Skip to main content

Is there a thorough online tutorial or video on replacing axle bushings? This new to me 2343 has wheels rubbing when it moves forward. Running in reverse it performs excellent.  Everything else looks good as I have servicedE6183F36-FB5F-43E3-B1FD-3679EC8574F6772AEA8C-4506-4E37-BE04-D15CB6524607 the motors and lubed the gearboxes  



I’m new to postwar but I’m willing to invest in the correct tools (part numbers?) to repair these properly.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • E6183F36-FB5F-43E3-B1FD-3679EC8574F6
  • 772AEA8C-4506-4E37-BE04-D15CB6524607
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

That is a very nice looking locomotive.  It would have to have the wheels run off it to wear out those axel bushings.  Where are the wheels rubbing?  Can you move the wheels around when the power truck is disassembled?  The side frames are attached to the truck body with screws and can be adjusted.  I suspect this to be the case.  I have a lot of power units with the horizontal motors and they are darn near indestructible.

Inspect the worm wheel on the axel shaft, I have only had to replace one.



Good luck.

Most operators just cut a plastic washer from a butter tub lid or something similar. Cut it round to about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. Drill a hole in the center slightly larger than the axle. Then cut a v notch so you can slip it over the axel, between the wheel and the frame. Problem solved. You may need to put two on one axel, till it runs smooth. I have done this on a few engines. As far as I'm concerned it has been a permanent repair.

Chris

I've repaired quite a few of these trucks.  They are a pain because the bushing is either worn, or it got pushed in from being loose (unusual) or the wheel was pressed on incorrectly which pushes the bearing into the truck block.  

I usually pull the wheels and axle, press the bushings out so they extend just past the truck block, then reassemble (rarely have to replace them).  The trick is to try and keep the bushing from being pushed back in when the knurl on the axle grabs the bushing and drags it back into the truck block.  Then press the wheels back on without placing any pressure on the truck block.  You must also center the worm gear in the truck block otherwise the gear will rub inside the truck block and wear incorrectly.

If only one wheel is rubbing (evidence by the back of the wheel being shiny), you can just pull the wheel and add one or two 671 shims to the axle.

I have seen several service station parts from Lionel with one wheel pressed on the axle with the bearing already installed on the axle.  The bearing is pressed into the truck frame by pressing on the wheel. This method requires that the bearing be pressed into the truck frame at the same time as the worm wheel is being pressed onto the center of the axle.  Sounds like it takes lots of hands. The bearing on the opposite side would already have been pressed into the truck frame. Then the final wheel is pressed on after the worm wheel has been centered. The advantage of doing it this way is the serrated portion of the axle does not have to be pressed through the bearing bore, which scores it and may move it out of the proper location.

@Jon G posted:

I have been able to use a small sharp chisel to push the bearing out of the truck block and then lock it in place with a drop of superglue.  First thing is to try and hold the bearing and loosen the axle, then try to push it out.  

I have lots of trucks if it can’t be fixed.

Would you sell me assembled front and rear trucks that I can install?

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×