260E

Ok, guys, a wiring question.  On top of the motor is a thingy that lookes like a govner on a lawnmower engine.  There is a thin strip of metal with a contactor on the end that evidently makes contact with said govner.  The "repairman" cut the wire off and now i cant tell where it goes??

Also why is a bare wire in a clear tube?

This flapper completes the circuit that causes the pendulum to flip. It is then pulled open by the electromagnetic force of the field of the motor. When the engine stops, the flapper makes contact again and when engine is restarted the pendulum switches and reverses direction of the engine. That wire goes to the  solenoid that pulls the plunger for the pendulum.  

Thanks Very Much!!

I have pics and wiring diagrams for this as well. The unit was turned off with the lever to keep the plate away from the contact. 

Hi Guys,

Parts finally came and I have two questions.  The new armature has a gear on it that i will have to trade out with my origional one.  Where does one get a tiny gear puller for jobs like this?

Next,  I have to put in the new pickup,  how do you spread the walls of the motor to slide it in.  I tried a pair of snap ring pliers but could not get it wide enough.

last,  the wires coming off the switch that is in the cab (the smile type slide switch.  one wire apear to go to the coil, but the other was broken and i have no idea where it goes?

Thanks Guys!

On the 260E in back of cab firewall there is a lever which is connected to the reversing switch that has 4 contacts that attaches each wire by a screw.

Without taking mine apart to look at it the most common setup wireing below.

2 of those wires goes to your brushes but must be connected to opposite posts on  the switch.

Another wire goes to field winding.

Your other wire to you roller pickup.

Hope this helps.

Hi Russ,

It looks like you're based in NJ. If you ever need help with a prewar piece let me know, I can recommend a bunch of people in my TCA division for the really tricky stuff and depending on where you live I might be able to help you out. I've done a few repairs on my trains and I have a bunch of books and diagrams if you just need to look something ove.

Thanks,

Sam

Thanks so much Sam,  I sure could use your help!!!  Tonight i'm trying to put in new roller pickups but man it just does not want to fit.  I live in Marlton, but travel around the state at times (im in the Coast Guard).

I get to Cape May all the time, and to princeton just about every weekend.

We could talk if your comfortable with that.

Russ

Captain Russ posted:

Thanks so much Sam,  I sure could use your help!!!  Tonight i'm trying to put in new roller pickups but man it just does not want to fit.  I live in Marlton, but travel around the state at times (im in the Coast Guard).

I get to Cape May all the time, and to princeton just about every weekend.

We could talk if your comfortable with that.

 

Russ

 

Hi Russ,

I'm all the way up north in Morris county but I work down in Piscataway. As far as the rollers, are you saying they are too wide to fit the carrier/holder or are you having issues with the pins?

Thanks,

Sam

The attached pic is what Im trying to install.  Looks as if you have to carefully spread the motor sides. Or i have read that some file the sides down to half their size and bevel on side and jam it in.

Captain Russ posted:

The attached pic is what Im trying to install.  Looks as if you have to carefully spread the motor sides. Or i have read that some file the sides down to half their size and bevel on side and jam it in.

Ok so you're trying to remove the entire plate. I would not file the fiber board down, it won't hold up in my opinion. The only way I know how to replace the entire plate is exactly what you said, spread the frame but that's a big job on an O gauge motor. You need to drill out the rivets and at times pull the wheels slightly to get enough room. This is something I would farm out myself as the problem of pulling the wheels correctly without damaging them can be tricky. If you can, PM me and I can suggest a few people who know this much better than me.

Thanks Sam!   I may try filing it down.  worst case i wasted 10 bucks for the part.  If it slips in i can ad some silicone to hold it in place and then see if it works.

Have you ver pulled a gear off an armature?

I had such a horrible experince with a guy i sent the train too. I may never let it outta my hands again

Captain Russ posted:

Thanks Sam!   I may try filing it down.  worst case i wasted 10 bucks for the part.  If it slips in i can ad some silicone to hold it in place and then see if it works.

Have you ver pulled a gear off an armature?

I had such a horrible experince with a guy i sent the train too. I may never let it outta my hands again

 

 

Ok, it's worth a try as you said it was only $10. I've never pulled the gear but I've installed one. I had a cracked armature gear hat fell off and I pushed a new one on with a drill press.

I'm curious to know who this person is, I know some of these repair shops get bogged down with work or they only do this part time, I'm not making an excuse, I just know how some operate.

I'll tell you by voice in case he watched this site.  He is threatening legal action.  I say bring it on.  Thanks god the credit card company got my paymant back.

Captain Russ posted:

I'll tell you by voice in case he watched this site.  He is threatening legal action.  I say bring it on.  Thanks god the credit card company got my paymant back.

I can't send you a PM to give you my number but my email is eusdesa@yahoo.com

The best thing I have found are these craftsman battery terminal spreaders. With these can gently spread the side plates and then lever the fiber board in with out damage  

Jagrick posted:

The best thing I have found are these craftsman battery terminal spreaders. With these can gently spread the side plates and then lever the fiber board in with out damage  

Interesting idea, any problems with the frame not "flexing" back as tight as it was before?

Not if done carefully, and I use a thin bladed screwdriver to lever out the fiber board with a little bending. Disassembly of motor can be done and there is a place that makes new spacers and the tools to splay them in place (use a hobby hore or arbor press. Armature removal can be difficult and destructive if not careful. 

Thanks so much.  I have pair of snap ring pliers i am going to try.

I need to pick one of these up then, I need to replace the pick-up plate on a City of Denver, I was planning on just brazing a new pick up on to the broken stub (I've done it before, not pretty for a restoration but works great for a runner)

The pick up assembly is removed with the proper frame spreading tool for doing the job. Installation uses the same frame spreading tool. You should swap out the original Lionel Name plate before you install the pick up assembly. You'll need two rivets to do it and Jeff Kane sells them too.  Jeff Kane at The Train Tender has the frame spreader tool. Jeff also sells a pinion puller.

WOW sounds like 2 sales!!!

Thanks very much!!!

Ok guys, got my engine back together,  new armature, brushes, fiber plates on both sides and new pickup plate and rollers.  Man that roller late was hard to get in!!!!!!  it seems like the wheels got much harder to turn after i put the roller late in.  in any case its pretty stiff fully assembled.  

does body and wheels need to be aligned honed?

is there a run in procedure?

should i run a dial gauge on the wheels?

Any thoughts appreciated!!

Captain Russ