3-Rail to Kadee Transition Cars

Although I have not done it (I operate 2-rail equipment exclusively), I think the easiest way would be to fit a regular Atlas 3-rail car with an Atlas "scale" draft-gear box and coupler (compatible with Kadee) on the opposite end from the claw. The draft gear for the Atlas scale-coupler is already designed to fit their cars w/o modification, using two small screws in the bottom of the draft-gear box. The tricky part is opening the draft-gear box to get at the screws without damaging it.

Attaching the Kadee draft gear is a little more work, because one needs to drill new mounting holes for the attachment screws. I have done this with several Atlas cars on my layout, both those with cast metal floors and those with plastic floors.

SD60M posted:

I hope this is not blasphemy to ask...but, surely someone uses a car to transition between a "lobster claw" locomotive and cars equipped with Kadee style, scale couplers.  So, I am asking what type of car do find most realistic or do you prefer to use?  Is it easiest to convert...say...an Atlas O 3-rail car to a scale coupler?

If you have experience with this...I would appreciate your kind advice.

First, have you tried coupling any of your "claw equipped" pieces with the #805 Kadee couplers? I have had quite a few "visiter" locomotives that the "claw electro-coupler" mated nicely with the Kadee 805 equipped cars on our layout.

Second, I would think that a transition car should fit-in with the basic mix of cars in the train you are trying to pull, i.e. probably not a good idea to have a 34 foot 2-bay coal hopper transition car for your intermodal or double stack train. 

 An 805 Kadee will mate with most claw couplers with no issues. They will stay coupled. My more recent MTH engines seem to be the exception. As far as the easiest to convert for a transition car.  The Weaver cars are probably the easiest to add a Kadee. No truck trimming. You will need to add washers to keep the car level after removing the claw coupler. I use an old plastic coupler and just cut off the coupler portion. Downside of this. You now need a stack of shims to get the proper height if you are going to use Kadee's height gauge to keep everything at a standard height. They probably could use some weight and I was never fond of of the coupler and truck sharing the same pivot point at the transition end.

 As far as the best. Pick your poison. The MTH readily except Kadee's and they provide the proper shim. The pain is removing the 3 rail coupler and disassembling the car to access the truck mount screw. Atlas is probably a little easier. The coupler removes easily from the trucks but the tapped coupler mounts in the chassis are drilled for their own coupler. Not a Kadee. Easiest thing is open up the holes of the Kadee a bit and you can alternately tighten each screw and walk the coupler in place. One Micromark shim is usually needed. Not a lot of experience with Lionel. Basically you trim the truck out with a Dremel to remove the stock coupler. The recent issues have mounting pads and the older versions you either need to make up mounts or purchase some from Shapeways.

 B Smith makes a good point on using a stock Atlas 2 rail coupler. The most recent issue is a Kadee lookalike. In fact I've been using them on the front of my steamers for double heading.  The only problem I see. As mentioned the Atlas screws are hidden inside the coupler box. When doing it this way you will need to add a shim to mate with your other cars. The difference lies in the 3 rail wheel sets which make the car ride slightly higher. The screws aren't designed for a shim as they are just long enough to do the job. You could probably come up with a screw that will work from Microfasteners. They are 2mm. I still think drilling out the Kadee box is the easiest. Yes it sticks out slightly. You just have to remember you have an oversized claw at the other end.

 I'd try the 805 as Hot Water mentioned. With the right engine you might not need a transition car.

I did one Weaver head end express car.   A B&O wagon top express.  I have a bunch of head end cars but they are all 2 rail.   Have 2 passenger trains.   GGD 21" train has Kadees but I never got around to changing The K-Line 4-6-2 and18" cars.   Only have 3 engines that have claws left.   All the rest have Kadees.  So this is my transition car between the claws and Kadees.   Simple enough to do.  

Thanks for your responses....all good ones...and I do have some of those claws that will work with Kadee 805s.  I find the claws most often will not work with my Atlas O scale couplers...those that come on the cars.  Maybe it is my poor track work or some other outside force...be I have a difficult time getting them to couple...and, often, they won't stay coupled.  I am sure every Atlas O car may not be that way...but, the ones I have tried seem to be.

Again...thanks...I think this matter may be closed.

SD60M posted:

Thanks for your responses....all good ones...and I do have some of those claws that will work with Kadee 805s.  I find the claws most often will not work with my Atlas O scale couplers...those that come on the cars.

Exactly. Another reason why I have discarded all my Atlas couplers!

  Maybe it is my poor track work or some other outside force...be I have a difficult time getting them to couple...and, often, they won't stay coupled. 

Nope, probably NOT your track. That is typical of the Atlas coupler. 

I am sure every Atlas O car may not be that way...but, the ones I have tried seem to be.

In my opinion, every Atlas O car/coupler arrangement IS that way, and the reason that I have up-graded all the Atlas O cars I have, to Kadee #805 or the newer #740.

Again...thanks...I think this matter may be closed.

 

I use an MTH REA express car, so I can use it in both freight and passenger trains. 

There’s a lot of good reasons to make one, and not a lot of reassigns not to. For example, at the show in November, I let one of my friends use my power to pull his train.  Another one is I haven’t converted any passenger cars yet.

Most of all, there’s no chance of a coupler mismatch opening. 

Thanks!

-Mario

I use a CNJ Atlas cast hopper as a transition car.  Since it is so heavy I want it closer to the front of the train.  It was an easy conversion to remove the 3 rail coupler and body mount a Kadee #805 with a few shims.  

Found this baggage car on my "to do" shelf.   K-line 18" that I re-painted.   Used a piece of brass rectangular tubing to extend the Kadee coupler.   Cut the brass tube to length which is probably the hardest part.  Notched one end for the coupler shank.   Drilled small hole for screw to hold the Kadee coupler in the tube.   Drilled a hole in the tube for the truck coupler T bar mount.   Brass tubes soldered to align with the T bar.  

I'll file that away for future use!