I wasn't sure where to place this post as it could apply to any number of scratch building projects. Over in the "Real Trains" forum, we got into a discussion on what could be generally called scratch building a McKeen Car as well as my own ongoing project of a traction freight motor. One of the questions that came up from yours truly came from some of the materials I was using, which are white metal end and body parts from two different sources, along with brass side frames, etc. One suggestion was to use a combination of CA and epoxy but I found that while it was difficult enough to clamp these pieces at a perfect right angle, this mixture racked, or skewed the end and body parts when cured fully. These fairly heavy parts could not be brazed. So..I found an epoxy meant for gluing metal to metal surfaces that produces a very strong bond and is two part, black in color and is usable for roughly five minutes. It goes under the name of JB Kwik or JB Weld and I wanted to pass this along should it prove a solution to tricky metal to metal adhesion...the matched surfaces to be glued had only a 1/8 thickness and after curing these pieces were locked together as tight as a drum.
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I found an epoxy meant for gluing metal to metal surfaces that produces a very strong bond and is two part, black in color and is usable for roughly five minutes. It goes under the name of JB Kwik or JB Weld and I wanted to pass this along should it prove a solution to tricky metal to metal adhesion...the matched surfaces to be glued had only a 1/8 thickness and after curing these pieces were locked together as tight as a drum.
yes it's good stuff but don't try to jb weld Korber model building together. I found it doesn't hold to well- even if the surface is roughed up.
Interesting. I have read about JB Weld on other US based groups, and, having just checked, find that it is available here in the UK. However, there seem to be quite a few alternatives, with prices to match. Do you guys use any particular flavour of JB Weld?
Thanks, Graeme
Graeme
I cant speak for other's experience but I tried to twist the body from the ends and got nowhere and the reason I went to this extreme was my bad experience with straight epoxy that could not take torsion which was critical before I added the floor and roof. What I used is "J-B Kwik" made under the brand name of JB Weld.out of Sulphur Springs Texas...U.S
PRR
Aren't Korber plastic?, then it makes sense it didn't work..
Bruce
I prefer J-B Kwik for most applications. Regular J-B Weld dries slowly and will often "slump" or run during the drying process. It is stronger, but the Kwik version is plenty strong for most purposes and is less prone to run.
... but don't try to jb weld Korber model building together. I found it doesn't hold to well- even if the surface is roughed up.
are you talking about Korber plastic?
have to say that although i've never had the use for it, if i ever did have to join metal to metal with only a bonding adhesive, i certainly would try J-B first if only on it's immense reputation. i rarely hear of (or remember) any other brands in years of reading forum notes.
Graeme
I cant speak for other's experience but I tried to twist the body from the ends and got nowhere and the reason I went to this extreme was my bad experience with straight epoxy that could not take torsion which was critical before I added the floor and roof. What I used is "J-B Kwik" made under the brand name of JB Weld.out of Sulphur Springs Texas...U.S
Thanks Bruce. There is a huge range of JB Weld product here in the UK, and following your comments, I will go for Kwik, and give it a try.
Cheers, Graeme
I have used JB on various repairs, the toughest being a white metal drawer pull that I could not match anywhere. A third hand jig is helpful to keep the parts aligned. I second the JB Kwik as the Weld needs a lot of time to cure. I place it in the joint and around it.
Once it is set you can work it like metal to shape or sand.