Hi I just got this train and a 1033 trans former what voltage range should it b run at ?ty
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16-20v AC
Well, the 1033 only goes up to 16V max. The good news is that if the loco is clean, properly lubricated and in good mechanical condition, it should run plenty fast at 16 volts. If you put a lot of stiff-rolling postwar cars (or lighted passenger cars) behind it, then you might need more than 16 volts to get it moving. An LW or other, bigger transformer would be better for that job.
Ty guys!
The 1033 may get warm enough to trip the breaker after a while too. Cleaning loco of brush dust etc. & lube can help tons. (look for an indepth thread or three) . Wire; 14g/12g. Larger track, larger wire.
If you spend on more power, buy all you can. Few folks ever complain they should have bought less power, only they should have bought bigger 
.
The LW is a fav for me too. Small, coolest lighted dial, most poweful single train unit. A bit more delicate than the KW VW ZW, wiper vs rollers on the windings, so can be worn out easier too.
The KW (2 trains), VW, ZW (4 trains) are the more servicable, high watt, large handle gems. Any one handle can output the max, and/or the max (amp) is split among 2+ throttles. Using these transformers, that engine will be a beast.
Prewar offers some nice ones too with 1033 style handles or small/med knobs.(RW,V,Z etc) Im not a fan of the SW or TW (tw rating is very misleading as it has two coils, but one coil doesnt go to the track at all. Great for steadier voltages when using accessories, but thats about it.)
Great site for reference of postwar era trains.
http://www.tandem-associates.c...oneltransformers.htm
Breakdown, Olsen's library is a better place for the technical info. The best would a Greensburgs manual or similar.
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/736.htm
To go with new age power, you'll need some extra output there as new stuff may see a normal post war motor's high amp peaks as a short (under heavy draw, old motors have high amp draw that only last fractions of a second; new electronic breakers act on this too fast sometimes. The new style higher amp output units handle it better than new small ones. (old stuff uses thermal breakers, more tolerant as the temp. of short peaks is sort of averaged vs being near instant on an overdraw.)
If you're capable with tools, etc. a servicable unit isn't a bad idea. Rollers are pretty easy. (check windings. Sawing, nicks & wear mean loss of capability.)
If not inclined to dyi, go for the warranty rebuilds. (Always look inside at what you actually get though )
