airbrush paint for brass steam

You might contact the folks that bought out Scalecoat from Weaver.

Minuteman Scale Models

978-302-4524 

info@minutemanscalemodels.com

The key is Works Well on Brass. I'm far fom a pro painter. I think I've tried them all a far as paints. Always preferred Floquil for consistent results. I am a fan of Tru Color. Have done numerous weathering jobs with it. Sprays very well and adheres well to previously painted surfaces. I feel it falls short of adhering to unprimed metal or brass.

 I've been using Scale Coat 1 of late with results much like I use to get with Floquil. The only downside is the drying time. Takes a few days. I purchased it from internettrains.com

I really like the engine black. Not a lot of gloss. So not sure how it would take decals. Hopefully there wasn't a frantic run to buy every last bottle when Weaver announced it was closing.

Some folks bake it.  But, some also just exercise patience,

Ron,

For primer, try a 'metal etching' type found in quality auto stores.  Most come in a spray can.  May be able to find it in 'normal' smaller quantities that require thinner.  If able, spray through your airbrush as usual.  The spray can type should be thin enough to airbrush...I used to just spray into the color cup and shoot away, directly from the spray can.

The metal etch primer will give an excellent 'tooth' for the paint to adhere.  About any kind of paint would seem to do for color.

Also, I will bake the paint when I get to that stage with my project.  It worked great on old John Deere farm toys I used to restore.

I've used the Testor's clear and flat on projects-acrylic and laq type.  Great results with both.  

I use/prefer "Future Floor Wax" for a smooth gloss finish-decals love it.  With a little setting solution, you'll never see any film after dull clear is applied.  Spray it 'full strength' for the bottle.

As for Scale Coat, I remember reading in one of the Weaver threads someone mentioned all the paint was sold out.  Some dealers may have some left, but Weaver itself was said to be out of stock.

I painted a couple of brass water columns a while back. Used Scalecoat and figured if an oven could bake the paint a heat gun from a safe distance on low could do the same. Nothing happened to the paint and it did dry fast. The spout was held to the column with some thread that I guess was simulating some sort of cable going to a counterweight. What I saved in drying time was made up in time spent in replacing the thread that went up in smoke.

As far as primer. I believe the auto etching primer mentioned is made by SEM. Sold in most shops that supply auto body supplies. Not a cheap rattle can but it works.

 I had a bad experience painting side rods on a steamer using Tru Color. A lot might have been my fault as far as prep work. I wiped them down but left them in place and painted them with the engine running on a roller base. Looked good but the paint didn't adhere well. Came off in sheets. I now use Neo Lube. Was tempted to try Scalecoat on my last project but stuck with the Neo Lube. 

Guys,

I really appreciate the responses. I ordered scalcoat from Minute man modelers.

What should I use as a thinner for airbrushing. Aaron I'll try the floor wax.

Ron H

I think you'll like the floor wax.  I've had great results with it.  Literally built hundreds of models and works great every time.

Stay with the thinner for the paint line.  In other words, many paint brands offer their own thinners...Proven to work, make it easy on yourself.

I've never used Scale Coat, so I'm not sure what is offered.

Can't wait to see it finished.