several on my layout, and you can still find some reasonably priced on eBay. There is an excellent article on this Forum on how to add a non-derail rail onto the 034 switch to make it more reliable. (Search Marx 034 switches). I used Liquid Nails instead of soldering.
If it's not too much trouble, how would this layout look in O31 track?
Dick Barnard
@TypeHxfmr posted:...how would this layout look in O31 track?
How about with 027 track with 054 curves? How would that look? I hope I'm not imposing. I really like the layout plan. Thank you.
@Charlesp34 posted:How about with 027 track with 054 curves?
Rob, just a comment.
You are a great guy!
Does the 031 layout you just posted still fit on a 4x8 panel?
If so, then I can't imagine why anyone would want to bother with 027 track, due to all of the supply/ availability problems.
Thx,
Mannyrock
@Mannyrock posted:Does the 031 layout you just posted still fit on a 4x8 panel?
Yes.
@Mannyrock posted:.. I can't imagine why anyone would want to bother with 027 track, due to all of the supply/ availability problems.
There is no O-27 supply/availability problem in this county, we have a glut. If it's nationwide, my track selling prices are going up.
Only issues I had getting O27 track are larger radiii versions. But I have found enough for my purposes. Just cost more.
@TrainCzar posted:Only issues I had getting O27 track are larger radiii versions. Just cost more.
Agreed. And, for me, and hopefully most of us, they just cost a little more.
Mike
I was curious, so I weighed a modern O27 manual switch on our little food scale and compared it to track weight. One switch is about 10.5oz, which is about equal to 6 pcs of O27 straight track. Just in case you’re still thinking ‘what if I add one passing siding?’ With 94 pcs of track, you could replace some with a pair of manual switches and open some space for scenery or industry and be able to park a second train. Just thinking!
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If the bed is used only every so often (once a month, every 6 months) , put the foam on the floor under it, and flip the bed (a twin bed?) up on its edge against a wall. You can enjoy the trains longer than someone can enjoy the bed! Just flip the frame and bed down over the foam and let them sleep with the trains under the bed! (this will only work for some beds...and some people) Sorry, can't help you with the track plan, I like a loop - but I think Rob has a great design.
@TrainCzar posted:What software are you using? And how is the learning curve?
SCARM. Pretty east uptake for basic layouts.