Skip to main content

Was not aware of these beautiful S scale locomotives Lionel produced earlier from 10-15 years ago. I bought the 4501 Southern mikado last summer as I was so impressed with the level of detail and I also have the MTH PS3 Premier version.  They look good displayed together. (that's the O scale model below in the corner the photo)  

These 1st two below are very impressive. Think I need to get some of that track if for nothing else a good display.

Nickel Plate BerkshireIMG_1319IMG_6235

Last edited by c.sam
@laming posted:

Toying with the idea of picking up a stick of .138" or .148" track and watching for a decent 0-8-0 to purchase to see what type of running qualities can be had.



@laming posted:


AF's large knuckles are a bit of a turn off, but I guess I could convert to Kadee 802's. (802's are a bit large for true S scale, but far smaller than the AF knuckles.)



Andre, I have a 342DC 0-8-0 that I run along side my can motor converted Flyer engine.  I can run it almost as slow as the others... slow enough for gentle coupling.  Flyer Knuckles do not do gentle coupling, you really have to ram the cars together.  That one of the reasons I prefer Flyer link and Kadee #5s.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Flyer 0-8-0

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Flyer 0-8-0
@Rayin"S" posted:

<snip> ....Andre, you are at a place where many of us have been, maybe not this late in the game...<end snip>

Well, it's only exploration and knowledge seeking at this point.

I'm still very pleased with my HO layout that resides in a dedicated 16' x 20' out building with heat/AC.

At the risk of transgression, here's a picture of the small town of "Ozarka" snapped on my freelanced HO "Kansas City & Gulf: Ozark Subdivision" layout.

Ozarka plays host to a small engine house and a small three track yard. The Ozarka Switcher performs the following work at Ozarka: Switches the Ozarka customer car spots, builds/breaks down the "Sweetgum Turn" and "Piney Turn", as well as provides helper service as needed. Fairly busy place and fun to switch.

You're looking at the power for the Ozarka Switcher (the RS-3) and power for the Sweetgum Turn and Piney Turn. (The GP7's.)

122323_5

I share the above so it can be better understood that as long as dexterity and eyesight permit, I'll will continue to model my KC&G theme in HO.

IF that changes, then I will seriously looking into S Hi-Rail via some test purchases.

Until then, the above it will be!

Andre

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 122323_5

I share the above so it can be better understood that as long as dexterity and eyesight permit, I'll will continue to model my KC&G theme in HO.

IF that changes, then I will seriously looking into S Hi-Rail via some test purchases.

Until then, the above it will be!

Andre

And that is as it should be, have fun.

Ray

I am really enjoying this thread.

As a kid, I had Lionel post-war trains. I loved them (and still do!). However, a friend in the neighborhood had an AF passenger set, and I had to admit that those AF trains looked even better than my Lionel trains. If there had been an AF dealer in my area in my teen years, I could definitely have seen myself switching over to AF.

Last edited by Joe Connor
@Joe Connor posted:

I am really enjoying this thread.

As a kid, I had Lionel post-war trains. I loved them (and still do!). However, a friend in the neighborhood had an AF passenger set, and I had to admit that those AF trains looked even better than my Lionel trains. If there had been an AF dealer in my area in my teen years, I could definitely have seen myself switching over to AF.

It's not too late...

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

The 21160 is a very basic engine. No headlight, no smoke, no reverse unit. There is a slide switch on the back of the cab to select forward or reverse. When the 21160 runs, it runs really well.

Since the motor hums that means there is electrical continuity from the track, through the tender, through the slide switch and through both the armature and field, That leaves two possibilities, worn brushes/bad springs, or binding. Try rotating the motor with your finger. If the armature rotates freely there is no binding. If the armature does not rotate look for the cause of binding. If no binding then it likely needs new brushes.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×