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I’ve started collecting more of the Woodland Scenics plug-and-play items. To avoid using their power banks, is there a way to wire them like a regular building that isn’t plug-and-play? I assume it’s just a matter of cutting off their plastic connector and connecting to the hot and ground wires, but I want to be sure before I start cutting.

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Well, before you go nuts cutting plugs- might be a good time to understand some basic electrical requirements of LEDs, the main one being they need current limiting. That's a huge clue to a key feature the power banks (official name Light Hubs) provide- that you would then have to account for.

Again you never just connect raw LEDs to a power source. Either electronic current limiting or properly sized resistors are used to limit current to prevent instant LED burnout.

Edit- put another way, you are very close to making an expensive and painful mistake of blowing all your LEDs in those buildings. No it's not "just" power and ground.

Last edited by Vernon Barry

Woodland Scenics items have been very confusing regarding power requirements; I had posted a question regarding the tall water tower as I could not get the beacon to light at 12 volts AC. After some research, I found this on their website:

"We recommend using 16-20VAC or 24VDC. Then, I learned that they sell various modules/adaptors that's supposed to make things easier. I don't know if the things have the current limiters/resistors or not...but it stands to reason their recommended voltages are ONLY for their modules/adaptors.

Frankly I am still confused on what to do.

@Paul Kallus posted:

Woodland Scenics items have been very confusing regarding power requirements; I had posted a question regarding the tall water tower as I could not get the beacon to light at 12 volts AC. After some research, I found this on their website:

"We recommend using 16-20VAC or 24VDC. Then, I learned that they sell various modules/adaptors that's supposed to make things easier. I don't know if the things have the current limiters/resistors or not...but it stands to reason their recommended voltages are ONLY for their modules/adaptors.

Frankly I am still confused on what to do.

That is the SOURCE voltage to the LIGHT HUB- NOT the voltage to the LEDS!!!!!

READ THE FAQ https://woodlandscenics.woodla...com/show/item/JP5700

What is the voltage for each Light Hub Port?

Light Hub Ports are designed as current sources, not voltage sources. Each Light Hub Port provides up to 30 milliamps (mA) of current.
LEDs are diodes. Diodes conduct one way, but not the other like an electrical check valve.
LEDs must be current limited. They must either have an active electronic circuit or a resistor at a known source voltage to limit the current to below the maximum of the LED.
If you put several LEDs in series, the voltage across each LED raises the string voltage. Hence why Woodland Scenics says there is NOT a port voltage- because depending on the building and the circuit- the LEDs might be single and parallel loads, or they might be strings of series LEDs- thus a different voltage. The Light hub is a constant current source- so it measures the current in the output and adjusts the voltage of that output to meet and stay at the current (Amps) as set.
Again, this is why the Light hub input is such a high voltage, if there are strings of LEDs in series, that high of a voltage may be required to light the string- however, the light hub is ALSO adjusting the output to limit the current regardless of the voltage of a given LED set.
Last edited by Vernon Barry

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