A couple of DCS Questions

The best method is to isolate center rail blocks by the number of track joints and not feet. 10 to 12 joints is recommended in Barry's book. The wires do not need to be the same length.The 1 3/8" sections work well for isolating center rail blocks with Fastrack if you can work them in at the right place.

J.R.,

1. Do the center rail for each block have to be isolated like the companion book recommends?

Yes, absolutely, for consistently strong DCS signal and to avoid data packet "collisions".

2. Do the wires running from the terminal boards to the track all have to be the same length (for example, if the block that is  furthest away from the terminal board is 20 ft, do all the wires running from the terminal board to the blocks have to be 20 ft even though some of them are less then 20 ft away)?  I've read online that with TIU Rev. L, you don't have to have all the wires the same length but I wanted to ask to be sure.

This is an "urban myth" that has been circulating since the beginning of DCS and is absolutely not true. Further, it's not true when using any TIU, Rev. L or earlier.

Wire runs can be any length at all and may all be completely different lengths on a layout. Additionally, a pair of wires, Hot and Common, may have different lengths, as well.

3. Is it OK to make each block approximately 20 ft long with Fastrack?  I know Fastrack doesn't have the best record for establishing good connections.

As mentioned above, the maximum track block length is a factor of the number of individual track pieces that make up the block. An optimum block length is 10-12 track pieces, regardless of the length of the individual pieces.

This and a whole lot more about DCS is all in MTH’s “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

This and a whole lot more about DCS WiFi is all in MTH’s “The DCS WiFi Companion 1st Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store! Get the free TMCC & Legacy Addendum here!

The reason that each 10-12 section block is isolated is so that the DCS signals traveling down the center rail will not interfere with each other.

Feed wire lengths should not matter BUT, if one isolated block is acting strangely I would suggest that changing the length of that set of feed wires might help.  There are probably a few lengths that would not work as well as most.  Worth trying if all else fails...

JROC747, if you will be crimping terminal connectors to your wiring, after you strip the wire end, flatten out the strands and take a single edge razor and give a little scrape to the copper on both sides before you twist the strands together to apply the connector. Some wire coating types will leave a thin transparent film on the wire from the coating process that is not conductive. This will help ensure a good connection in the crimp.  

J.R.,

   It's another serious Myth that FasTrack has poor connections that degrade signal strength, like any other Track just make sure the connecting pins are placed correctly while building and test while you build.  I grant you the newer FT is not made with the same QC as the 1st and 2nd Generation FasTack, if you get some bad pieces of FT, return them to where you purchased them, and get them exchanged.  If you possibly can pick up as much of the older 1st Generation FasTrack with the Black Center rail, its was made perfectly and seems to never have any problems.  If I see this 1st generation FasTrack here in the Pittsburgh, Pa area at the Train shows, I usually purchase it.  Most times at a great price.   

The wire length myth was dispelled long ago, however using good Multi Strand wire IMO is seriously important engineering for good DCS signal on a longevity basis.

As we found out long ago, it's not the length of Track that degrades DCS signal, it's definitely Track Joins.  I use as many long sections of FasTrack on my layouts as possible.  In fact our new over head layout has as many as I could engineer into it.  Unfortunately now these 3' sections have become expensive, glad I never sold any of my 2nd generation stuff as I built different layouts and had them left over from time to time.

Never worry about switches,  we do not even test for signal strength any more around them.  Just make sure they function properly with your Legacy HHRC and everything works out perfectly, as far as actual running.  Test every FTCC Switch as you build however.

If you plan to run Tin Plate Trains or lots of Steam Engines on your FT, engineering your layout with nothing less than 048 FTCC Switches for the sidings and 060's for the main line will eliminate most running problems thru out your FT layout.  Remember however there are engines that run on only 072 and larger curves.  Engineer for these from the get go, if you have these big engines.

If you plan on running original Tin Plate, the Z4k Transformer with it's Side Receiver Capability and the DCS TR function, will run your old Tin Plate Trains smoother than you can actually imagine possible, just incredible engineering control for original Tin and other post war Conventional's also.

Lots to learn about building a new layout, I highly recommend Barry's DCS O gauge companion, and the OGR Video Guide to DCS.  

Further if you need help and have questions, ask them here on the OGR we have some of the most knowledgeable/experienced people in the hobby right here and they are nice enough to give advise on anything in our hobby.

PCRR/Dave

I just wanted to thank everyone for their responses to my questions.  I'm glad about the wire length myth having to be all the same to be not true because it will make wiring my layout easier.  I won't have to measure each wire so that it is the same length.  I'm glad I mentioned block length too because I always thought the length was measured in feet, not number of track sections in the block which makes more sense. 

Dave, just to let you know, the minimum radius curve on my layout is 072 except for one siding that will have 048 and I won't need to run my big engines on that.  I have a Lionel Legacy 844 UP fef 3 steam engine and a Legacy Centipede that requires a minimum of 072.  

I appreciate all your extensive answers!  This is great place to get answers to any question you might have because there is always someone who knows the answer or experienced and figured out the same problem.